Underhood battery voltage

JSolo

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After having the car on a battery tender for about a week, then driving it over 90 min (~70 miles), voltage under the hood is ~12.2 V on the volt meter. I know there would be some drop between the trunk and underhood test points, but this seems a lot. Car cranks and starts no problem.

What kind of voltages are others seeing at this test point (and under what conditions). Specifically these 2 points.


 
Each and every battery of the same brand and type is different. It is a chemical box. Each cell inside the battery (of cells), is a different voltage even on charge. One could be 2.17 volts. One could be 2.23 volts. All add up to the final voltage across six cells.

On charge which can be a float charge, an equalise charge or a boost charge the battery will be charging at a higher voltage than it's nominal charge which is 12 volts.

Float voltage tends to be 2.18 to 2.25 volts per cell. Equalise 2.4 volts per cell to try and equalise all the individual cells. Boost 2.65 voltss per cells times 6 cells.

A float charge keeps a battery charged enough to restore its amphours and to overcome its internal resistance to stop it discharging when there is no load applied.

Rarely do you boost a car battery nowadays because it is sealed. Boosting or a "gas" charging produces hydrogen gas. and is only done in an open cell "flooded" battery. It is called flooded because the lead plates are flooded in sloshing sulphuric acid.

Once you remove a charge the battery collapses quite quickly to its nominal charge. This could be in minutes depending on the battery. Typically it should sit somewhere above 12 volts. 12.8, 12.6, 12.2.........if it is "open circuit" it will be higher but your car always has something connected to the battery so it will start to discharge as soon as you remove any charging device whether that be a charger or alternator. (Note they call it an alternator but is is actually a DC Generator......). an alternator produces "AC" as do all rotating devices but the AC is "rectified" to DC from a car alternator.....whereas the AC from an alternator connected to a big diesel alternator is left as AC......but then we call it a Diesel Generator even though it produces AC not DC....(very confusing). It's correct name is a Diesel Alternator not a Diesel Generator.........

A battery does most of its work from it's nominal charge to its end voltage. End voltage is the point where your components can no longer work. For example, your end voltage for a starter motor might be 10.8 volts, then the starter motor won't turn any more. That would be 1.8 volts per cell times six. So the battery does all its work between 12 volts and 10,8 volts.

If you are discharging your headlights for example the end voltage could be "zero" because the headlights keep getting dimmer and dimmer over hours until the battery is down to a couple of volts.

As you say it is starting OK.....nothing to worry about.
 
Right, what's the concern here? Are you getting a different reading at that test point than on the battery - at the same time under the same conditions?
12.2 resting voltage for a tired battery is just fine. You should see something in the 13.5 to 14.5 range at that point (and at the battery) when the engine is running.
The battery tender might even be giving the battery 12.2 V depending on the specific charger. Some of them have quite a bit of circuitry and will do a slow charge until some voltage/current condition is reached then let the battery rest (no charging). They'll monitor the battery and kick back into charging if the resting voltage goes below a threshold. It's not just voltage/current capped.
 
I was expecting to see a higher than 12.2V at that test point.
12.2 is on the low side, about 60-70% charged. But it also seems common for Stingers to sit in the 12.2-12.4 range rather than the full 12.65.

02-Loaded-Battery-Voltage-vs.-SOC-AGM-1434234892.webp

Many modern cars have variable charging, so I suspect the Stinger employs some kind of "smart logic" to increase either battery longevity or perhaps mileage. But it also seems to affect ISG and Coasting mode.

In my case resting voltage never caused failure to start (or even slow cranking), but Coasting (in Eco or Smart-Eco) stopped activating. Topping it off with a charger brought it back.

Your car will draw more current when "awake" (off but unlocked), at least for a time. I stopped leaving mine unlocked in my garage when I topped the battery off.


I have my ISG disabled, but here's a thread with similar conclusions:
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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