preparing for valved exhaust install, couple questions on electrical hookup, seeking advice

rtv900

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So I'm going to do an aftermarket valved exhaust, and of course the thing doesn't re-use the factory plugs for valve control, so I need to get 12 volts to the controller.
It came with two ring terminals on it, which I could easily connect to the battery, but I'm afraid that there will be a constant draw in that case.
So I figure my only option is attempting to use a cigarette lighter adapter that will only be on when the car is on.
My main question is, am I missing something and is there a better way to get a switched 12 volt at the rear of the car?
And does anyone know of a clean way to get a wire from the trunk area to a switched 12v?
All I can think of is going between a seat and having it run across the back seat, which I do not want to do unless I have no other choice.
 
if you're looking for clean switch 12 volt could use the the amplifier for the stereo on the right side of the trunk. keep it all in the back that way there's a rubber grommet by the battery where you can drop through to underneath and just tuck your wire under the heat shielding
 

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so in the trunk on the right I see a small fuse panel with a couple plugs, but no amp.
Would the fuse box be a solution? Like I could get a plug for a fuse socket or something?

btw, mine is a gt1, so I don't have the upgraded sound system if that matters
 
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so in the trunk on the right I see a small fuse panel with a couple plugs, but no amp.
Would the fuse box be a solution? Like I could get a plug for a fuse socket or something?

btw, mine is a gt1, so I don't have the upgraded sound system if that matters
Well the small fuze panel would be your #1 prefured option You would need to test a circuit that would work under auxiliary or ignition on only , You might have the amplifier and just not see it not sure there
 

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ahhh, ok, yeah I didn't remove all the paneling back there so I only saw the fuse panel.
Honestly I'd probably feel more comfortable plugging into that. So I guess I'd just need one of those connectors that plugs into the fuse iteself for a power source?
I do have a multimeter so I can easily check which free spots are switched.

Anybody know if the rear seat bottoms lift up? It feels like there's space under there and running a wire under those seats wouldn't be bad either, then it would just come out for that short distance over to the cigarette plug.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
ahhh, ok, yeah I didn't remove all the paneling back there so I only saw the fuse panel.
Honestly I'd probably feel more comfortable plugging into that. So I guess I'd just need one of those connectors that plugs into the fuse iteself for a power source?
I do have a multimeter so I can easily check which free spots are switched.

Anybody know if the rear seat bottoms lift up? It feels like there's space under there and running a wire under those seats wouldn't be bad either, then it would just come out for that short distance over to the cigarette plug.
Yes the seat base will lift up. Give a good pull from the bottom and it should unclip. The attached fuse diagram may help......fuel pump would be switched power.
Screenshot_20220315-093040_Samsung Internet.webp
 
yeah so I checked out that box last night more, and see there's some spares. The friggin prongs on the fuses are so long I can't get the probes of a meter in there to check what is switched. I get the fuel pump is, but I'd much rather use a spare or something far less critical than the fuel pump.
If nobody knows I suppose I can just use a spare and then find out if it's switched.
That box is odd too because there's a bare metal prong in that box that is hot 100% of the time.

Plus, I didn't even realize there were rear seat heaters?????
 
yeah so I checked out that box last night more, and see there's some spares. The friggin prongs on the fuses are so long I can't get the probes of a meter in there to check what is switched. I get the fuel pump is, but I'd much rather use a spare or something far less critical than the fuel pump.
If nobody knows I suppose I can just use a spare and then find out if it's switched.
That box is odd too because there's a bare metal prong in that box that is hot 100% of the time.

Plus, I didn't even realize there were rear seat heaters?????

What does your meter's prongs look like? Mine are pretty short and can still test...

Just install an add-a-circuit with a fuse that is ignition switched on.

edit: mine is using the ACC fuse

1647369324012.png
 
I think maybe mine are just too thick, I couldn't get them in those slots far enough
anyhow, I ordered an add a circuit thing just like in your pic, so once I have that I can just use the pigtail coming off it to determine
what is switched and always on.

I did figure most would be switched though, especially things like heated side view mirrors and whatnot because why would anyone want an electric heating element being able to run with the car off. . . . . .but I guess some might
 
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