New Stinger Owner

[iarm]

Hey guys fairly new owner to a used 22’ GT2. Had this car for a month so far and love it. I had a bunch of questions though and figure rather than scour year old threads I can get the latest information regarding my car. I do plan on slightly modding it as much as I can without voiding the warranty.

1) I’ve been running into the infamous vibrating brakes, my car is near 15k miles. Does Kia warranty cover this? And if so is it even worth it or should I just go the aftermarket rotors/brake pads like so many suggest if so which ones should I get.

2)someone recommended to me I get an oil catch can but since my car isn’t tuned is it beneficial?

3) if I were to get a JB4 down the road for improved power do you need fuel wires and new spark plugs? Also is it worth it if the best gas I can get near me is 91 octane so I’m assuming I wouldn’t even be able to go past map 1?

4) I see some people replace the intakes but from what I understand is that there is not much of a performance upgrade as it is a sound difference. Since the stock intakes are the actual performance cold air ones?

I apologize if my questions are dumb or redundant to the forum but like I said I’m new am I would like to learn happy to be here

 

[ExtremePowerHouse - MIke]

1) I recommend taking the car to Kia to check
2) it's helpful but not mandatory
3) fuel wires are not necessary, and neither are spark plugs, although i always recommend upgrading the plugs when tuning the car to avoid misfires
4) its mostly for sound but you can some power as well, but if power is your only concern, the Jb4 is the better investment

 

[LordKOTL]

Welcome and congrats on the new ride!

Here's my $0.02; no refunds .

1. The likley culprit of the vibrating brakes is pad deposits on the rotors, not the rotors themselves. I believe some people have had luck getting Kia to replace like-for-like, but I'm of the opinion that it just kicks the can down the road. If you know a good shop or are keen with auto work yourself, I would recomment turning your stock rotors, then getting ceramic aftermarket pads. EBC Yellowstuff, Powerstop Z26 Street Warrior, etc. should work. There are plenty out there (I think K8 Stinger Store sells some too that are highly rated by the folks here). They key is using ceramic pads, not whatever the stockers are--organic I think.
2. I think the question is whether or not you or if you'll have a shop walnut blast your intake at...I think it's 60k miles? The crankcase blowby deposits are cleaned off the intake valves with a walnut shell blast as part of the usual maintenance. If not, or if you want to make the intake get less deposits, then run a catch can. just remember to empty it every oil change or get a self-emptying one.
3. Don't have a JB4, but if you're running more powerful tune you might need them. Don't quote me on this.
4. Someone posted a video of a car which had a stock intake and another the stock intake ducts removed and replaced with the velossatech snorkels, and their drag races. The snorkels has a consistently higher trap speed so they likely do something over stock (or at least removing the stock intake ducts). I would assume an open box intake. or a closed-box intake with the snorkels would be similar: minimum gain (but a gain), but mostly sound--you're just removing the air restriction of the intake ducts. I've noticed anecdotally (emphasis on anecdotally) that my gas mileage went up about .5 MPG in all modes over the course of a tank if I'm not heavy on the gas pedal. Take that for what it's worth. I personally am just running K&N drop-ins and the velossatech snorkels.

 

[cLaw]

I'll answer #3 as the rest was answered by LordKOTL

The fuel wires aren't necessary but they do help you quite a bit. If you aren't comfortable tapping into your own fuel wire then you can just get the pnp adapters. Same with sparkplugs, they're not necessary for map1 but if you run into some issues its just another thing to troubleshoot if you didn't do them. If you can't get e85 anywhere and your best gas is 91, I would honestly not recommend the jb4. This might be a hot take but like, the potential headache of troubleshooting and maybe having poor quality fuel just for the performance of map1 + price of the jb4, its not that worth it for me. You could put that towards new wheels or something cosmetic lol.

 

[iarm]

Man- I really appreciate both of you for these posts and answers def helps a lot. Thank you for the info and the time you spent answering this

 

[Brendan @ K8 Stinger Store]

Hey, iarm

I want to say congratulations on the car and welcome to the forum!

Your braking issue is incredibly common and LordKOTL answered that very thoroughly. The issue is in the OEM pads and not the rotors. I strongly recommend our K8SS Elite Sport Ceramic Brake Pads; (FOUND HERE) from the K8 Stinger Store. They were designed specifically to stop the shaking and to produce less brake dust.

I will always recommend getting a catch can on a turbo car. If you are planning on keeping the car for a long time, you are definitely going to want a catch can for motor longevity. I would personally go with a dual system like the ADD W1 V3 Kit (FOUND HERE).

The JB4; (FOUND HERE) is a great way to get easy power. I would absolutely get plugs with the 3.3T, it isn't as important on the 2.0T. You will only need the fuel wires if you plan on running Ethanol down the line.

You will have better luck with intakes that have heat shields otherwise you can heat soak the motor which will result in a loss of power rather than a gain. If you were to pair the Injen Intakes for example with the Velossa Ram Air Scoops, then you will feel a difference; (FOUND HERE).​