Stinger Dashcam cabling tips

Driver

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I've recently installed Dashcams and a UHF 2 way radio in my Stinger.

I thought I'd share some photos of how I got the cabling installed since this seems to be a question that often comes up. This is by no means a complete step by step guide - but hopefully will helps out others out!

First off, this video is a good watch:
- and was great assistance!

However there's a couple of bits I did differently.

Before beginning, buy some plastic automotive pry tools. An assortment is better than the tiny one that might some with a dashcam. Like these: ToolPRO Door Trim Remover Set - 5 Piece

Door Trims:
The rubber door seals will pull off fairly easily. This will give access to a nice gap between the metalwork and side airbag / roof lining and cables can be routed down the side of the car this way.
DoorTrim.webp


A Pillar:
First off, the A Pillar has the side-air bag in it, so it's important to route cables behind the air bag; rather than 'cutting across' the front of it / deployment zone (if you'd call it that)

Remove the A pillar trim by nervously gripping top of the trim and pulling it straight out, towards the centre console. The top clip releases in two stages; firstly to loosen (as pictured); then it can be unclipped but that's not necessary. There's two more clips lower down; but they guide themselves & retention once the trim panel is pushed back in. I believe this is a fairly standard A pillar trim mounting design - as it was identical to how the recent Ford Falcons in Australia did it too.

A_Pillar.webp

B Pillar:
No photos - but with both the front & rear door trims pealed back, you can easily get the cable/s between the doors.

Use a Draw Wire:
I recommend feeding a draw wire through initially as this will be easier than trying to shove through a very flexible cable with a fragile connector attached. I used a bit of scrap RG6 TV antenna cable for this - flexible but still fairly rigid for navigating any hidden void.

Poke this through first - then tape on your good cable - and you can gently 'draw' it through. Remember you can also attach the good cable from the opposite end; then pull the draw wire backwards too.

Tailgate Trim:
There's four clips holding the centre plastic panel - Pry near these to have them pop out. Be careful with the ends of any trims - they often have hooks to an adjoining panel.
TailgateTrim.webp
Removing the side tailgate trim also helps gaining access to the cable gromit within the tailgate. The above panel will reveal a screw that holds the side panel - remove this, then there's two more clips holding the panel on:
TailgateSideTrim.webp

Cable Gromit:
After a bit of poking around - it turns out I didn't need to lift up the rubber tailgate seal at all!

1. Just peal back the Cable gromit to lift it up.
2. If you stick your finger in, you'll feel an inner hole; within another layer of metal work. The OEM cable loom is also passing through this. Below this inner hole is the roof liner.
3. Poke your draw wire in then aim it towards the rear door.
GromitFishing1.webp

With the rear door seal pulled back; with any luck - and probably a lot of mucking around - you'll see the end of the draw wire!
GromitFishing2.webp
With enough cable slack I believe I've stayed clear of the end of side air bag.

Excess Cable:
Continuing to remove the rear door seal next to the back seat reveals a nice void that I could shove my excess dashcam cable in to.

End of Dashboard:
Back up front; the side panel in the end of the dashboard has clips that look like this:
DashPlastic.webp
With a pry tool, being mindful of where the actual clips are; it pops off fairly easily to reveal the side of the dash - with the cables I'd routed - that then drop down the back corner of the dash; then along to the fuse panel.
DashEnd.webp

Running Cables from A Piller to Rear View mirror area:
After the cables have come out from under the A Piller; i've just poked them up in to the roof lining next to the windscreen. I also didn't see the point of trying to hide cables inside the OEM trim near the rear-view mirror. Not worth the effort.

The end result of the rear cameras:
RearCams.webp
Also beware that centre panel has very little clearance under it. The Blackvue cable - being very thin - fits; but beware of much thicker cables. Unfortunately I notched out a gap for the much thicker Viofo cable only to then discover that there wasn't enough room. Doh! *sigh* :)

Hope that helps someone!
 
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I was trying to run the cable from front cam to rear cam. I found it’s hard to put it behind airbag for B pillar area.
 
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I've recently installed Dashcams and a UHF 2 way radio in my Stinger.

I thought I'd share some photos of how I got the cabling installed since this seems to be a question that often comes up. This is by no means a complete step by step guide - but hopefully will helps out others out!
I see that you said you installed a UHF radio in your Stinger. Could you provide details and pictures of that part of the install?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Whilst I didn't cover the electrical / fuse-box connections in my original post, I want to highlight the importance of the orientation of the 'add a circuit' fuse taps. It DOES make a difference as to which way it's inserted!

I highly recommend looking at Flip9's post about this on DashCamTalk forums: Which side of a fuse is Hot vs Cold?

Basically inserting one way will result in all current/load going through the original fuse (then the 2nd fuse is just for your new sub-circuit). You can't exceed the original fuse's specification this way and cause 'up stream' damage; as the original fuse still covers everything. But you've also lowered the original circuit's downstream capacity in the process.

However inserting 'backwards' adds the new circuit's load in parallel to the original fuse. This bypasses the original fuse, so you risk overloading your factory wiring this way.

The good news at least is getting this wrong for a low power consuming dashcam is probably not going to be a big deal due. But it's still something you should be aware of.
 
Whilst I didn't cover the electrical / fuse-box connections in my original post, I want to highlight the importance of the orientation of the 'add a circuit' fuse taps. It DOES make a difference as to which way it's inserted!

I highly recommend looking at Flip9's post about this on DashCamTalk forums: Which side of a fuse is Hot vs Cold?

Basically inserting one way will result in all current/load going through the original fuse (then the 2nd fuse is just for your new sub-circuit). You can't exceed the original fuse's specification this way and cause 'up stream' damage; as the original fuse still covers everything. But you've also lowered the original circuit's downstream capacity in the process.

However inserting 'backwards' adds the new circuit's load in parallel to the original fuse. This bypasses the original fuse, so you risk overloading your factory wiring this way.

The good news at least is getting this wrong for a low power consuming dashcam is probably not going to be a big deal due. But it's still something you should be aware of.

@Driver . You gotta take a look at this thread it's entertainment personified , right up your ally read it from the start you won't be able to turn away. Let me know your thoughts , it completely bamboozled me:laugh:.

Proper 12v, Accessory, and Ignition wires
 
Proper 12v, Accessory, and Ignition wires ...hmm yeah whatever. :eek:

My take: Do not cut in to the factory wiring looms.

That is potentially warranty voiding - and a royal pain for the next guy to perform troubleshooting on.

If you ever take your car back to Kia Service for an unrelated "electrical" related issue - the first thing your Kia dealer might want to do is isolate your aftermarket accessories from the picture - no matter what the problem actually is. With a FuseTap - the dealer/troubleshooting-dude can just unplug the tap and isolate your "accessories" instantly. Plus having a Tap on X fuse is dead obvious as to what circuit it's running off.

But if you've spliced in to factory wiring - that is a much more painful job to temporarily disconnect. Of course you'll probably hear them go "WTF is this shit" first - as they'll then have to figure out what has been done. Sure they can lookup wiring diagrams etc, but it's more time & hassle.

Dashcams draw little power (eg: typically under 1A). Fusetap is fine to sneak in that little extra load. Fuse tap (correctly orientated) will retain the existing circuit's (max) fuse rating too.

Obviously installing high current devices (amplifiers, lightbars, invertors, etc) should be wired straight back to the battery with their own fuse.

You could argue that FuseTaps are unreliable connection wise; as they could come loose over a long time. But Micro2 fuses are pretty light anyway. low risk. With that in mind - you should only ever fuse-tap a nonessential circuit and not something like your airbags.

Even the Australian bi-model exhaust is wired up by Kia with a fuse-tap :p
 
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