3.3TT Turbo removal

[Stingabit]

Have any of you pulled the passenger side turbo? I am having a heck of a time trying to get to the 14mm nut behind the turbo, the 4th nut on the manifold. I broke a tap off in the flange chasing the threads after stripping the stud out when removing the cats. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I've seen posts saying the engine definitely doesn't have to be pulled to take the turbos out, I just haven't figured

out what combination of tools to access that dang nut.. this is a pic of the broken tap. If anyone has a suggestion on how I might be able to get that tap out without pulling the turbo I'm open to those suggestions also. Thank you!

 

[rtv900]

how much of the tap is sticking out? Can you grab it at all with vise grips or anything? That's the best way and hope it turns. Once it gets started it should turn more freely. If you can't grab anything all you can do is try and break it up and pick out the pieces. You'll need a hardened punch, but at some point it will cause other problems if you have to beat on it super hard.
How the heck did you break a tap just chasing threads? Are you sure you didn't get started crooked?

 

[Ohiocruiser]

Here's thread about similar problem. Turbo flange studs

 

[Stingabit]

how much of the tap is sticking out? Can you grab it at all with vise grips or anything? That's the best way and hope it turns. Once it gets started it should turn more freely. If you can't grab anything all you can do is try and break it up and pick out the pieces. You'll need a hardened punch, but at some point it will cause other problems if you have to beat on it super hard.
How the heck did you break a tap just chasing threads? Are you sure you didn't get started crooked?

The tap it self had a flaw in the steel, go figure. I can't get pliers in their, I have a friend who is of much smaller then I, he can possibly get in there from under the car I'm hoping.

 

[AWDGT2]

You can pull the passenger side motor mount bolt out and jack the engine up on that side several inches. It will give you a bunch more room to work and sort that out.

 

[Stingabit]

You can pull the passenger side motor mount bolt out and jack the engine up on that side several inches. It will give you a bunch more room to work and sort that out.

Thank you!

 

[Stingabit]

Thank you for your suggestions. I pulled the engine mount bolt lifted the engine up a couple inches. Then went about removing all the coolant lines that run over and along the side of the turbo. I was fortunate enough that enough of the tap was protruding out of the flange to get a small pair of vise grips on it, it came out pretty easily. Rechased the the threads cleaned em out with wd40 and put a new m8x1.25 stud in. Now I'm waiting on IMR to ship me my deletes.its crazy when you search youtube for primary cat deletes, how many guys have ran into this very issue. I only have 18k on this car never driven in the winter here in the pnw, a few times caught in rain. I honestly thought I'd be the exception... go figure lol... thanks again for your input, I really appreciate it. One hurdle closer to 700hp

 

[globalrebel]

So, quick question . . . . would this also work to then be able to replace the alternator for the 3.3L? Seems everything I see states you have to drop the engine, but if you can remove the turbo assembly and such and then get access to the alternator... would save a TON of time not having to drop the engine and transmission to replace alternator.

Thank you for your suggestions. I pulled the engine mount bolt lifted the engine up a couple inches. Then went about removing all the coolant lines that run over and along the side of the turbo. I was fortunate enough that enough of the tap was protruding out of the flange to get a small pair of vise grips on it, it came out pretty easily. Rechased the the threads cleaned em out with wd40 and put a new m8x1.25 stud in. Now I'm waiting on IMR to ship me my deletes.its crazy when you search youtube for primary cat deletes, how many guys have ran into this very issue. I only have 18k on this car never driven in the winter here in the pnw, a few times caught in rain. I honestly thought I'd be the exception... go figure lol... thanks again for your input, I really appreciate it. One hurdle closer to 700hp

 

[rtv900]

So, quick question . . . . would this also work to then be able to replace the alternator for the 3.3L? Seems everything I see states you have to drop the engine, but if you can remove the turbo assembly and such and then get access to the alternator... would save a TON of time not having to drop the engine and transmission to replace alternator.

absolutely ridiculous this was the design for such a commonly replaced item
I'm going to strangle someone if my alternator ever fails

 

[jinthadell]

Was just talking about changing the alternator w a buddy of mine this morning. He said his bro had to have the engine dropped to swap alternators. I told him, “There’s gotta be another way!”

 

[rtv900]

Was just talking about changing the alternator w a buddy of mine this morning. He said his bro had to have the engine dropped to swap alternators. I told him, “There’s gotta be another way!”

yeah man, totally agree
I'd be in the "there's another way camp" too
there's always another way

 

[globalrebel]

From what I am seeing and hearing, there is not.

Until I get confirmation... It's a 14 hour job in my eyes.

I saw this and it has def made me hesitate on buying a used stinger. I want the car soo bad, but this is just crazy.

The whole process for dropping the engine and trans is crazy. I was really hoping the pass engine bolt mount trick might allow it.

Guess we wait for someone to confirm...