New to wheels/suspension, need help with very basic concepts

[cLaw]

Long story short, stinger is the first car I've ever worked on myself and I learned a lot mechanically. Unfortunately I don't really understand suspension/wheels/tire size as well and I just have a few small questions.

Just so you know what I mean, I read this in the "wheel/tire can be confusing" thread

"Anything over 8.5+30, 9+35 or 9.5+40 will poke, every -10 offset will be about another 7/16" out (~1/2" give or take). Depends on what you're going for, I doubt anyone will be disappointed with 8.5+30, 9+35 or 9.5+40, but if you're going for a flush look, I would suggest avoiding going beyond that unless you're trying to extend past the fender. If you want a wider or taller tire up front, definitely stick to that range."

I will be honest, when I read this my mind is literally blank and I have no idea what any of this means in any aspect when it comes to the numbers etc.

1. I want to buy new tires/wheels and eventually lower my car but I want to do this in a way that will not hurt my performance. Just curious on how to effectively go through with that without needing my hand held on the forums?
2. Is there any great video or anything to read that will help me understand this much more?

 

[NS_Stinger]

What is your goal? Do you want the tires to sit flush with the fender with your new wheel/tire package?

 

[cLaw]

What is your goal? Do you want the tires to sit flush with the fender with your new wheel/tire package?

I would say so, yea. I looked at the excel sheet in that thread and saw some fits that I liked. Just saw many were staggered and I didn't know how that came into play when talking about performance and lowering the car. If one side is a bigger tire does it look a little weird when lowered? Or is the difference so minimal it doesn't matter?

Might be stupid questions but I have no idea

 

[NS_Stinger]

I would say so, yea. I looked at the excel sheet in that thread and saw some fits that I liked. Just saw many were staggered and I didn't know how that came into play when talking about performance and lowering the car. If one side is a bigger tire does it look a little weird when lowered? Or is the difference so minimal it doesn't matter?

Might be stupid questions but I have no idea

No, staggered wont look weird, the car comes stock with a staggered setup anyway. I think your best bet would be to find a setup on the forum that you like in pictures and just replicate the specs down to the same wheel model. If you're concerned with performance you'll want a wheel/tire combo thay has a weight equal or below your factory setup. Every pound to shave off with your new setup will definitely benefit performance.

 

[cLaw]

No, staggered wont look weird, the car comes stock with a staggered setup anyway. I think your best bet would be to find a setup on the forum that you like in pictures and just replicate the specs down to the same wheel model. If you're concerned with performance you'll want a wheel/tire combo thay has a weight equal or below your factory setup. Every pound to shave off with your new setup will definitely benefit performance.

Thanks for explaining it, that made this 10x easier to shop for. That was pretty much all I needed to know!

 

[Devin]

This thread is the one you want

Wheel/size/offset and tire/size/profile...can be confusing.

I've been sort of compiling and validating some combinations. Criteria: avoiding poke, trying to find ways to improve on the stock look without compromising performance too much, etc. Seems like an okay start, might be cool if we could add to it (original in Excel has formulas and all that...

stingerforum.org

 

[socalvn]

Check out the gallery on Fitment Industries. They have a lot of stingers on there with different wheel setups

20×9 front 32 offset minimal tuck. 33/34 would have been flush in the front
20×10.5 rear 45 offset minimal poke 47/48 would have been flush in the rear

 

[cLaw]

This thread is the one you want

Wheel/size/offset and tire/size/profile...can be confusing.

I've been sort of compiling and validating some combinations. Criteria: avoiding poke, trying to find ways to improve on the stock look without compromising performance too much, etc. Seems like an okay start, might be cool if we could add to it (original in Excel has formulas and all that...

stingerforum.org

Yea this is what I was looking at but @NS_Stinger gave me the info I needed to understand everything there, thanks!

​

 

[cLaw]

Check out the gallery on Fitment Industries. They have a lot of stingers on there with different wheel setups

20×9 front 32 offset minimal tuck. 33/34 would have been flush in the front
20×10.5 rear 45 offset minimal poke 47/48 would have been flush in the rear

What I managed to come up with while also copying someone else was

19x8.5 30ET 245/35/19 front
19x9.5 40ET 285/30/19 rear

TSW Sebrings, conti dws06 tires

I wont purchase wheels for a while so this will probably change as I have other mods in the way, but just something I liked

I didn't know about the gallery that also helps a lot, thanks!

 

[Hawk853]

Long story short, stinger is the first car I've ever worked on myself and I learned a lot mechanically. Unfortunately I don't really understand suspension/wheels/tire size as well and I just have a few small questions.

Just so you know what I mean, I read this in the "wheel/tire can be confusing" thread

"Anything over 8.5+30, 9+35 or 9.5+40 will poke, every -10 offset will be about another 7/16" out (~1/2" give or take). Depends on what you're going for, I doubt anyone will be disappointed with 8.5+30, 9+35 or 9.5+40, but if you're going for a flush look, I would suggest avoiding going beyond that unless you're trying to extend past the fender. If you want a wider or taller tire up front, definitely stick to that range."

I will be honest, when I read this my mind is literally blank and I have no idea what any of this means in any aspect when it comes to the numbers etc.

1. I want to buy new tires/wheels and eventually lower my car but I want to do this in a way that will not hurt my performance. Just curious on how to effectively go through with that without needing my hand held on the forums?
2. Is there any great video or anything to read that will help me understand this much more?

I think some of those numbers are questionable. Guess it depends on what someone sees as flush. Some of those offsets would be very close to the front strut.

I think of my setup as flush and it’s a pretty common combination.
Front 20x9 et30 rear 20x10.5 et45
My other set is et32 and et47.

 

[cLaw]

I think some of those numbers are questionable. Guess it depends on what someone sees as flush. Some of those offsets would be very close to the front strut.

I think of my setup as flush and it’s a pretty common combination.
Front 20x9 et30 rear 20x10.5 et45
My other set is et32 and et47.
View attachment 80544

Looks great man, thank you

 

[socalvn]

I think some of those numbers are questionable. Guess it depends on what someone sees as flush. Some of those offsets would be very close to the front strut.

I think of my setup as flush and it’s a pretty common combination.
Front 20x9 et30 rear 20x10.5 et45
My other set is et32 and et47.
View attachment 80544

What size rear tires do you run any rubbing issues at all?

 

[Hawk853]

What size rear tires do you run any rubbing issues at all?

Slightest bit of contact with the liners on the rear outers at full stuff. Only happens on large dips in the road when moving pretty fast.

The fronts rarely and barely contact the liners in what must be full compression in a turn. I posted a photo somewhere on the forum.

9” in the front is pretty tight packaging.

245/35zr20 285/30zr20 like many others.

 

[Snicklefritz]

see, this is what Ima talking about. 'how much rub is ok' is not a conversation I'll have. any rub is to be avoided. if that means no lowering with wider tires and pushing to 'flush' then it's out of the question. but you do you.