Turns out I've been racing my Stinger with a cold engine all this time

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For this half a year I've owned my Stinger I've thought I am correctly following the guidance "do not race the car with a cold engine" correctly. I used to be gentle with the throttle until the analog coolant temp gauge in the dashboard stabilizes at 85 C (185 F) which takes about 2 miles of driving which is like 5 mins in a city. And after that I usually switched to sport mode and hit RPMs of 5K when I felt like it.

But I just recently discovered the digital gauges (oil temp, torque, boost pressure) and realized that by the time coolant temp is 85 C, the oil temp is only 55 C (131 F).

So how bad is it?
 
Where are you getting the oil temp from?

There have been many debates about ideal warmup procedure, but I think most people would agree that coolant temp is more of a proxy/indicator, that oil temp is the most critical measure, and that other things like the transmission are also important and may lag.

So 131 is probably a bit low to be hammering it, and your transmission/transfer case/diff fluids probably aren't up to their operating temps quite yet, but at the same time modern lubricants are pretty robust and it's not like you're flooring it ice cold. Maybe give it 10 minutes of driving around instead of 5.
 
I get the oil temp from one of the gauges which appears when you press the top left button on the right side of the steering wheel. The one with an icon of 2 paper sheets on it - press it a few times until it cycles to the gauges view.

Funny thing. Was searching Stinger's user manual about engine temp and found this which incorrectly instructs to look at coolant temp:
When using Launch Control with an engine that is not warmed up enough, a driver should always make sure that the engine’s cooling water is warmed up and reaches a recommended temperature.

It's good I haven't done any launches.
 
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Oh I was wondering how you got specific numerical values, do you have the linear gauges? Mine (2022) are the clock face gauges so I don't see specific temps, unless it's some setting I haven't found.

I've seen guys logging actual oil temps elsewhere so know it's possible with some scanners, but coolant temp is a pretty good proxy for the engine being warm. If I remember correctly, the JB4 can display water and transmission temp but not oil, and I believe it uses water temp to disable more aggressive maps until you're warmed up.

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While engine oil temp is important, what is even more so is the temp of the engine itself, more specifically, all the bearing mating surfaces: crank journals, wrist pins, camshaft bearings, piston/cylinder walls, etc. You want all those parts to be up to stable operating temp, so they are at their normal expanded dimensions and can best take high loads.

If your coolant has reached its normal stable operating temp, chances are most of the engine (in close proximity to the enveloping coolant jackets) has also reached operating temp. So, you were likely not causing too much problem loading the engine at that point.

That said, if your oil temp is still rising, that means there will be some temp gradient at the bearings, so not everything has settled into equilibrium just yet. If this were my car, I would wait a bit longer before hammering it.

As for the properties of the oil itself at 55C, most oil mfrs rate their multi-viscosity oils at 40C (as low temp range) and 100C ( at high range), so you can look up your oil's kinematic viscosity at those temps. 55C will be somewhat in between, obviously. I wouldn't consider that "cold", and certainly at 55C your oil pump should have no problem developing proper pressure - and more importantly - FLOW to critical bearing surfaces. If you use a 5w-30 oil, it might have a kinematic viscosity at 55C equivalent to a 10w-30 at 75C. As long as the oil is able to flow sufficiently well to the bearings, having a higher VI at high engine loads will yield better film strength for thin-film lubrication than a lower VI. This is why racing engines typically run higher VI oils, which better resist viscosity thinning at higher racing engine temps.

All this is a round about way of saying... yeah, you probably weren't doing major damage to your engine gunning it after 5min, BUT... best to wait till everything has stabilized at normal op temps.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Yeah oil temp. is the primary indicator of this car being warmed up.

But just as important, and what you can’t track by default, is the transmission oil temp. as well.

Usually for me the first thing to get to temps is the coolant, and basically the engine to some degree as a result, once that’s there the oil is generally 40-50% warmed up. Once the oil is fully warmed up the transmission oil usually takes another 6-10 minutes to get there, shifting more will speed this up obviously, but probably will cause more damage as well.

Overall, I’d say this car need a good bit of about 15-25 minutes of operating time to be fully warmed up. Coolant is always warmed first, followed by engine oil and then transmission fluid. Everything else of note like the diff should be warmed up by then.

This is only on a cold start in my experience, once your car is initially fully warmed up it takes maybe 3-6 minutes of driving to warm it back up unless it’s really cold or it’s been over ~6 hours.

I use 10w-30 oil and live in Florida for background. It’s essentially perfect weather year-round, with occasional really hot days and chilly 60’s.
 
I've noticed that the coolant gauge in the 2.0L engine takes noticeably longer to reach operating temperature indication than the 3.3L does. As the Premium doesn't have the "gauges" LCD screen I can't compare the two like I can in the GT1. Ima guessing that the coolant indicator in the Premium, being slower to register, is synced somehow to the oil temperature so that when you see the coolant temperature all the way up, it will be equivalent to the 3.3L's oil gauge nearing operating temperature. Then again, maybe my Premium just has a balky coolant temperature gauge.
 
Oh I was wondering how you got specific numerical values, do you have the linear gauges? Mine (2022) are the clock face gauges so I don't see specific temps, unless it's some setting I haven't found.

I've seen guys logging actual oil temps elsewhere so know it's possible with some scanners, but coolant temp is a pretty good proxy for the engine being warm. If I remember correctly, the JB4 can display water and transmission temp but not oil, and I believe it uses water temp to disable more aggressive maps until you're warmed up.

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Mine are also clock face gauges. I approximated the temp to be 55C since the minimum value is 50C and the digital needle had moved a bit.


I've noticed that the coolant gauge in the 2.0L engine takes noticeably longer to reach operating temperature indication than the 3.3L does. As the Premium doesn't have the "gauges" LCD screen I can't compare the two like I can in the GT1. Ima guessing that the coolant indicator in the Premium, being slower to register, is synced somehow to the oil temperature so that when you see the coolant temperature all the way up, it will be equivalent to the 3.3L's oil gauge nearing operating temperature. Then again, maybe my Premium just has a balky coolant temperature gauge.
Could be that 3.3L engine generates more heat.

Thanks for all the replies so far. Good to know that if there is any damage it cannot be too bad. But let's say some damage has been done - how would I know about it, how would it show? Engine not being able to generate as much power as is expected, higher fuel consumption or something like that?
 
Thanks for all the replies so far. Good to know that if there is any damage it cannot be too bad. But let's say some damage has been done - how would I know about it, how would it show? Engine not being able to generate as much power as is expected, higher fuel consumption or something like that?

Increased bearing or cylinder wear would be the biggest concerns. Short of something catastrophic like spinning a bearing, it would mainly mean accelerated long term wear.

Assuming your car doesn't have insane mileage and was in otherwise good condition, you wouldn't be able to tell just by how it drives. A compression test would let you know if you're getting abnormally high blowby, and a full teardown would be required to inspect your main bearings. But if the car is running fine and you have good oil pressure etc, you probably don't have any tangible damage, just some extra wear.
 
If you have oil catch can(s) installed, you might see more oil in them.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
just for reference, my C7 tachometer physically lowers the redline to 3500 when the engine is cold and gradually ramps it up to 6500 linearly up to full temp.
The oil temp is not a consideration in any way to the redline restriction.
Since the engineers took the time to put that redline adjustment in place one could surmise that the oil temp must not be very critical because it would have been a piece of cake to include that in the redline programming.
This is also the dry sump where the oil doesn't even crack 100 degrees until the coolant has been at 200 for at least a minute, then it takes the entire time the coolant took to warm up to get the oil to 190-200 where it typically runs.

I'm not saying it wouldn't be better if the oil was at temp, but it's not as critical as the parts having physically expanded from heat to their proper fit.
 
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