Super baffled. Rear passenger side 1/2" lower than rear driver's side from factory

[I'm Tony Danza]

Obviously this is driving me bonkers if I am posting on Christmas and am looking for help. The rear passenger side fender well (and something in the suspension) is a full 1/2" lower than the driver's side.

Cliff notes:

- Installed ARK lowering springs, correctly. Immediately noticed how much lower the passenger side was. Factory tire is tucked under the fender, way too low.
- Swapped the springs around thinking it may be a bad spring, same issue.
- Looked at pics with the factory springs in place when I bought the car a couple of years ago....lo and behold, the rear passenger side was 1/2" lower from the factory.
- All bushings/isolators/springs are correctly in place.
- Every bolt was torqued with the suspension loaded at ride-height.
- Driver's side rear and both front's are perfect.
- Pro Alignment has been done and is correct.

This will be an issue as I am installing new much wider wheels/tires in a few days.

- Back in the day, one would rotate/clock the coil spring to raise/lower an uneven side, but the Stinger's lower isolators obviously don't call for that option, as there is a "seated position" built-in. Or you would slap in a coil spacer and call it a successful fix.
- I thought the lower isolator could have been rotated backwards from the factory, since the final clocking positions are opposite when comparing passenger/driver's, but the isolators can only be installed one way from the factory. To me, it looks if the passenger side spring could be rotated 180* safely, it would raise the side back up and be in the same position as the driver's side.

Thoughts, as I put my head into the spiked eggnog?

 

[I'm Tony Danza]

Visual stimulation:

Driver's factory settings:




Passenger's factory settings, sag:

 

[MerlintheMad]

All I have to contribute is that I've read about this complaint once before. And just like that post, I cannot tell from the pics attached that there is a one-half inch difference. You are "on the ground" and can see it, I've no doubt. But it doesn't show up in the pics, at least not to my observation.

As for what causes this, I'm sorry that I have no insight. Good luck!

 

[I'm Tony Danza]

All I have to contribute is that I've read about this complaint once before. And just like that post, I cannot tell from the pics attached that there is a one-half inch difference. You are "on the ground" and can see it, I've no doubt. But it doesn't show up in the pics, at least not to my observation.

As for what causes this, I'm sorry that I have no insight. Good luck!

Yes, it it admittedly tough to see with general pictures and the difference does show up in other examples that I have. As with a very small minority of members having the same issue and most not having it, I would guess it was a temporary factory error and there must be some sort of solution or something easy I am not seeing. Or....something non-factory that could safely fix it.

 

[D.J.]

I realize I am asking what seem like far fetched questions, but hey... You already answered the obvious ones.

1. When you check the height differences - this is done on good known to be flat pavement/concrete (I find often gas stations have a good level concrete pad)

2. When you say the bushing were torqued with the suspension loaded - were they also tightened/snugged prior to torquing with the suspension loaded?

3. Have you measured from the ground to the body (wheel well). Perhaps others could share their measurements as well to see if there is something going on. I'm running out of idea's

I am aware the answers to these questions are probably "yes". But much like you, I am perplexed.

 

[I'm Tony Danza]

I realize I am asking what seem like far fetched questions, but hey... You already answered the obvious ones.

1. When you check the height differences - this is done on good known to be flat pavement/concrete (I find often gas stations have a good level concrete pad)

2. When you say the bushing were torqued with the suspension loaded - were they also tightened/snugged prior to torquing with the suspension loaded?

3. Have you measured from the ground to the body (wheel well). Perhaps others could share their measurements as well to see if there is something going on. I'm running out of idea's

I am aware the answers to these questions are probably "yes". But much like you, I am perplexed.

Hey D.J.

1. Yeah, our garage is nice and flat and I have noticed it elsewhere

2. Yes, tightened and torqued with the suspension loaded

3. Only measured with a tape after lowering. Didn't think to measure the factory settings, as I didn't foresee all of this. After the lowering, the sagging corner is 25 1/2" to the fender well. All other corners are 26 1/8"


The thought of putting heater/fuel hose on both ends of the spring is crossing my mind. As long as the hose is 1/4" thick and I put it on both ends, it should (in my non-engineering degree mind) lift the sagging corner the 1/2" I need. Assuming it fits into the isolators correctly. Any other ideas are obviously welcomed!

 

[Kamauxx]

You're measuring from the ground to fender? Because that will be effected by lower tire pressure, less tread on tires, parking on a rock/stick, etc.

Measuring from hub to fender will give you a more accurate reading.

 

[nhcowboy28]

You're measuring from the ground to fender? Because that will be effected by lower tire pressure, less tread on tires, parking on a rock/stick, etc.

Measuring from hub to fender will give you a more accurate reading.

This!!

Eibach insisted I measure from hub/wheel fender as well for the very same reason. (My issue was total drop was less than advertised by a large factor).

 

[D.J.]

Hey D.J.

1. Yeah, our garage is nice and flat and I have noticed it elsewhere

2. Yes, tightened and torqued with the suspension loaded

3. Only measured with a tape after lowering. Didn't think to measure the factory settings, as I didn't foresee all of this. After the lowering, the sagging corner is 25 1/2" to the fender well. All other corners are 26 1/8"


The thought of putting heater/fuel hose on both ends of the spring is crossing my mind. As long as the hose is 1/4" thick and I put it on both ends, it should (in my non-engineering degree mind) lift the sagging corner the 1/2" I need. Assuming it fits into the isolators correctly. Any other ideas are obviously welcomed!

Reasonable idea.

Keep in mind the suspension leverage ratio of approx 2:1 based on spring location along the lever.

Approx ¼" increase length of spring would yeild approx ½” ride height increase.

 

[I'm Tony Danza]

This!!

Eibach insisted I measure from hub/wheel fender as well for the very same reason. (My issue was total drop was less than advertised by a large factor).

100% understood on this idea and yes, the hub measurements are also different. There is something outside of the factory/ARK springs that is causing this odd issue.

 

[I'm Tony Danza]

Reasonable idea.

Keep in mind the suspension leverage ratio of approx 2:1 based on spring location along the lever.

Approx ¼" increase length of spring would yeild approx ½” ride height increase.


View attachment 66364

I do hear you on this. Curious if slipping over a small length of heater/fuel hose would still apply to the 2:1 ratio, since that is changing the height of the spring, rather than the length?

Now if I rotated the spring in the lower isolator (raising it in the process), then that would effectively "change" its length and stay within the 2:1 ratio idea, correct...?

I might just try both methods and see what the results are, but which would be the "best" is the question. I do wonder if I rotated the spring away from its resting stop that it would eventually work its way back down...but that would seem to take a lot of force to do so, considering the amount of pressure placed on the installed spring.

 

[D.J.]

I do hear you on this. Curious if slipping over a small length of heater/fuel hose would still apply to the 2:1 ratio, since that is changing the height of the spring, rather than the length?

Now if I rotated the spring in the lower isolator (raising it in the process), then that would effectively "change" its length and stay within the 2:1 ratio idea, correct...?

I might just try both methods and see what the results are, but which would be the "best" is the question. I do wonder if I rotated the spring away from its resting stop that it would eventually work its way back down...but that would seem to take a lot of force to do so, considering the amount of pressure placed on the installed spring.

The rotating the spring in the isolator... Could work, but no idea how permanent that would be. Would it slip back? Totally unknown to me.

The approx 2:1 ratio woild apply to the entire effective length/height of dlyhr spring.


Is it possible your one side control arm is somehow bent? I think a detailed close inspection might be needed.

You shouldn't have to "tune" the height using the isolators or heater hose. Something must be bent. Such as shown here with yellow lines? Perhaps.

 

[I'm Tony Danza]

The rotating the spring in the isolator... Could work, but no idea how permanent that would be. Would it slip back? Totally unknown to me.

The approx 2:1 ratio woild apply to the entire effective length/height of dlyhr spring.


Is it possible your one side control arm is somehow bent? I think a detailed close inspection might be needed.

You shouldn't have to "tune" the height using the isolators or heater hose. Something must be bent. Such as shown here with yellow lines? Perhaps.

View attachment 66370

So I spent hours inspecting everything and was at a complete loss. There could be hidden mm somewhere that is being multiplied along the way, but I couldn't find a thing. 1000% agree that I shouldn't have to "tune" things.

Grudgingly, I rotated the bottom half of the spring about an inch away from it's factory resting spot. It worked and raised that sagging corner about 1/2", which is what I needed and both hubs are equal distance to the fenders. It's not what I would recommend to another as a pro by any stretch of the imagination, but I have to see what it does until someone else with this rare case solves it with the correct methodology.

Thanks for the help thus far everyone and Happy New Year, cheers.

 

[D.J.]

So I spent hours inspecting everything and was at a complete loss. There could be hidden mm somewhere that is being multiplied along the way, but I couldn't find a thing. 1000% agree that I shouldn't have to "tune" things.

Grudgingly, I rotated the bottom half of the spring about an inch away from it's factory resting spot. It worked and raised that sagging corner about 1/2", which is what I needed and both hubs are equal distance to the fenders. It's not what I would recommend to another as a pro by any stretch of the imagination, but I have to see what it does until someone else with this rare case solves it with the correct methodology.

Thanks for the help thus far everyone and Happy New Year, cheers.

And for sure ., The issue isn't with the other side being "high" for some reason?

Is there any chance you have been fighting with the wrong side? And the high side needs to be seated better somehow?

 

[SRV]

Did you buy it new or used?

If used, it could have been damaged by the previous owner.

If purchased new, bring it in and get it fixed under warranty.

BTW, on our 928's, we check ride height by measuring from the floor to a specific point on the suspension. The ride height is adjustable via a threaded collar on the shock at all four corners.

Does the Stinger have adjustable threaded shock collars?

 

[D.J.]

Did you buy it new or used?

If used, it could have been damaged by the previous owner.

If purchased new, bring it in and get it fixed under warranty.

BTW, on our 928's, we check ride height by measuring from the floor to a specific point on the suspension. The ride height is adjustable via a threaded collar on the shock at all four corners.

Does the Stinger have adjustable threaded shock collars?

He has aftermarket springs....

The service deparent would laugh at the thought of a warranty ride height request.


The Stinger only has electronic controlled variable damping, with fixed height. Non adjustable height.

 

[I'm Tony Danza]

Did you buy it new or used?

If used, it could have been damaged by the previous owner.

If purchased new, bring it in and get it fixed under warranty.

BTW, on our 928's, we check ride height by measuring from the floor to a specific point on the suspension. The ride height is adjustable via a threaded collar on the shock at all four corners.

Does the Stinger have adjustable threaded shock collars?

I purchased it brand new.

And as mentioned by DJ, there is no way Kia would even give me the time of day...even if I reverted back to stock springs or went in before the install. They would say the factory 1/2" sag was within spec or if they did take it in, they would keep it in the parking lot and glance in its general direction, saying they did their best.

I'll be curious about this one for a long time, since at least two other forum members have the exact same issue. Hope my spring rotation "fix" will be a permanent one....or I'll just throw a bunch of money at Ark and have them build me a one-off GT-S spring that is 1/2" higher

 

[G-243167]

Old thread. Same thing I just noticed on mine. Ark-f springs and the front passenger side fender os 25.5inch from ground while all the others are 26.25 weirdness man. I have a very slight rub over bumps just that front passenger side..

 

[D.J.]

Old thread. Same thing I just noticed on mine. Ark-f springs and the front passenger side fender os 25.5inch from ground while all the others are 26.25 weirdness man. I have a very slight rub over bumps just that front passenger side..

What rubs?

 

[Ozstung]

Old thread. Same thing I just noticed on mine. Ark-f springs and the front passenger side fender os 25.5inch from ground while all the others are 26.25 weirdness man. I have a very slight rub over bumps just that front passenger side..

I had the same issue had Kia do a diagnostic test on all 4 corners. The bastards failed to read the report the way i did. A year later they admitted i had a faulty shock absorber. Got it fixed under warranty did save me the numerous wheel alignments i endured.