Stinger vibrates violently when accelerating or when standstill in Drive

[SFM]

I was driving normally on the road until I felt like flooring the pedal once, and when I did that, the check engine light came on. The car started to violently vibrate whenever I accelerated, even lightly. It also vibrated when standstill in Drive, but it didn't vibrate in Neutral. I stopped and got it towed on a flatbed to the dealership, but the check engine light went away when we arrived there, and the car was driving fine. They checked it for error codes, and they couldn't find anything in history. What would cause that? Since then, I have driven the car, and it's been fine for now. It's completely stock, also.

 

[DoctorStiches]

Traction control? Maybe transmision slip/grab/slip then it fixed itself? Hmmmmmmm mysterious

 

[AtomicGTL]

I was driving normally on the road until I felt like flooring the pedal once, and when I did that, the check engine light came on. The car started to violently vibrate whenever I accelerated, even lightly. It also vibrated when standstill in Drive, but it didn't vibrate in Neutral. I stopped and got it towed on a flatbed to the dealership, but the check engine light went away when we arrived there, and the car was driving fine. They checked it for error codes, and they couldn't find anything in history. What would cause that? Since then, I have driven the car, and it's been fine for now. It's completely stock, also.

Have you floored it since then?

 

[SFM]

Have you floored it since then?

Yes, and it’s totally normal now. Not sure what happened that time other than the check engine light and strong vibrations with the slightest touch on the pedal.

 

[AtomicGTL]

Yes, and it’s totally normal now. Not sure what happened that time other than the check engine light and strong vibrations with the slightest touch on the pedal.

Hmm depends, maybe the engine wasnt warm enough. Road conditions such as transaction as DoctorStiches stated.

Dont understand the check engine light part though. Hopefully take it as a little blunder and all is well now.

 

[MerlintheMad]

I can't tell you what happened. Nobody can. Complex interrelating parts/systems, and then outside input/factors. I started getting hesitation (chugging) and determined that it was my increasing "spirited" driving style, causing lugging of the engine by not downshifting far enough with the paddle shifters in manual gate. Lately, I've taken to letting the car shift for itself, heh. And that combined with less demand for heavy boost has eliminated the issue. Yours sounds like a more extreme case of possibly the same thing. If you jammed down on the accelerator in Comfort or Eco, I think that can bring on a CEL and rough running as the car tries to catch up to your sporty driving demand not in Sport mode. You didn't give enough details. When I am not in Sport mode, and I want something close to WOT (kickdown switch), I will press smoothly: I won't punch the accelerator. I've had the CEL come on exactly once, and then go out when I backed off after feeling the engine hesitate/chug before finally delivering full power. I've never felt the engine run rough or idle rough. So, we are not able to tell if the same experience is a minor manifestation (mine) compared to a major manifestation (yours) of a similar driving style or habit.

Sorry that your codes didn't stay for the techs to see. But I'm glad that the alarming roughness went away along with the disappears codes.

 

[SFM]

I can't tell you what happened. Nobody can. Complex interrelating parts/systems, and then outside input/factors. I started getting hesitation (chugging) and determined that it was my increasing "spirited" driving style, causing lugging of the engine by not downshifting far enough with the paddle shifters in manual gate. Lately, I've taken to letting the car shift for itself, heh. And that combined with less demand for heavy boost has eliminated the issue. Yours sounds like a more extreme case of possibly the same thing. If you jammed down on the accelerator in Comfort or Eco, I think that can bring on a CEL and rough running as the car tries to catch up to your sporty driving demand not in Sport mode. You didn't give enough details. When I am not in Sport mode, and I want something close to WOT (kickdown switch), I will press smoothly: I won't punch the accelerator. I've had the CEL come on exactly once, and then go out when I backed off after feeling the engine hesitate/chug before finally delivering full power. I've never felt the engine run rough or idle rough. So, we are not able to tell if the same experience is a minor manifestation (mine) compared to a major manifestation (yours) of a similar driving style or habit.

Sorry that your codes didn't stay for the techs to see. But I'm glad that the alarming roughness went away along with the disappears codes.

Thank you. I had it in sport mode, but I don't remember if it was in manual or drive. When it happened, I took the closest exit from the highway, and that exit had a red light, and when I stopped completely, the car was vibrating unbearably in Drive but goes away in Neutral. I had a rough time accelerating when the light turned green as the car was vibrating strongly on every little press on the gas.

I then stopped at the side of the road and called my insurance to get their free towing service. I turned off the car until the tow truck arrived, and when I started the engine, the check engine light was still there with the vibrations. After it was towed to the dealership, I started the engine to get it off the tow truck, and the check engine light wasn't there, and the car was driving normally. I had the dealership check it for error codes, and they couldn't find anything. I hope that doesn't happen again

 

[Floridaman]

This might be overkill but I keep an OBD2 scanner (BlueDriver) in my car just in case something like this happens so I can tun it on, log the event, and show my mechanic when I get the car in. Otherwise I'm never able to replicate the issue and my mechanic just thinks I'm delusional. Saves me a lot of frustration.

 

[7Andrei7]

I had the dealership check it for error codes, and they couldn't find anything.

I really believe this is THE WORST thing about the Stinger. I've never seen a car so bad at storing errors. Mine never stored anything. Not simple errors, like a faulty parking sensor, but also none of the serious ones like the starter motor failing or the torque converter (!!!). Makes the diagnosing process a nightmare as you always have to have a technician with you in the car and replicate the error. Good luck!
What bunch of morons designed that system I don't know. My '96 Opel Astra was storing check-engine errors ffs

 

[nhcowboy28]

I can't tell you what happened. Nobody can. Complex interrelating parts/systems, and then outside input/factors. I started getting hesitation (chugging) and determined that it was my increasing "spirited" driving style, causing lugging of the engine by not downshifting far enough with the paddle shifters in manual gate. Lately, I've taken to letting the car shift for itself, heh. And that combined with less demand for heavy boost has eliminated the issue. Yours sounds like a more extreme case of possibly the same thing. If you jammed down on the accelerator in Comfort or Eco, I think that can bring on a CEL and rough running as the car tries to catch up to your sporty driving demand not in Sport mode. You didn't give enough details. When I am not in Sport mode, and I want something close to WOT (kickdown switch), I will press smoothly: I won't punch the accelerator. I've had the CEL come on exactly once, and then go out when I backed off after feeling the engine hesitate/chug before finally delivering full power. I've never felt the engine run rough or idle rough. So, we are not able to tell if the same experience is a minor manifestation (mine) compared to a major manifestation (yours) of a similar driving style or habit.

Sorry that your codes didn't stay for the techs to see. But I'm glad that the alarming roughness went away along with the disappears codes.

Four score and seven years…

 

[DoctorStiches]

I dont have major issues with my stinger but it did always show me the code for my missfire and which cylinder was missing :/

 

[SFM]

This might be overkill but I keep an OBD2 scanner (BlueDriver) in my car just in case something like this happens so I can tun it on, log the event, and show my mechanic when I get the car in. Otherwise I'm never able to replicate the issue and my mechanic just thinks I'm delusional. Saves me a lot of frustration.

I think this is what I will do since the car will probably never store any error codes.

 

[byebyeSTI]

coils/ plugs

 

[stoopid]

This might be overkill but I keep an OBD2 scanner (BlueDriver) in my car just in case something like this happens so I can tun it on, log the event, and show my mechanic when I get the car in. Otherwise I'm never able to replicate the issue and my mechanic just thinks I'm delusional. Saves me a lot of frustration.

Definitely NOT overkill when the bluetooth obd is like $20 or less and the Torq app for android is free to pull (document/check) and clear codes. It's saved me a few times, one of them the dealer initially tried to tell me a transmission issue* it took them 2.5 weeks to fix was "no big deal". Looking up the codes myself indicated otherwise and they were forced to address it, rather than have me get stranded an hour or day later.

[* the transmission issue was not with a Kia]

 

[Xray99]

I just had the same issue as the original post (during the Christmas break). I.e. the car was driving fine, until I went to overtake (hit more gas). Then it started shuddering etc. I called roadside assist and the guy had an OBD2 scanner. The fault code was "Misfire on cylinder 6". When the tech guy took it for a drive it initially was fine again, until we accelerated hard. So, it appears that turning off and restarting the engine clears the fault. I drove the car home and changed the spark plug (I had a spare). It seemed to be OK, but the issue came back again later in the week. I now realise that the issue is related to temperature - more prevalent on hot days - especially if I have driven and then parked up for a while before driving off again. I called KIA and have ordered a replacement coil. They have none in stock and have to wait for one from Korea (up to 4 weeks, groan)!

 

[DoctorStiches]

Ju

I just had the same issue as the original post (during the Christmas break). I.e. the car was driving fine, until I went to overtake (hit more gas). Then it started shuddering etc. I called roadside assist and the guy had an OBD2 scanner. The fault code was "Misfire on cylinder 6". When the tech guy took it for a drive it initially was fine again, until we accelerated hard. So, it appears that turning off and restarting the engine clears the fault. I drove the car home and changed the spark plug (I had a spare). It seemed to be OK, but the issue came back again later in the week. I now realise that the issue is related to temperature - more prevalent on hot days - especially if I have driven and then parked up for a while before driving off again. I called KIA and have ordered a replacement coil. They have none in stock and have to wait for one from Korea (up to 4 weeks, groan)!

Just replace the plugs . Im a car guy. When my car says missfire i go get plugs first.
My dealer was also not able to reproduce the missfire.

Also 91+ octane fuel required

 

[byebyeSTI]

I just had the same issue as the original post (during the Christmas break). I.e. the car was driving fine, until I went to overtake (hit more gas). Then it started shuddering etc. I called roadside assist and the guy had an OBD2 scanner. The fault code was "Misfire on cylinder 6". When the tech guy took it for a drive it initially was fine again, until we accelerated hard. So, it appears that turning off and restarting the engine clears the fault. I drove the car home and changed the spark plug (I had a spare). It seemed to be OK, but the issue came back again later in the week. I now realise that the issue is related to temperature - more prevalent on hot days - especially if I have driven and then parked up for a while before driving off again. I called KIA and have ordered a replacement coil. They have none in stock and have to wait for one from Korea (up to 4 weeks, groan)!

i told you that last week

 

[CrashBandit GT Sky]

Ju

Just replace the plugs . Im a car guy. When my car says missfire i go get plugs first.
My dealer was also not able to reproduce the missfire.

Also 91+ octane fuel required

Replace all of them ??? Had coils replaced and half of spark plugs replaced with oem

 

[G-412857]

I just had the same issue as the original post (during the Christmas break). I.e. the car was driving fine, until I went to overtake (hit more gas). Then it started shuddering etc. I called roadside assist and the guy had an OBD2 scanner. The fault code was "Misfire on cylinder 6". When the tech guy took it for a drive it initially was fine again, until we accelerated hard. So, it appears that turning off and restarting the engine clears the fault. I drove the car home and changed the spark plug (I had a spare). It seemed to be OK, but the issue came back again later in the week. I now realise that the issue is related to temperature - more prevalent on hot days - especially if I have driven and then parked up for a while before driving off again. I called KIA and have ordered a replacement coil. They have none in stock and have to wait for one from Korea (up to 4 weeks, groan)!

Did the replacement coil fix the issue? My stinger did the same thing yesterday as the original post. Just curious as to what to do about this.