Stinger GT line upgrading to GT2

[BrocStar]

Hello all.
I have owned my ‘GT line in ceramic silver for a year now.. I have about $21,000 in equity in it and was one of the first ones to get my hands on the 2.5 liter in April 2021. I love the car, but the guy in me wants to upgrade to the bigger motor. Of course I wanted to do this a while back but I couldn’t find the right one. I spoke to the dealer about service and asked them about doing so. Since I bought my fiirst car there they said they would work it out with me. I do have one small dent on the body right about the right tire from a minor hit and run. Another dealer didn’t even notice it. So my first question is, is it worth it to do the upgrade? By Coincidence the dealer told me they have a GT2 in ceramic silver (love this color) in the grand touring model. IMO it looks like the scorpion model. The MSRP $54,890., with three trade in and another 5k. I should be able to keep my goal of $500-$550 payments. With that said is it that much more performance and power for the cost? I was thinking of doing some mods to it in the future and keeping it for a long time. I am also a little skeptical of the suede interior. My final question is should I get the dent fixed before I do the deal or see what I can do with it on there?
Thanks for any advice.

 

[MerlintheMad]

Paintless dent removal is your way forward, from all that I've read and been told about it: there are veritable miracle stories of "before and after": if your dent really is hardly noticeable, it will be an easy paintless dent removal fix.

$55K MSRP, you must need that 3.3L in the worst way.

 

[Dan00Hawk]

I'm satisfied with the GT Line 2.5t, and cured my itch for a bit more power by adding a JB4 module. But if you are going to want even more, then getting the 3.3tt and modding that is certainly the way to go.

Only you can determine if the additional cost is worth it. One thing about buying your way into more speed: You'll ALWAYS want a little more!

Also, one or two minor PDR dings don't typically detract from the value of the vehicle, as "in house", a dealer can get them fixed for under $100. I'd fix it if you plan on keeping the car, or if you can have that done yourself for the same or less. Otherwise, don't sweat it if trading in soon...

 

[BrocStar]

I'm satisfied with the GT Line 2.5t, and cured my itch for a bit more power by adding a JB4 module. But if you are going to want even more, then getting the 3.3tt and modding that is certainly the way to go.

Only you can determine if the additional cost is worth it. One thing about buying your way into more speed: You'll ALWAYS want a little more!

Also, one or two minor PDR dings don't typically detract from the value of the vehicle, as "in house", a dealer can get them fixed for under $100. I'd fix it if you plan on keeping the car, or if you can have that done yourself for the same or less. Otherwise, don't sweat it if trading in soon...

Thank you. Yeah I was thinking the dealer would fix it right up. I actually did a comparison with another dealer before but they were a**holes so I walked out. I’m going back to the dealer I used originally. Does 54k sound out of the ball park for GT2 ?

 

[JSolo]

How much of a hit are you going to take on the current car?

More power is always nice, but it's also a heavier car and drinks more fuel.

Do a proper test drive of the 6 cyl (not around the block), only you can make the determination if it's right for you.

The 2.5T is about onpar with the usable power I had in the previous G37 ('12 3.7L 6mt). I can improve its handling with sway bars, but otherwise the car is more advanced (still miss the G). The 3.3 will have more low end grunt. If you're the type of person who likes to race light to light then you need more power.

At this stage of the game the 2.5T is sufficient for me in terms of a well rounded package.

 

[BrocStar]

I'm satisfied with the GT Line 2.5t, and cured my itch for a bit more power by adding a JB4 module. But if you are going to want even more, then getting the 3.3tt and modding that is certainly the way to go.

Only you can determine if the additional cost is worth it. One thing about buying your way into more speed: You'll ALWAYS want a little more!

Also, one or two minor PDR dings don't typically detract from the value of the vehicle, as "in house", a dealer can get them fixed for under $100. I'd fix it if you plan on keeping the car, or if you can have that done yourself for the same or less. Otherwise, don't sweat it if trading in soon...

What kind of hp and torque are you getting with the jb4 kit ? Increase 0-60?

Paintless dent removal is your way forward, from all that I've read and been told about it: there are veritable miracle stories of "before and after": if your dent really is hardly noticeable, it will be an easy paintless dent removal fix.

$55K MSRP, you must need that 3.3L in the worst way.

Does that sound out of the ballpark with msrp. I was thinking as in resale price staying higher for the 3L on the long term. Especially if they discontinue the car after 2023. I heard it might happen. There new electric sports

How much of a hit are you going to take on the current car?

More power is always nice, but it's also a heavier car and drinks more fuel.

Do a proper test drive of the 6 cyl (not around the block), only you can make the determination if it's right for you.

The 2.5T is about onpar with the usable power I had in the previous G37 ('12 3.7L 6mt). I can improve its handling with sway bars, but otherwise the car is more advanced (still miss the G). The 3.3 will have more low end grunt. If you're the type of person who likes to race light to light then you need more power.

At this stage of the game the 2.5T is sufficient for me in terms of a well rounded package.

i do not think I will take much of a hit as I got it for 36-37. The last dealer offered me 36k. My main thought process is the 3.3 L will retain more value over long haul and after the warranty is up I can keep it and do more mods. I love the 2.5 T and just looking at options. If the numbers don’t work out I’ll keep the current so it’s a win win for me.
More power isn’t always better but I do like the low end grunt.

 

[JSolo]

Assume your loss is $0 on getting rid of the car. That extra $20K+, something you can swing over a period of x months? What about insurance? If it all aligns and seems right, go for it.

 

[BrocStar]

Assume your loss is $0 on getting rid of the car. That extra $20K+, something you can swing over a period of x months? What about insurance? If it all aligns and seems right, go for it.

Yeah. I’m just assuming I have a zero loss. But even if they give me 33k I’m only down three. With the equity, and price looks like my payment will only go up about 200$-$150 more. Which with my income is totally doable. They do have an AWD there currently 2022 gt2. But the last 2 with all wheel drive I drove was kinda stiff and felt a lot heavier.

 

[stoopid]

Yeah. I’m just assuming I have a zero loss. But even if they give me 33k I’m only down three. With the equity, and price looks like my payment will only go up about 200$-$150 more. Which with my income is totally doable. They do have an AWD there currently 2022 gt2. But the last 2 with all wheel drive I drove was kinda stiff and felt a lot heavier.

I was in a similar situation getting into my Stinger GT [mostly a wash financially after the trade-in and incentives at the time of purchase]. Get loan preapproval, it's rare that dealers provide good financing options. Local credit unions tend to be very aggressive and competitive with low rates.

I agree that people who will be seeking a Stinger after they're discontinued will be looking for the 3.3TT drivetrain. The AWD is helpful for launches, and I don't really notice any additional weight. Is it even 200 pounds difference? I think less.

$55k is fine in today's market (basically MSRP). Look at the parts catalog and see if you can get them to throw in all weather mats, etc.

Most dealers have an in house paint and dent specialist, or have one on call. Unless the dent is kinked/crinkled the metal, they'll have no issue smoothing it out. Even bad dents can often be repaired popping with the right tools/glue. If they push back tell them you'll find someone to fix it. As you get up to leave they'll change their tune.

 

[BrocStar]

I was in a similar situation getting into my Stinger GT [mostly a wash financially after the trade-in and incentives at the time of purchase]. Get loan preapproval, it's rare that dealers provide good financing options. Local credit unions tend to be very aggressive and competitive with low rates.

I agree that people who will be seeking a Stinger after they're discontinued will be looking for the 3.3TT drivetrain. The AWD is helpful for launches, and I don't really notice any additional weight. Is it even 200 pounds difference? I think less.

$55k is fine in today's market (basically MSRP). Look at the parts catalog and see if you can get them to throw in all weather mats, etc.

Most dealers have an in house paint and dent specialist, or have one on call. Unless the dent is kinked/crinkled the metal, they'll have no issue smoothing it out. Even bad dents can often be repaired popping with the right tools/glue. If they push back tell them you'll find someone to fix it. As you get up to leave they'll change their tune.

Thank you for the reply. This is very helpful and I really appreciate it. In regards to your Stinger. I noticed on your description that listed at the bottom. Once I solidify the sale, if it happens, I was thinking of getting a cool air intake system right out of the gate. Would that be your first upgrade? I will probably ask the dealer first if that type of upgrade hurts my warranty. I assume they might even put it on buy not sure.
Thanks

 

[stoopid]

Thank you for the reply. This is very helpful and I really appreciate it. In regards to your Stinger. I noticed on your description that listed at the bottom. Once I solidify the sale, if it happens, I was thinking of getting a cool air intake system right out of the gate. Would that be your first upgrade? I will probably ask the dealer first if that type of upgrade hurts my warranty. I assume they might even put it on buy not sure.
Thanks

Common question for new owners is 'what's the first upgrade', so stick around and keep reading. The answer to that is complicated and depends on individual wants/needs. I don't have a cold air intake, only dropin K&N filters. I did this mostly for cheap maintenance, but also to help offset a tiny bit the warmer weather here (adding just a touch more air flow when idling in 100+F heat for 3-4 months).

 

[BrocStar]

Common question for new owners is 'what's the first upgrade', so stick around and keep reading. The answer to that is complicated and depends on individual wants/needs. I don't have a cold air intake, only dropin K&N filters. I did this mostly for cheap maintenance, but also to help offset a tiny bit the warmer weather here (adding just a touch more air flow when idling in 100+F heat for 3-4 months).

Haha. Yeah we also have really hot temperature. I am down Southern Cal near the desert in winter and beach in summer. It gets excess of 120 during the summer so anything helps. Looks like the cold intake might be the first mod. More airflow cooler motor right.
Thanks again.
Cheers

 

[Dan00Hawk]

What kind of hp and torque are you getting with the jb4 kit ? Increase 0-60?

Does that sound out of the ballpark with msrp. I was thinking as in resale price staying higher for the 3L on the long term. Especially if they discontinue the car after 2023. I heard it might happen. There new electric sports

i do not think I will take much of a hit as I got it for 36-37. The last dealer offered me 36k. My main thought process is the 3.3 L will retain more value over long haul and after the warranty is up I can keep it and do more mods. I love the 2.5 T and just looking at options. If the numbers don’t work out I’ll keep the current so it’s a win win for me.
More power isn’t always better but I do like the low end grunt.

Getting about 50ish hp, according to BMS graphs. My 0-60 dropped by about .4 seconds when I tested with snow tires. Haven't checked lately since it's hot and that would skew the results.