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Tune and Dyno?

Anicete21

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Hey everybody. New here. Forgive me if this is posted in the wrong area.

I’m from Indiana and I have a 2023 Stinger GT2. I have JB4. HKS plugs ark secondary pipes (wasn’t sure if I needed primary or secondary change) and MBRP exhaust.

My question is if anybody lives near me or knows anybody near me that can help tune/dyno my car? I followed the YouTube videos and all the best I could. Car runs well. I tried doing an e30 mix and run on map4. Was really nice. But then I kept throwing codes for the fuel being too lean in bank 1 and/ or 2. So I just went back to 93 and stuck to map2. Pulled plugs checked them made sure the gap was still good. Seemed fine. Put them back in. Reset the ECU. But now my car has a lot more burbles than before (I love it but when that happened before I knew my mixture was off) but it hasn’t thrown any codes being on 93. Is it cause the cold air is making it louder and more burbles? Idk.

I also found a small droplet of oil(?) on my exhaust cutout (plastic piece) but I don’t see or hear or smell any issues. No leaks or blue smoke. The car seems to run fine but that’s what has me nervous if that makes sense haha. Seems too good to be true. Idk. Any help would be appreciated!

Sorry for the book. But ultimately looking for someone to get their hands on my car to ensure everything is good to go.

Thanks
Josh
 
kept throwing codes for the fuel being too lean in bank 1 and/ or 2
What codes are you throwing? I would pull a JB4 log on Map 2, then Map 3 (with E30).

Usually the problems people run into working up the maps are octane limitation (timing corrections), or overboost (which downpipes can contribute to), or maxing out the high pressure fuel pump (with too much ethanol).

The latter would be the closest thing to causing a lean condition, but the JB4 should see the HPFP pressure dropping and kick you into Map 0 before you throw a DTC code (I think). Your log should give insight as to which.
 
Do you have the "fuel wires" on the JB4? They tap into the primary O2 sensors on each bank. They are a good idea on map 2 and pretty much critical beyond that. I haven't messed with map 4 but I wonder if the fuel correction is adjustable and got set incorrectly.

You probably won't find anyone local that specializes in the JB4, but ask the folks at Burger if there's an authorized reseller local to you. The Burger team is also really helpful on their forums.
Check the JB4 forums on what's needed to run map 4. Going to map 3 is straight forward, but beyond that does require some planning and special steps.

The turbos will leak at the high end of their pressure threshold. If it keeps happening when driving normally then the seals are damaged and they need to be examined. Just keep an eye on it.
 
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What codes are you throwing? I would pull a JB4 log on Map 2, then Map 3 (with E30).

Usually the problems people run into working up the maps are octane limitation (timing corrections), or overboost (which downpipes can contribute to), or maxing out the high pressure fuel pump (with too much ethanol).

The latter would be the closest thing to causing a lean condition, but the JB4 should see the HPFP pressure dropping and kick you into Map 0 before you throw a DTC code (I think). Your log should give insight as to which.
P0171 sometimes a P0172. Which is the AFR if I’m correct? I’ve checked the log the problem is, idk what I’m looking at lol. Everything I’ve “researched” shows that it looks normal. Ign 2-6 is showing .08. The only thing that gets me nervous is on my jb4, the live data on the gauges, the AFR and Ign 1 are bouncing all over the place and into the “red zone”. Is this normal on acceleration and deceleration due to AFR on and off throttle and timing etc?

I have hit an overboost I believe. It went into limp mode and went away and never came back after reset. I believe I had another code concerning a possible vacuum leak. I think it was from a loose hose clamp when I was checking my oil catch cans.

I haven’t had a code in quite some time. But again I’m only running 93. I’m nervous to go back to an e30 blend as much as I miss it I’d rather not blow up the engine or something.

The concern is all the newfound burbles now and now I’m hearing my turbos whistle at idle, which I love both but I’m sure these things don’t just occur overnight or over time, right?

Thank you for the reply!
 
Do you have the "fuel wires" on the JB4? They tap into the primary O2 sensors on each bank. They are a good idea on map 2 and pretty much critical beyond that. I haven't messed with map 4 but I wonder if the fuel correction is adjustable and got set incorrectly.

You probably won't find anyone local that specializes in the JB4, but ask the folks at Burger if there's an authorized reseller local to you. The Burger team is also really helpful on their forums.
Check the JB4 forums on what's needed to run map 4. Going to map 3 is straight forward, but beyond that does require some planning and special steps.

The turbos will leak at the high end of their pressure threshold. If it keeps happening when driving normally then the seals are damaged and they need to be examined. Just keep an eye on it.
I don’t have fuel wires. Again, I’m no expert on this and I only went with from what I’ve “researched” I was under the impression that in order to run jb4 it would be recommended to change spark plugs and exhaust, etc. which I did.

I will most likely get fuel wires now. Is there anything else I’d need to change or upgrade to run map 2+? I pulled the plugs before to check for anything out of the ordinary, again I’m not expert, but everything looked good and equal? No oil or what seemed to be improper burning and what not. Gapped and torqued down correctly I believe. I just hope I didn’t damage anything or ruin something that was working just fine until I got my hands back under the hood. I worry about misfires cause I can’t determine what normal vibrations or normal cold starts are.

I’ll see if anyone is local or has more knowledgeable and ability than I do about this. I just don’t wanna pay out the butt either.

And the turbos leaking at the high end…is that “normal” is that why I found a drop of oil at the tailpipe?

Thanks for the reply!
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
The only thing that gets me nervous is on my jb4, the live data on the gauges, the AFR and Ign 1 are bouncing all over the place and into the “red zone”. Is this normal on acceleration and deceleration due to AFR on and off throttle and timing etc?
In a modern car, AFR and timing advance will be all over the place when you're off throttle, at a low throttle cruise, or between gears. You need to take a log at WOT through a couple of gears, which will show how timing advance increases throughout the rev range, or pulls/corrects. AFR will also be a good sanity check, though the JB4 won't be leaning you out up high if you don't have fuel/O2 wires.

Do a pull on the highest map that's been stable (1 or 2), then if you have E30 in the tank, progress to 3.
 
Do some reading on the Burger forums, especially this thread: Kia & Hyundai JB4 - JB4tech.com - International Turbo Tuning Discussion. Some of the info on the parameters and maps 4-8 is out of date, so you want to read the release notes and other updates since then.

Go up the maps slowly and stop where you're happy. I daily drive map 2 and never even messed with map 3 or higher.

Some oil is normal when really pushing a turbo. It just depends on how much you're seeing, and under what conditions. The stock turbos can only handle ~20psi or ~21psi max.

Misfires, when minor, will just be a rough idle. I had Denso plugs at first, and the tips wore away almost completely on 4 of them. It was just a mild shake at idle. It's not so much a noise as a vibration because the engine isn't running normally.
Pinging/pre-ignition sounds like marbles rattling in a can.
Rod knock sounds like someone tapping the side of the engine with a hammer and is most noticeable when the engine is slowing down - tap the throttle in park then let the engine idle down. If it sounds like it's trying to start a speed metal band then it's time to pray.
 
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