3.3TT Stroker

[Joey P No. 3]

Does anyone know if there is a stroker kit available for the 3.3TT engines? a boost in displacement would be unreal

 

[Aarvix]

None that I've seen. Not many people opening the motor on a 2yr old car with 100k mi warranty.

I think the upcoming 3.5 is a stroked 3.3, you should swap the reciprocating assy and let us know how it works!

 

[Joey P No. 3]

Idk why I thought there’d be an exuberant amount of aftermarket components for the engine in such a new car. I guess youthful optimism and my other project cars. Granted, the LS and 4.6 4v have been around 10x longer than Lambda II

 

[Hawk853]

Does anyone know if there is a stroker kit available for the 3.3TT engines? a boost in displacement would be unreal

I spoke with Dustin at Brian Crower about it. Like my 1GR-FE, which isn’t a popular engine to build, it took some rich guy in UAE to pay for the first stoker crank to be built for his FJ Cruiser. That’s the only reason I‘m able to build that engine to that degree. Moral is, it’s going to take a highly motivated Stinger owner to make that one happen.

Our engines are open deck blocks, so regardless of how much power we want, that’s a limitation. Spoke with Jeff at Cylinder Support System – cylindersupportsystem.com
He makes cylinder supports to close the deck on our engines. The next step would be iron wet sleeves. Heat becomes an issue, but the bore can be increased with these. Darton has yet to make them for our engines. They may be convinced to do a set if someone sends them a block and the required fist full of cash.

If you have the engine apart and a knowledgeable engine builder to take measurements, you can order custom Carrillo rods without a problem.

Even if they change the Stinger Engine in coming model years, I’m hoping the basic block design remains similar enough so internal mods cross over and it’s worth the effort for these companies to make us parts.
Once my car is old and beaten I’ll start looking at a full engine build.

 

[Joey P No. 3]

I spoke with Dustin at Brian Crower about it. Like my 1GR-FE, which isn’t a popular engine to build, it took some rich guy in UAE to pay for the first stoker crank to be built for his FJ Cruiser. That’s the only reason I‘m able to build that engine to that degree. Moral is, it’s going to take a highly motivated Stinger owner to make that one happen. View attachment 48177

Our engines are open deck blocks, so regardless of how much power we want, that’s a limitation. Spoke with Jeff at Cylinder Support System – cylindersupportsystem.com
He makes cylinder supports to close the deck on our engines. The next step would be iron wet sleeves. Heat becomes an issue, but the bore can be increased with these. Darton has yet to make them for our engines. They may be convinced to do a set of someone sends them a block and the required fist full of cash.

If you have the engine apart and a knowledgeable engine builder to take measurements, you can order custom Carrillo rods without a problem.

Even if they change the Stinger Engine in coming model years, I’m hoping the basic block design remains similar enough so internal mods cross over and it’s worth the effort for these companies to make us parts.
Once my car is old and beaten I’ll start looking at a full engine build.

So a fist full of dollars, my engine, and my mechanic (former professional engine builder). Sounds easy enough if I get back to work soon. Thanks for all the intel. If I haggle a good deal on my Stinger buyout I’ll proceed to do wild antics

 

[Aarvix]

Regardless of the question, the answer is always LS swap.

 

[Travis Wills]

Wouldn’t it be more productive to just work on increasing the boost and using a better intercooler? Our 3.3 liter engine is already significantly larger than the 3.0 liter competition. I don’t really want more displacement. I just want more boost and more horsepower higher in the rev range.

 

[Joey P No. 3]

Wouldn’t it be more productive to just work on increasing the boost and using a better intercooler? Our 3.3 liter engine is already significantly larger than the 3.0 liter competition. I don’t really want more displacement. I just want more boost and more horsepower higher in the rev range.

 

[SafetyPilotCal]

In every non-LS/Hemi/Coyote car community I've been in over the years inevitably there is always discussion about a stroker kit. And it always goes the same way - generally some moderate excitement at first when no other big power options exist (no big boost upgrades, no cam upgrades, people still trying to figure out the ins-and-outs of seriously tuning, fueling roadblocks, etc.). Over time as turbo/supercharger upgrades, cams, and comprehensive tuning solutions start becoming commonplace for the platform, interest in stroker kits goes away.

The reason is simple: the overwhelming majority owners just want a significant seat-of-the-pants horsepower bump and aren't looking to make record-breaking power. They aren't willing to dump tens of thousands of dollars into engine and transmission builds and sacrifice reliability and drivability to chase some arbitrary horsepower number. Stroker kits are one of those "I've literally exhausted every other option for power, and I still want more" solutions. Once these cars get out of warranty, and we have a way to build a stout transmission, at the point that big turbo upgrades and HPTuners-like ease-of-tuning becomes a thing, people will start considering hardcore engine modifications. Until then, you're unlikely to see much fanfare around the idea.

The Ford Modular has a massive aftermarket today because it debuted in the early 1990s, had abysmal stock power for the displacement, and then had the fortune of being shoved in sports cars. The 3.3T has adequate power stock for most owners and been relegated to big luxobarges, grand touring cars, and sports sedans that are sold in tiny numbers. It's not surprising there's minimal aftermarket for the platform at the 2-3 year mark.

 

[Joey P No. 3]

The 3.3T has adequate power stock for most owners and been relegated to big luxobarges, grand touring cars, and sports sedans that are sold in tiny numbers.

... are you suggesting an Lambda II MR2 swap?

 

[SafetyPilotCal]

I support any ridiculous engine swap into a Mister Two. Or a Fiero.

 

[Travis Wills]

View attachment 48234

If you stroke an engine without increasing the head volume then you will increase the compression ratio. Increasing the compression ratio means it is more likely to knock. That makes increasing the boost harder.

You are fighting yourself if you increase displacement and compression ratio while simultaneously trying to increase boost.

I would almost like to DECREASE displacement so that we could reduce compression ratio. That would make high boost options much easier and also mean that high rpm torque might be easier to maintain.

 

[Hawk853]

If you stroke an engine without increasing the head volume then you will increase the compression ratio. Increasing the compression ratio means it is more likely to knock. That makes increasing the boost harder.

You are fighting yourself if you increase displacement and compression ratio while simultaneously trying to increase boost.

I would almost like to DECREASE displacement so that we could reduce compression ratio. That would make high boost options much easier and also mean that high rpm torque might be easier to maintain.

Not true, don’t shoot from the hip with advice spreading misinformation. It doesn’t help anyone and it doesn’t make you look smart.

Show me someone who buys a stroker crank and isn’t setting the engine up right. It isn’t a bolt on part like an intake. It’s part of a complete engine build, there’s nothing cheap or uninvolved about it. For some, it’s a two fold benefit where power goals are so high a billet crank is needed and the extra displacement is a bonus.

Most are offered as kits to save time with setting up rod clearances to the block, valve clearances, custom pistons, and oiler problems to name a few. V6 stroker kits that include crank, rods, pistons and high strength hardware are in the $5000-7000 range normally. I’ve built one sourcing my own rods and such and am building one from a kit this time around; way less headache. Even so, I had to have a special tool made to pull my crank timer and custom torque plates to bore and hone my cylinders. You also have to contend with spending lots of money finding what popular engine ARP makes fasteners for. I had to have Supra headbolts machined down for example. A friend had a custom block girdle made... $$$$.
This is all after a handful of other guys had already blazed the trail. If you’re first in the shoot, you and/or your builder will expend lots of time and money figuring things out. The first 1GR stroker crank required revision. I won’t even start on engine management.

I’ll agree with a lot of sentiment from other posters that there’s a lot more bang for the buck available to increase power in the sub 600hp realm. Custom turbos and plumbing will push the internals of this engine to the limit. Forged rods and pistons will get you pretty far if this engine does in fact come with a forged crank. One mod will dictate a series of others.

I’m just enjoying the Stinger for what it is for now.

 

[turboAWD]

Seriously, if you bought this car expecting to have Mustang/Camaro/Charger level of parts/kits/crate engines available, you bought the wrong car..

 

[Joey P No. 3]

Damn, guess I got the wrong car

 

[oddball]

All depends on your goals.
Sure, 700HP is pretty hard to reach, but some folks are marching their way towards it.
400-450 HP is incredibly easy, and at that point you're at the limits of street power for the platform. Sure you can make use of more at the strip, but on the street you'll just blow the tires loose all the time.

 

[Kimberly Lazarski]

watching this thread ^_^

 

[Joey P No. 3]

All depends on your goals.
Sure, 700HP is pretty hard to reach, but some folks are marching their way towards it.
400-450 HP is incredibly easy, and at that point you're at the limits of street power for the platform. Sure you can make use of more at the strip, but on the street you'll just blow the tires loose all the time.

That’s why I went with AWD so ha!

 

[G-654393]

Regardless of the question, the answer is always LS swap.

Woah m, ya know it might fit