3.3TT Weird Start-up this morning

[Daeric23]

Has anyone experienced this? I’ve noticed it’s happened 2 or 3 times now (weeks apart, not daily).

When I first crank the car I noticed it starts normal but it immediately starts as if the car was already warm (lower rpm’s), and then I wouldn’t say it’s a rough idle but feels different. Then after a few seconds it’s like the car recognizes it’s a cold-start so it climbs a couple hundred rpm to what a normal cold start is (1200-1300 whatever it normally is), and then per usual after maybe 20 seconds or 30, the rpm’s drop to morning operating level. Then I’ll take off and go in reverse.

Is this signs of spark plugs/Coils going out? I’m at 33k, which never been changed.

I hope I explained this properly

 

[Plakchup]

You ever tried unplugging the battery, let it sit for 30 mins to reset the ECU?! I did that just recently and it just really helped after my exhaust mods I did in general, felt the car drive much smoother overall.

Spark plugs are legit concern too as the typical symptom of bad spark plugs are rough idle/difficult starting engine . Only way to find out is by pulling them.

 

[Daeric23]

@Plakchup I will try unplugging the battery. Since I last posted in this forum, it hasn’t happened again so it’s very odd that it happens every once in a while

 

[Plakchup]

Well these cars can be an interesting experience that's for sure.

I am putting back my stock bov after I think I've had enough of the hks bov as good as they sound, I don't think our cars wastegate is a fan of it. Need to have that recirculating setup back to the k&n air intakes so tomorrow I am putting back the stock setup. Will probably hold on to the hks bov for future whatever that means. Most I've read recommend sticking to the stock bov to reduce chances of overboost.

But yeah give that battery step a try to reset. At least worth a shot!

 

[Wolfbrother]

I was having trouble with weird idle RPMs and rough idle/stuttering, and though they haven't gone away entirely, they did get significantly better after removing the PCV valve and cleaning it out with some throttle body and air intake cleaner (then blowing it clean with air) and reinstalling it. Next things I need to try are trans fluid change (b/c it's missing shifts occasionally too), oil change, and checking the spark plugs.

 

[StingerRwd]

@Plakchup I will try unplugging the battery. Since I last posted in this forum, it hasn’t happened again so it’s very odd that it happens every once in a while

the car cranked how is unplugging a battery going to resolve the idle issue. To check the harness to the coil packs try fiddling and moving it to see if the situation changes so if it does you know it is your harness.

One thing to check also when you start up the car give the pedal a double tap and if idle better you might have a faulty ETC or something with the pedal.

Check your plugs and gaps. A bad injector destroys a plug and a plug can destroy an injector if faulty. Check fuel rail pressure worst case scenario is that the pressure sensor is making the the ecu to sense voltage while it’s faulty. So get the injectors out and ultrasonic clean them.

Check the if hpfp if it was acting out.

Check your map sensors.

Check your intake if it was clogged.

Check also if your alternator belt is not ok.

The list goes on
So. A lot of stuff to check more to this issue.

Any mechanic can check this in 1 day.

But I guess idles are usually fuel or plug related

 

[Deleted member 11966]

This one off could be due to a faulty sensor reading. Plugs would cause WOT pulls to feel rough first and if they get really bad, then you are looking at misfire codes and/or rough idling.
Keep an eye on it as the ECU probably got a bad data from some sensor (MAP or MAF would be my first suspects) sensor(s) and then the data from the sensors either recovered and the ecu went back to normal.

As StingerRwd said, I'd check pretty much every clip on in the engine bay to make sure nothing got loose, check all sensors, spark plugs and even the throttle body clips.

Battery resets on many modern cars don't do much, reason being is, some modern cars have small batteries either next to the ecu or even part of the ecu itself, though I think the Stinger doesn't have additional battery.

 

[StingerRwd]

Yup thanks just listen to the tip of the exhaust at idle too