3.3TT Turbos felt like they were barely working and created almost no boost, got home, turned her off and on again and bam she was back to normal.

Princess Carolyn's Boo

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Hey guys, first time poster. I got my boo thang 2 months ago, immediately ordered Injen intakes, HKS BOVs, and some other stuff. I installed the intakes and BOVs myself a bit over a week ago, and on the drive home today it felt pretty normal at the start of the drive but after a few min it felt a little weaker than I was used to. I put my foot 100% down on the highway and I was only making a few pounds of boost and the BOVs were showing that, I could barely hear them today. I thought one of the 1 inch chair leg covers came off the Injen intakes because it almost felt like there was a leak of air in the system. However, I got home, checked under the hood, and everything looked exactly like how it did when I last saw it. Started her up again, drove very aggressively for a few minutes to see how the turbos were acting, and I could tell within 5 seconds that it was back to normal. There were no check engine lights or anything of the sort when she was acting up. Is this something I should be concerned about? I have no idea what caused it, and it seemed to fix itself with no problem, but I'm worried about it happening again.
 
Lots of threads on this if you'll do a search.
 
Over boost. The '22s with the valved exhaust tend to encounter this as well. It's referred to as "limp mode" and you've already noticed that turning the car off and back on returns it to normal, till the next time. (I read a lot :)).
 
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Over boost. The '22s with the valved exhaust tend to encounter this as well. It's referred to as "limp mode" and you've already noticed that turning the car off and back on returns it to normal, till the next time. (I read a lot :)).
I had read a bit about limp mode and immediately thought that this was limp mode, but upon a quick google search on limp mode it said that there should be check engine lights turning on and the sort so I wasn't sure. What are the best ways to avoid this happening again?
 
What are the best ways to avoid this happening again?
Fewer mods. :D I've only read of the '22s doing this occasionally. Other than not driving like a hooligan I have not read of any "thing" that you can do to keep it from occurring. When it over boosts it has to reset to get back to normal. Apparently that always works (unless some other issue is throwing codes like you mentioned).
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Fewer mods. :D I've only read of the '22s doing this occasionally. Other than not driving like a hooligan I have not read of any "thing" that you can do to keep it from occurring. When it over boosts it has to reset to get back to normal. Apparently that always works (unless some other issue is throwing codes like you mentioned).
The only other mod im planning to put on under the hood is an oil catch can. I'm also putting lowering springs, sway bars, and velossa tech Big Mouth Ram airs. I've been doing some research and it seems like some people are having the problem only after putting in a JB4, but some people are saying that putting in a JB4 should fix it. I would rather not tune Carolyn because I'd like to keep her for 10+ years and I've heard that tuning reduces the lifespan of the car because it adds additional strain/stress to the drivetrain.

One guy said that he was having the problems with the JB4, and after installing a Lozic ECU tune the problem went away. If this ends up being a reoccuring problem, do you think that a JB4 or Lozic ecu tune would help?
 
I've had this happen to me twice so far in my '22 since I bought it in December, both times while the temps were cold. This usually seems to happen both when the temps are cooler and before you've given the car ample chance to warm up, especially in the '22's and '23's. Give the car PLENTY of time to warm up before you romp on the throttle...especially in cold temps. Don't just go by oil temp. It takes longer than that. Both times when it happened to me, I never received a check engine light, but when I hooked up my OBDII code reader it showed the overboost code as a pending code. I'm guessing if it continues to happen, then it'll actually trigger the CEL.

As for the JB4, if you add the EWG wires to it, it should help a bit. Just putting in a JB4 won't fix the issue. Normally for you would need the JB4, Fuel wires, and EWG wires.

ECU tune would also help.

Also, no clue why in the world you changed out the BOV's. No real need to do it, especially if you aren't putting on a tune. A lot of the stuff I've been reading about people who've swapped out BOV's if they aren't tuned is they wind up swapping back to stock BOV's.
 
If this ends up being a reoccuring problem, do you think that a JB4 or Lozic ecu tune would help?
@bfglitch gave a good answer. No doubt, what I can say, from what I've read, is probably informed by his posts and others who give information and advice.

My drivetrain is bone stock for a couple of reasons: the stock Stinger is more car already than I make use of 99.9% of the time, and I don't like fiddling with things that work as designed. But you do your car how it will make you happy. :thumbup:
 
Give the car PLENTY of time to warm up before you romp on the throttle...especially in cold temps.
Yeah im very careful with my throttle until my engine oil temps hit their usual 200F... except for yesterday I stepped onto the throttle hard for about 3 seconds when the engine was still warming up. Now that I think about it the drive was normal up until that point so im pretty sure that must have been the cause. From your experience, how long after the engine oil temps hit their usual temp is it safe to drive like a hooligan (to quote MerlinTheMad)
Also, no clue why in the world you changed out the BOV's. No real need to do it, especially if you aren't putting on a tune. A lot of the stuff I've been reading about people who've swapped out BOV's if they aren't tuned is they wind up swapping back to stock BOV's.
Big air woosh noise = Big driving enjoyment
 
Yeah im very careful with my throttle until my engine oil temps hit their usual 200F... except for yesterday I stepped onto the throttle hard for about 3 seconds when the engine was still warming up. Now that I think about it the drive was normal up until that point so im pretty sure that must have been the cause. From your experience, how long after the engine oil temps hit their usual temp is it safe to drive like a hooligan (to quote MerlinTheMad)

Big air woosh noise = Big driving enjoyment

Unfortunately it's tough to really say exactly how long after the oil temp reaches the usual 200F to when you can really get on the throttle without worry of getting the dreaded overboost condition. During the summer I never had it once, even if I was impatient. About to start heading into cooler months here so I guess I'll have to find out as well.

Ahhh yes. The woosh. Sometimes I dig it. Sometimes meh. But it's your car so obviously do what ever brings you joy with it.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I've had this happen to me twice so far in my '22 since I bought it in December, both times while the temps were cold. This usually seems to happen both when the temps are cooler and before you've given the car ample chance to warm up, especially in the '22's and '23's. Give the car PLENTY of time to warm up before you romp on the throttle...especially in cold temps. Don't just go by oil temp. It takes longer than that. Both times when it happened to me, I never received a check engine light, but when I hooked up my OBDII code reader it showed the overboost code as a pending code. I'm guessing if it continues to happen, then it'll actually trigger the CEL.

As for the JB4, if you add the EWG wires to it, it should help a bit. Just putting in a JB4 won't fix the issue. Normally for you would need the JB4, Fuel wires, and EWG wires.

ECU tune would also help.

Also, no clue why in the world you changed out the BOV's. No real need to do it, especially if you aren't putting on a tune. A lot of the stuff I've been reading about people who've swapped out BOV's if they aren't tuned is they wind up swapping back to stock BOV's.
So i do have the stock BOV's and my car is in limp mode, so of course turn it off and turn it back on will fix it like usual, but what if it doesn't? Because thats the issue im having right now. Temps are warm here btw and i only have mbrp exaust, jb4, injen intakes and hks spark plugs, although idk how to fix this limp mode this time! Can anyone help?
 
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