The Dreaded Vibration While Braking

SunandMoon

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Yes, I know there have been a zillion posts on this and I have also read the post about this not being rotor related and to do the hard stop, let the car sit etc.

When I began getting this vibration, I went to the dealer who said that I needed brake pads (no rotor issues) which were apparently better than what came with the car. At the same time, the service person is telling about how "delicate" the brakes are. He tells me not to brake hard, not to sit in stop and start traffic etc....all of these things will cause issues. Ok, I live in Dallas, so it's not like I can avoid sitting in traffic nor avoid idiots who turn in front of me which means I have to slam on the brakes. This is absolutely absurd!
So, I pay for a brake job and less than 2 months later the vibration is back. I took it for a second opinion and watched as they checked the rotors which are indeed warped. I go back to the dealership and he askes me about my driving etc. and says "oh, so the brakes did get hot." Really, yes! It's summer in Dallas and I drove my car so yes, i'm sure the brakes got hot. I tell him about the rotors etc. blah blah blah. He tells me he can't get me in for 3 weeks. He also said that some Stinger owners are choosing to upgrade their rotors which is $1000 +. It's just hard to believe that I should have to pay that kind of money for brakes for a new car. He's also sounding like the stock replacement rotors won't be covered under warranty.
As much as I love this car, i'm seriously considering getting rid of it. I don't know if I should get rid of it or suck up the $1000 to upgrade and hopefully enjoy the car longer with no more issues. I'm open to suggestions.
Thanks for letting me vent!
 
Yes, I know there have been a zillion posts on this and I have also read the post about this not being rotor related and to do the hard stop, let the car sit etc.

When I began getting this vibration, I went to the dealer who said that I needed brake pads (no rotor issues) which were apparently better than what came with the car. At the same time, the service person is telling about how "delicate" the brakes are. He tells me not to brake hard, not to sit in stop and start traffic etc....all of these things will cause issues. Ok, I live in Dallas, so it's not like I can avoid sitting in traffic nor avoid idiots who turn in front of me which means I have to slam on the brakes. This is absolutely absurd!
So, I pay for a brake job and less than 2 months later the vibration is back. I took it for a second opinion and watched as they checked the rotors which are indeed warped. I go back to the dealership and he askes me about my driving etc. and says "oh, so the brakes did get hot." Really, yes! It's summer in Dallas and I drove my car so yes, i'm sure the brakes got hot. I tell him about the rotors etc. blah blah blah. He tells me he can't get me in for 3 weeks. He also said that some Stinger owners are choosing to upgrade their rotors which is $1000 +. It's just hard to believe that I should have to pay that kind of money for brakes for a new car. He's also sounding like the stock replacement rotors won't be covered under warranty.
As much as I love this car, i'm seriously considering getting rid of it. I don't know if I should get rid of it or suck up the $1000 to upgrade and hopefully enjoy the car longer with no more issues. I'm open to suggestions.
Thanks for letting me vent!
Unless you were racing, like autoX, track, slowing down from 140mph, no your brakes didn't get hot. Hot for brakes is not hot for humans.

Under lemon law for most states, they get 2 chances and a final chance to fix an issue, then they have to buy back the car. There are more than enough reports of this issue on this site to establish that this is not a one-off thing. This doesn't happen to other cars, except when there's a problem. They are feeding you complete BS answers. Document these issues. Also document the absolute wild ass "reasons" given and who told them to you. The bottom line is brake vibration. You've had it "fixed" how many times now? Prepare a letter for the final time, send it to them, tell them you want the problem fixed in compliance with the lemon law, or they need to buy back the car or provide a new one that doesn't have the problem.

If you are not the original owner or have no warranty, you might be more up a creek. The idea that this is all coming from pad deposits or bad break-in is ridiculous, like you point out. Like, all these cars are all messed up because people took them on test drives? What about when they take the car and drive it half a mile at the factory to check for assembly? The idea that you are going to go out and do a brake break-in is usually so you can quickly develop full power...not because if you don't, you'll get crazy vibrations when stopping. Like if the pads are just disintegrating and leaving tons of material everywhere, that'd be a pretty serious recall issue (and pretty obvious at that). It's a resonance issue and it's a pretty well known phenomenon.
 
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I'll post my redacted letter sometime later today.
 
______________________________
Yes, I know there have been a zillion posts on this and I have also read the post about this not being rotor related and to do the hard stop, let the car sit etc.

When I began getting this vibration, I went to the dealer who said that I needed brake pads (no rotor issues) which were apparently better than what came with the car. At the same time, the service person is telling about how "delicate" the brakes are. He tells me not to brake hard, not to sit in stop and start traffic etc....all of these things will cause issues. Ok, I live in Dallas, so it's not like I can avoid sitting in traffic nor avoid idiots who turn in front of me which means I have to slam on the brakes. This is absolutely absurd!
So, I pay for a brake job and less than 2 months later the vibration is back. I took it for a second opinion and watched as they checked the rotors which are indeed warped. I go back to the dealership and he askes me about my driving etc. and says "oh, so the brakes did get hot." Really, yes! It's summer in Dallas and I drove my car so yes, i'm sure the brakes got hot. I tell him about the rotors etc. blah blah blah. He tells me he can't get me in for 3 weeks. He also said that some Stinger owners are choosing to upgrade their rotors which is $1000 +. It's just hard to believe that I should have to pay that kind of money for brakes for a new car. He's also sounding like the stock replacement rotors won't be covered under warranty.
As much as I love this car, i'm seriously considering getting rid of it. I don't know if I should get rid of it or suck up the $1000 to upgrade and hopefully enjoy the car longer with no more issues. I'm open to suggestions.
Thanks for letting me vent!
Why would you pay and continue willing to pay?
 
Why would you pay and continue willing to pay?
When I paid for new brake pads, it was prior to me seeing all of this on the forum. I guess like others that i've seen on here, I love the car so it's a toss up on paying for upgraded rotors etc and having a car that I love be fine moving forward or saying screw it and get something different. Kia has us between a rock and a hard place. If they absolutely refuse to cover this under warranty then we have a hard decision to make. They know this. The service guy told me that they won't recall it because it's not a safety issue. The service manager did call me later and say he is going to reach out to Kia to see what can be done.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Xxxxxxxxx of Xxxxx Xxxxxxxx
xxxx xxx xxxxxx xxx
Xxxxxxxx, xx xxxxx

xxxxxxxx

Dear Sir/Ma’am,

Summary:

I brought my
xxxx to Xxxxxxxxx of Xxxxx Xxxxxxxx for repair for xxxxxx xxxxxx during the week of November 19th, xxxx. There have been 3 diagnoses as to the cause of this issue from that date to the date of this letter, the last of which appears to be either incomplete or faulty.

At this point, it appears
Xxxxxxxxx of Xxxxx Xxxxxxxx is incapable of performing this repair. The car was brought to Xxxxxxxxx of Xxxxx Xxxxxxxx during the week of November 19, xxxx, within 1 year from the date of delivery. The service department has had plenty of time to accomplish repairs. This notice is being delivered to you within 60 days of the 1 year period that I took delivery of the vehicle.

I am stating that:


(1) The vehicle has a nonconformity;
(2) I have provided a reasonable description of the nonconformity;
(3)
Xxxxxxxxx has made a reasonable number of attempts to return the vehicle to conformity within a reasonable amount of time, and;
(4) I demand a refund or replacement vehicle to be delivered on the 60th day after the mailing of this written notice.

In accordance with
Xxxxx Statute Section xx.xx.xxx

(1) xxxxxx xxxxxx is a significant hazard, causing xxxxx xxxx while driving.
(2) (a)
xxxxxx xxxxxx xxxxx xxxxx the problem persisted and a new diagnosis was then given of “xxxxxxxxxx xxxxx” after further investigation. As it stands, the xxxxx xxxxxxxx diagnosis appears to be either faulty or incomplete, as the issue appears to still persist.

(2) (b) The vehicle has not been abused.

Please respond within 10 business days of receiving this letter as to the course of action that
Xxxxxxxxx of Xxxxx Xxxxxxxx intends to take in regards to this issue.

Narrative:


During the week of November 19-23, xxxx, I brought my vehicle to Xxxxxxxxx of Xxxxx Xxxxxxxx, also known as Xxxxxx Xxxxxxxxx for an xxxxxx xxxxxxx problem. This problem was occurring when car was xxxxxx and the xxxxx was xxxx. During the first few miles, xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, xxxxx xxxxxx, xxxxx xxx, causing xxxxxx. The car was always stored in a heated garage and this problem started before significant temperature drops (to freezing temps outside). A search of 2016+ Xxxxx xx internet boards turned up several xxxxx xxxxxx issues that appeared to be the same or similar.
I took delivery of the vehicle on January 2nd, xxxx.
Due to this non-responsiveness with the service department, I opened up a service issue with XXXXX customer service, service issue xxxxxxxxxx.​
During the 3rd week of December, I brought the parts to the dealership. According to service advisor Xxxxxx Xxxxxx, the delay I was experiencing was due to service advisor Xxxxx Xxxxxxx having to take medical leave.​
I do not remember at what time, but later, I received a call from the dealership that a part appeared to be missing from the car. This may have been the last week of December or first week of January. I went to the dealership and they brought my car around. I showed them that the part they were inquiring about was installed in the car, in the place where it was supposed to be.
After this, on the 11th of January, Xxxxxxxxx of Xxxxx Xxxxxxxx and I received a call from the XXXXX customer service senior service advisor, “Xxxxx”. Xxxxx told me that they had fixed the car and that they only needed to start it up just to verify the issue, he said Xxxxxxxxx of Xxxxx Xxxxxxxx would contact me on Monday. He asked to close the customer service ticket.
I did not receive any contact from Xxxxxxxxx of Xxxxx Xxxxxxxx until I called them on Wednesday, January 16th. By this time Xxxxx Xxxxxxx was back from medical leave. I inquired as to the status of the vehicle, but it appeared that nothing had been done and the vehicle had not been started to verify the problem. The service advisor said they would do this and then call me back the same day. Later that day, I did receive a call back, but the original problem still existed with the car. The service advisor said they would have to get it back in the shop and troubleshoot it.
On January 18th, I received a call back from Xxxxx Xxxxxxx, saying that they had found xxxxxxxx xxxxx in the car and that I had “let the car sit for a year”. I immediately told Mr. Xxxxxxx that I had owned the car for less than a year and that I had ran it every month and that had xxxxx receipts to show it. I told Mr. Xxxxxxx the reason for the winter tires and wheels that were currently installed on the car were so I could drive it in the winter. I told him that the longest the car had ever sat I one place was at the Xxxxx Xxxxxxxx Xxxxxxxxx service department, since November. I emailed Mr. Xxxxxxx my xxxxx receipts.
Later, through discussion with Xxxxx Xxxxxxx, I was informed that it wasn’t xxxxx from sitting in one place, as was originally thought. According to Mr. Xxxxxxx, this diagnosis was an assumption from the technician, even though Mr. Xxxxxxx told me they could tell the difference between xxx xxxxx from sitting vs. from a xxxxx xxxxxxxx. No reason was given for accusation of the car “sitting for a year”.
After discussion with Xxxxx, the senior service advisor from XXXXX, I authorized Xxxxx Xxxxxxx to go ahead and perform the repair for the xxx xxxxx. This was on the 24th of January, xxxx.​
A full week passed and Xxxxxxxxx of Xxxxx Xxxxxxxx did not contact me to inform me what the status of my vehicle was. When I called on the 31st of January, I was informed the procedure to xxxxx and replace the xxxxx had been performed, but that the car was still having problems. No specific information was given. I left a message with Xxxxx, the senior service advisor, that I needed to know what was going on with my car.
On February 1st, I spoke to Xxxxx, the senior service advisor with XXXXX. He was unable to provide me any additional information about my vehicle, but said he would contact Xxxxxxxxx of Xxxxx Xxxxxxxx and then get back to me. Xxxxx called me back shortly thereafter, but did not have any additional information. I expressed my frustration, as it appeared that my vehicle still suffered from the same problem I brought it in for back in November. Xxxxx said that Xxxxxxxxx of Xxxxx Xxxxxxxx wasn’t providing him any information. I expressed to Xxxxx that I had a problem with the fact that Xxxxxxxxx of Xxxxx Xxxxxxxx was not saying what the exact problem was, rather, it sounded evasive.
Later that day, I spoke with Mr. Xxxxxxx, who would not say what the exact problem was with the car, just that it “was not 100%”. He said it was “better than it was”, but that a tool needed to calibrate the car was “out of calibration”. Although I asked once again, no specific information was given as to what the exact problem that the car was having, what tool needed calibration and what that calibration was for.
On February 4th, I spoke with Mr. Xxxxxxx and asked the status of my vehicle. He said that they were downloading a program for the computer tool that was out of calibration and that was needed to fix my vehicle. I inquired as to what the exact problem was with the car, Mr. Xxxxxxx said it was still xxxxxx. I asked how long it was expected to take to get the data and perform the repairs. Mr. Xxxxxxx said he was unsure, but would get back to me later that date. I told Mr. Xxxxxxx that he could call me back the next day, Tuesday.
I received no calls on Tuesday from Mr. Xxxxxxx or the Xxxxxxxxx of Xxxxx Xxxxxxxx service department.
Additionally, the vehicle has been sitting outside at Xxxxxxxxx of Xxxxx Xxxxxxxx during the Xxxxxn winter during this entire time, except for short periods when it was in the service bay. I visited Xxxxxxxxx of Xxxxx Xxxxxxxx several times and verified the vehicle was outside, including February 2nd, xxxx, when I took several pictures. From November, xxxx, the temperatures have been subfreezing most of the time, going into the negative Fahrenheit temperatures at times. To contrast, as a responsible owner I keep this car inside a heated garage in the winter, to minimize any damage that may occur due to freezing temperatures. It has undoubtedly experienced significant wear while sitting outside during most of the Xxxxxx winter.
Attachments:

Multiple statements from conversations with service advisors and photos taken on February 2nd,
xxxx.

Sincerely,

Xxxxxx Xxxxxxx
xxxxxxx Xxxxxx Xxxxxx
Xxxxxxxx, xx xxxxx
 
After the letter, in 2 days they called saying it was detailed and ready to go. No problems.
 
After the letter, in 2 days they called saying it was detailed and ready to go. No problems.
You're amazing! Very professional and impressive! :thumbup::thumbup:

When I paid for new brake pads, it was prior to me seeing all of this on the forum. I guess like others that i've seen on here, I love the car so it's a toss up on paying for upgraded rotors etc and having a car that I love be fine moving forward or saying screw it and get something different. Kia has us between a rock and a hard place. If they absolutely refuse to cover this under warranty then we have a hard decision to make. They know this. The service guy told me that they won't recall it because it's not a safety issue. The service manager did call me later and say he is going to reach out to Kia to see what can be done.
No worries... it's just always a shame to see good people scammed by the stealerships... we've all been there... myself included... good luck friend!
 
Here's the law for a state I picked at random, Texas. The underlined part is important. This is how I formatted my letter, although my state's law is a little different. But you just do a 1, 2, 3, etc. and address each of the numbers, or the "tests" as indicated below. You use your documentation to back it up. You try to word stuff clearly and simply to where it can't be construed in any other way. The other real important thing is you send this thing registered mail, return receipt, and normal mail (two letters). The return receipt means you get a receipt back stating they got the letter, so they most definitely got served. If by some crazy chance they really want to try and play nasty and just not sign for the letter (ultra rare for a business), if you get the return receipt letter back and not the regular mail letter, you can still show a presumption that they got "served notice" if it goes to court. Usually, when you format a letter like this and send it, they straighten up real fast, because any 2-bit lawyer or legal department realizes you go them fair and square. And in the rare case that they are just stupid or incompetent, you'd cream them with a lemon law lawyer...but realize, you've done 95% of the work already. That lawyer should cut you a pretty decent deal, not having to do all the work. Your "attachments" should be signed statements of your conversations with the dealer and other people regarding the issue. Your service records for the prior attempts. Any pertinent pictures or other documentation.

Texas:

How does the Lemon Law work?​

The Texas Lemon Law is a state law administered by the Texas Department of Motor Vehicles that helps consumers who buy or lease new motor vehicles and have repeated problems getting their vehicles properly repaired under the manufacturer’s original warranty. The Lemon Law can help a consumer get the vehicle repurchased, replaced or repaired. It can be less complicated and less expensive than going to court.

What does it cover?​

New vehicles, including cars, trucks, vans, motorcycles, all-terrain vehicles, motor homes, towable recreational vehicles (TRVs), and neighborhood electric vehicles that develop a defect(s) covered by a manufacturer’s written warranty. Demonstrator vehicles that have not been previously titled are considered new vehicles.

The law does not cover repossessed vehicles, non-travel trailers, boats, or farm equipment. Nor does it cover defects that do not substantially impair the use or market value of the vehicle such as minor rattles, radio static, etc.

Are used motor vehicles covered?​

Your used vehicle may be covered under current state laws. Texas law related to warranty performance may cover your used vehicle if it is still covered by the manufacturer’s original warranty (not an extended service contract), or if the defect started and was reported to the dealer while under the manufacturer’s original warranty and the defect continues to exist, repair assistance for that problem may be available to you.

How do I know if my vehicle is a Lemon?​

The vehicle must meet all of the following conditions:

  1. It has a substantial manufacturing defect
  2. The defect is covered by a manufacturer’s written warranty
  3. The owner reports the defect to the dealer or manufacturer within the warranty term
  4. The owner gives the dealer a reasonable number of attempts to repair the defect or condition
  5. The owner gives the manufacturer written notice (preferably by certified mail) of the defect and at least one opportunity to cure the defect; (Sample letter)
  6. The defect persists and substantially impairs the vehicle’s use or market value, or creates a serious safety hazard.

How many chances does the dealer get to fix the problem?​

The law presumes you have given the manufacturer or authorized dealer a reasonable number of attempts to fix the defect if you pass one of the tests listed below. Determining if the dealer has had a reasonable number of repairs is easy. Simply see if you pass the four-times test, the serious safety-hazard test, or the 30-day test. The mileage requirements generally do not apply to TRVs or other vehicles that do not have an odometer.

Four-times test​

You pass the four-times test if you have taken the vehicle to a dealership for repairs:

  • Four times for the same defect within the first 24 months or 24,000 miles, whichever comes first, and the defect is still not repaired.

Serious safety-hazard test​

A serious safety hazard is a life-threatening malfunction that substantially impedes your ability to control or operate the vehicle normally or that creates a substantial risk of fire/explosion.

You pass the serious safety-hazard test if you have taken the vehicle for repair of a serious safety-hazard:

  • Twice during the first 24 months or 24,000 miles, whichever comes first, and the defect is still not repaired.

30-day test​

You pass the 30-day test if your vehicle has been out of service for repair because of a defect covered by the original factory warranty:

  • For a total of 30 days or more - not necessarily all at one time - during the first 24 months or 24,000 miles (if a comparable loaner vehicle was provided while the vehicle was being repaired, that time does not count toward the 30 days) a substantial defect still exists.

How long do I have to file a Lemon Law complaint?​

A Lemon Law complaint must be filed within six (6) months following the earlier of:

  1. Expiration of the express warranty term;
  2. 24 months after purchase; or
  3. 24,000 miles following the date of delivery of the vehicle (except TRVs).
The filing period is determined by which of the above events comes first. To be safe, the complaint should be filed as soon as the consumer realizes the dealer is having problems repairing the vehicle.

What happens if I win?​

The law provides basic guidelines for what type of relief you may get if you prove your case. Every situation is different. The department reviews the facts of each particular case when making a decision.

If you win your case, the department can order one of the following (Please Note: only new vehicles can qualify for a refund or replacement):

Refund​

The manufacturer must buy back the vehicle for the purchase price (including taxes, title and license fee) minus an amount charged for vehicle use. The amount deducted is decided according to a formula, (see spreadsheet links below) that takes into account the number of miles on the vehicle at the time of the hearing and other factors. This does not include any interest paid on the vehicle.

Replacement​

The manufacturer must replace the defective vehicle with one that is comparable to the original vehicle (usually same make, model and accessories) and acceptable to the consumer, minus the mileage used. The consumer is responsible for any vehicle upgrades.

Repair​

The manufacturer must fix the vehicle’s defects. Out-of-pocket expenses for repairs that should have been covered by the warranty may also be reimbursed.
 
The alternative is to go aftermarket once the problem becomes enough of an annoyance something has to be done. I'm at 9,000 miles and so far haven't experienced this issue, but being aware I'm already budgeting to upgrade the rotors and pads. IMO sometimes it's worth battling a manufacturer for warranty service, but when that service's "fix" is to swap inferior parts with the same inferior parts, it's time to avoid the hassle and emotional effort, and correct the problem myself.

I've had brakes on my prior non-sporty cars last 40k-80k miles before pads and/or rotors needed replacing. I'm assuming 40k with performance Brembos (not tracked) would be a reasonable expectation(?).
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Yes, I know there have been a zillion posts on this and I have also read the post about this not being rotor related and to do the hard stop, let the car sit etc.

When I began getting this vibration, I went to the dealer who said that I needed brake pads (no rotor issues) which were apparently better than what came with the car. At the same time, the service person is telling about how "delicate" the brakes are. He tells me not to brake hard, not to sit in stop and start traffic etc....all of these things will cause issues. Ok, I live in Dallas, so it's not like I can avoid sitting in traffic nor avoid idiots who turn in front of me which means I have to slam on the brakes. This is absolutely absurd!
So, I pay for a brake job and less than 2 months later the vibration is back. I took it for a second opinion and watched as they checked the rotors which are indeed warped. I go back to the dealership and he askes me about my driving etc. and says "oh, so the brakes did get hot." Really, yes! It's summer in Dallas and I drove my car so yes, i'm sure the brakes got hot. I tell him about the rotors etc. blah blah blah. He tells me he can't get me in for 3 weeks. He also said that some Stinger owners are choosing to upgrade their rotors which is $1000 +. It's just hard to believe that I should have to pay that kind of money for brakes for a new car. He's also sounding like the stock replacement rotors won't be covered under warranty.
As much as I love this car, i'm seriously considering getting rid of it. I don't know if I should get rid of it or suck up the $1000 to upgrade and hopefully enjoy the car longer with no more issues. I'm open to suggestions.
Thanks for letting me vent!
Which pads did you replace oem with?
 
Which pads did you replace oem with?
When the dealership did the brake job, they replaced them with what he said was a better version of what came with the car. He said that they had improved them from what came with the car.
I can't get into the dealership to get the present issue looked at for 3 weeks. The Service Manager is talking to Kia to see what they can do for me with the rotors. I'm waiting to hear back on that. Whatever comes of that will determine what I do next.
 
The alternative is to go aftermarket once the problem becomes enough of an annoyance something has to be done. I'm at 9,000 miles and so far haven't experienced this issue, but being aware I'm already budgeting to upgrade the rotors and pads. IMO sometimes it's worth battling a manufacturer for warranty service, but when that service's "fix" is to swap inferior parts with the same inferior parts, it's time to avoid the hassle and emotional effort, and correct the problem myself.

I've had brakes on my prior non-sporty cars last 40k-80k miles before pads and/or rotors needed replacing. I'm assuming 40k with performance Brembos (not tracked) would be a reasonable expectation(?).
I'm pretty much feeling the same as you on replacing inferior parts with the same. I would love if they would apply a discount to upgraded rotors and pads. Especially since I paid for a brake job less than 2 months ago.
I had my Prius for well over 100,000 miles and never had to replace the brakes.....same with most of my other cars.
It's so frustrating to love a car but have an issue like this.
 
When the dealership did the brake job, they replaced them with what he said was a better version of what came with the car. He said that they had improved them from what came with the car.
I can't get into the dealership to get the present issue looked at for 3 weeks. The Service Manager is talking to Kia to see what they can do for me with the rotors. I'm waiting to hear back on that. Whatever comes of that will determine what I do next.
hmmmm..... may be worth finding out what sort of 'better version' of pads they used
was it the same US oem? Euro spec eom? or aftermarket brand/type etc
worth finding out
given you said the vibes came back, i'm guessing he used the same US eom pads
Don't listen to him about getting fancy 2 piece rotors @ $1k to resolve this
not needed
just need a better brake pad.. and resurface rotor and make sure you bed new pads in properly
 
hmmmm..... may be worth finding out what sort of 'better version' of pads they used
was it the same US oem? Euro spec eom? or aftermarket brand/type etc
worth finding out
given you said the vibes came back, i'm guessing he used the same US eom pads
Don't listen to him about getting fancy 2 piece rotors @ $1k to resolve this
not needed
just need a better brake pad.. and resurface rotor and make sure you bed new pads in properly
I'm not sure "better pads" does anything. As in a better pad material? It's typically the size/shape and weight of the pads causing the vibrations, or at least contributing to the overall frequency. If you can change the frequency, typically that will fix the problem, because the system will no longer have the same frequency and vibrations won't be able to propagate/increase.

Different pads on the other hand, the whole point about vibrations like this is getting something different in there. Rotors are the same way, get a different rotor on there and the problem would likely be gone, different frequency.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
hmmmm..... may be worth finding out what sort of 'better version' of pads they used
was it the same US oem? Euro spec eom? or aftermarket brand/type etc
worth finding out
given you said the vibes came back, i'm guessing he used the same US eom pads
Don't listen to him about getting fancy 2 piece rotors @ $1k to resolve this
not needed
just need a better brake pad.. and resurface rotor and make sure you bed new pads in properly

100% agree.

I suffered through 4 warranty brake disk replacements before the 60,000 km brake warranty was expired (Canada has good brake warranty).

On my 4th replacement of all 4 disks - I drove home and slapped in some cheapie aftermarket pads... that was at 60,000kms. Now I have 70,000kms and brakes are silky smooth.


The exact pads I am using now - if you are curious are -screenshot
My car is a 2018
I am using pads without the weights in the front (no noises)

Cost effective solution - I consider it - resolved.

More details and pics here --> Stinger Brake Pads Replacement

Prices in CAD. surely cheaper in USD
1628884142033.webp
 
______________________________
100% agree.

I suffered through 4 warranty brake disk replacements before the 60,000 km brake warranty was expired (Canada has good brake warranty).

On my 4th replacement of all 4 disks - I drove home and slapped in some cheapie aftermarket pads... that was at 60,000kms. Now I have 70,000kms and brakes are silky smooth.


The exact pads I am using now - if you are curious are -screenshot
My car is a 2018
I am using pads without the weights in the front (no noises)

Cost effective solution - I consider it - resolved.

More details and pics here --> Stinger Brake Pads Replacement

Prices in CAD. surely cheaper in USD
View attachment 61881
Good info identifying a combo that works.
 
100% agree.

I suffered through 4 warranty brake disk replacements before the 60,000 km brake warranty was expired (Canada has good brake warranty).

On my 4th replacement of all 4 disks - I drove home and slapped in some cheapie aftermarket pads... that was at 60,000kms. Now I have 70,000kms and brakes are silky smooth.


The exact pads I am using now - if you are curious are -screenshot
My car is a 2018
I am using pads without the weights in the front (no noises)

Cost effective solution - I consider it - resolved.

More details and pics here --> Stinger Brake Pads Replacement

Prices in CAD. surely cheaper in USD
View attachment 61881
yep
I got my pads and rotors resurfaced twice for free by Kia back in 2018 as the shuddering braking at highway speeds occurred only a few thousand miles in, and also a few thousand miles after each time they replaced pads w new fresh pads.
Now i have cheaper r1concepts and cquence rotors (blanks, not drilled or slotted) is what I use, as well as the R1 optimum brake pads. So far no issues (fingers crossed). Took a gamble w the r1 optimum brake pads so time will tell... so far no issues
But others have said girodisc pads solved the issue as well so that is probably the safer route since more people have used that for significant miles
 
I’m in the UK and had the vibration when braking. The dealership changed the pads and discs under warranty but after a few thousand miles it started again. Last August the car came to the end of the lease and I was intending to buy it as I really loved the car but because of this issue I didn’t bother. I do miss it though.
 
I’m in the UK and had the vibration when braking. The dealership changed the pads and discs under warranty but after a few thousand miles it started again. Last August the car came to the end of the lease and I was intending to buy it as I really loved the car but because of this issue I didn’t bother. I do miss it though.
That's unfortunately. This brake pad material transfer issue such a well-known problem by now and so easy to fix, I don't understand why Kia can't seem to do it right. Apparently it's just not here in North America. Below is what mine looked like before I changed the pads myself. I didn't even bother to deal with the service dept., knowing how inept they are at dealing with this issue. I'd wanted to upgrade to more of a track-ready brake pad compound anyway.
img20220724151146-jpg.77473


There are a myriad of aftermarket brake pads that will not have this problem. As for the rotors, the stock ones work perfectly fine with good set of pads. This is, of course, as long as they are not heat-spotted, which can happen if you run the brakes hard with the deposits on them. Typically, resurfacing them is all you need to do when switching to a set of good pads.
 
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