Hey everyone my first post here. I have a 2019 GT2 AWD. I purchased the car about 2 years ago now. I have aftermarket staggered 19x8 and 19x10 rears. tires are 245/35R19 front & 285/30R19 rear. Old tires were factory size stretched to the aftermarket wheel. I didn't have any wobble to the car on those old tires. Now I have a head scratcher of a problem. I have the most wobble in the steering wheel at 65+ as well as a slight wobble in my butt. I took it back to the shop (who is a buddy of mine) we put the wheels on 3 different balance machines. Took it for a drive and the wobble was the same. Went back to the shop recalibrated the machines and all the wheels are perfectly balanced. Then we tried all different levels of PSI on front and rear. We are going to check wheel bearings and alignment tomorrow. I doubt this will bare any fruit. However it will help with the process of elimination. Before anyone asks yes these tires are within the 1% overall diameter required for awd. The line of roll is within 1/8. We are have hit a wall with this one. Didn't do it when i dropped it off with the old tires. It wasn't driven prior to me picking it up. I haven't hit anything. The wheels are all straight with the exception of one has like maybe a 1/32 slight wobble to it but not enough to cause this. I will take some pics tomorrow and post them up so you can see the wheels. Also i will post my findings tomorrow. If you guys have any ideas please let me know. Also if anyone was wondering i just rolled 30k on the odometer. Thanks ahead of time for any help!
Wheel Wobble (Not the Usual)
- Thread starter bcable
- Start date
Volfy
1000 Posts Club!
What are the weight and offset of those aftermarket 19x10s?
Even a slight runout will cause a significant imbalance at freeway speeds. The G forces those wheels experience at 65+mph are tremendous. The larger diameter the wheel, and the farther out it sits from the wheel hub, the more stress it puts on the wheel bearing support.
Even a slight runout will cause a significant imbalance at freeway speeds. The G forces those wheels experience at 65+mph are tremendous. The larger diameter the wheel, and the farther out it sits from the wheel hub, the more stress it puts on the wheel bearing support.
Snicklefritz
Sustaining Member +
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2022
- Messages
- 2,868
- Reaction score
- 1,310
- Points
- 118
1/32 is not insignificant at speed. combined with other factors like volfy said can produce what you describe. if one of the tires is slightly flawed too that can add in. I went for most of a year with an annoying vibration that started noticeable at just under 80 mph. it didn't increase in amount but did in repetition up past 100 so it felt safe to drive at those speeds just annoying. when I got the wheel straightened everything was smooth as silk.
______________________________
vipeboy2000
1000 Posts Club!
I'm assuming you got new tires? what tires are they?? (not that it matters much "usually" less chance of getting a defective tire from a name brand..) new tires can come out of round/have hot spots that are just defective... I've known people that got new tires and it turned out to be a bad new tire..
I am having the exact same issue after putting aftermarket wheels and tires on my '23 GT2 AWD. Went with Stance SF03 and Michelin AS4's in 19x8.5 front with 225/40 rubber and 19x9.5 rear with 265/35 rubber. Had them re-balanced (road force) four times now. The first couple weren't balanced correctly (so it was really wonky). But everything is perfectly balanced now and have a slight (but very annoying) wheel shake at 70+ that I can also feel throught the seat.
I wonder if the steering being so light on these cars is making anything slightly different than factory diameter magnify imbalance. I don't know the offset, so could also be related to that. At this point I am probably going to work with the shop to go back to factory wheel and tire size because it's intolerable on long highway cruises. Sad because it looks so good and sticks like glue in the corners with the wider setup.
I wonder if the steering being so light on these cars is making anything slightly different than factory diameter magnify imbalance. I don't know the offset, so could also be related to that. At this point I am probably going to work with the shop to go back to factory wheel and tire size because it's intolerable on long highway cruises. Sad because it looks so good and sticks like glue in the corners with the wider setup.
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
GT Elite
Active Member
A couple of thoughts. Are you running wheel spacers? Could there be a lug nut washer between the hub and wheel? Don’t ask why I’m asking this one! Been there, done that…one new wheel later!
Volfy
1000 Posts Club!
For an AWD, it's defensively not good to run mismatched rolling diameter front/rear tires. Even if that slight difference you have is not the cause of your problem, or even the primary cause, it's not good for the AWD drivetrain in the long run.
Now then, is the shaking on the front axle or the rear? Couldn't be sure from your description. If it is the front, it will most likely affect your steering wheel. If it's the rear, then the steering wheel wouldn't shake, but you'll likely feel/hear it through the chassis.
Secondly, is the shaking frequency directly proportional to the car speed? Or is it only felt when the car gets up past a certain speed range?
Thirdly, does it get worse when you turn the car?
Lastly, have somebody else drive the car, while you move to various positions in the cabin to see if you can isolate the vibration to a particular corner.
Now then, is the shaking on the front axle or the rear? Couldn't be sure from your description. If it is the front, it will most likely affect your steering wheel. If it's the rear, then the steering wheel wouldn't shake, but you'll likely feel/hear it through the chassis.
Secondly, is the shaking frequency directly proportional to the car speed? Or is it only felt when the car gets up past a certain speed range?
Thirdly, does it get worse when you turn the car?
Lastly, have somebody else drive the car, while you move to various positions in the cabin to see if you can isolate the vibration to a particular corner.
Volfy
1000 Posts Club!
If it improves when turning, then it's probably not the F/R rolling diameter mismatch causing AWD heartburn. That typically gets worse when turning. The caveat about potential problems long term still stands though.
Sound like it's a tire thing, most likely the front. What brand/model tires are these? I wouldn't rule out a tire defect of some kind that could cause the tire not to be perfectly round. It might still balances out okay, but could cause vibration at speed.
Have you gotten alignment done lately? Your new wheels/tires don't sound too wild, so it's probably not necessary, but it's never a bad idea, especially if you are having issues. Try swapping the front wheels left to right, to see if the car reacts differently.
BTW, you NEED to find out the offset. Even if they are not causing your immediate problem, it is an absolute MUST KNOW when shopping for aftermarket wheels.
Sound like it's a tire thing, most likely the front. What brand/model tires are these? I wouldn't rule out a tire defect of some kind that could cause the tire not to be perfectly round. It might still balances out okay, but could cause vibration at speed.
Have you gotten alignment done lately? Your new wheels/tires don't sound too wild, so it's probably not necessary, but it's never a bad idea, especially if you are having issues. Try swapping the front wheels left to right, to see if the car reacts differently.
BTW, you NEED to find out the offset. Even if they are not causing your immediate problem, it is an absolute MUST KNOW when shopping for aftermarket wheels.
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Good points. They are Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4's. So should have good quality control. But maybe one isn't quite round. Any way to test for that?
Shop said they checked alignment and all was in spec. I think wheel offset is +35. They were a custom order so will have to double check with the shop.
Shop said they checked alignment and all was in spec. I think wheel offset is +35. They were a custom order so will have to double check with the shop.
Snowwhite
Sustaining Member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2020
- Messages
- 1,002
- Reaction score
- 587
- Points
- 118
even with stock tires (and wheels) I had a shake at 70ish that balancing wouldn't take away. ended up replacing with new rubber (bigger by 10mm front and rear than stock) and all is fine now.
it is possible you have bad tires, even if they are new. you might want to try having the shop deflate them, rotate them 1/2 turn on the wheel, and rebalance. the less weights they require for balancing, the better the roll will be.
it is possible you have bad tires, even if they are new. you might want to try having the shop deflate them, rotate them 1/2 turn on the wheel, and rebalance. the less weights they require for balancing, the better the roll will be.
Finally solved. Not tires and not wheels. After fourth re-balance, finally improved. And then, more interestingly, I switched to premium McGard spline lugs with cone bearings instead of the cheapo lugs the shop used, hand changed, hand torqued, and now it's better than ever. Don't skimp on lugs! Just thought would pass that along.
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
D.J.
2500 Posts Club!
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2018
- Messages
- 3,252
- Reaction score
- 1,482
- Points
- 118
- Location
- Toronto, Ontario, Canada
D.J.
2500 Posts Club!
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2018
- Messages
- 3,252
- Reaction score
- 1,482
- Points
- 118
- Location
- Toronto, Ontario, Canada
The lugs should not be replied upon to keep the wheel centered..
Any brand of lug nuts, should not cause or cure a "wobble".
I would be inspecting the plastic centering rings.
