To those who have installed new sway bars - a torque question

[FreePreview]

So I ordered both Eibach front and rear sway bars for my '19 GT1 and I was wondering about torqueing the end links.

The specs I found online show the following:
Front stabilizer bar to sub frame: 36.2 - 47.0 ft/lbs
Front stabilizer bar to front stabilizer link: 72.3 - 86.8 ft/lbs
Rear stabilizer bar to sub frame 36.2 - 47.0 ft/lbs
Rear stabilizer bar to stabilizer link 72.3 - 86.8 ft/lbs

Did everyone else torque their end links that high? I've only ever done sway bars on an old Firebird and it's torque was way lower than that (around 20ft/lbs I think)
Based on those numbers I was going to torque to 40-42ft/lbs on the subframe and 80ft/lbs on the end links.

Also, what settings is everyone running? I was thinking stiff in the rear and soft up front based on what I've seen on the forum, but I know Eibach says the stiff setting in the rear is dangerous when wet. Was wondering if others have that experience.

Also, Is torqueing the end links with the suspension loaded necessary? I can't find a straight answer on the internet.
If so, how do I do that with the car on jackstands? Can I jack up the diff?

 

[AA95101]

I tried to torque the end links and ended up snapping my extension. I am normally anal about torqueing fasteners to spec but I ended up going German spec.
I would try and match the lengths of the endlinks to the best of your ability and load the suspension either using wood blocks or some ramps.
Hope this helps.

 

[Rynil2000]

I installed my Eibach sways a few months back. I think we found the same info online for torque settings. I followed the recommended spec and have not had issues.

Setting wise, I run both front and rear on soft. I started there to see how much improvement it made. It feels perfect to me, so I’ve never gone to firm setting. Even on soft the back end is easier to step out, but the bars give you a better feeling of consistency of that does happen.

I installed my sway bars while the car was up on a set of Quickjacks, with the wheels off, so the suspension was not loaded. I didn’t see any warnings either way, so I’m sure it’s fine.

As for lifting the car, it’s a big PITA b/c it’s 1) really long and 2) doesn’t have a center lift point (at least not one that is mentioned officially).

 

[Snowwhite]

I strongly recommend the torque specs listed, especially for the front links. I've had to retighten the front ones twice now. Because of what I’m using to tighten them I’m not sure I’m anywhere near those torque specs.

as far as loaded vs hanging, I pre-loaded before tightening everything. Rears I did one side at a time, and used the jack to get the suspension more or less even with the other side, the front axle i did with the car on ramps. I suspect it doesn’t make much difference, but it was easy enough to pre-load so I did it anyway.

 

[oddball]

You do NOT need to load the suspension to torque sway bars or end links. All those parts can rotate freely, so no big deal.
Torquing while loaded is important for rubber bushing because they're normally held captive on the inner and outer surfaces when torqued down, and rubber can't twist, so it needs to be in the "resting" alignment. Otherwise it'll always be trying to turn itself back to the drooped location.


All those torque values seem unnecessarily high to me. The bushing brackets just need enough so they don't fall off, and the end links use pinch nuts. I just gave the end links a hard "UNGH" with a fixed wrench and called it good enough.

I'm running both on soft and notice a whole lot more oversteer than previously. So running soft on front and firm on rear would make that even worse. YMMV.

 

[AA95101]

Keep in mind it really depends if your using the factory sways or aftermarket adjustable, ie whiteline s, if your running stock no need to load the sways.
If you are upgrading the manufacturers recommend loading them, so you should.