Modded CPO Stinger?

[Avantius]

Hello everyone,

I recently picked up a CPO 2021 Stinger GT2 with roughly 30k miles that was reportedly a lease.The Carfax is clean and shows a history of regularly recommended maintenance.

Admittedly, I’m not engine savvy (hoping to change this with my Stinger) and I’ve noticed my car came with what appears to be aftermarket k&n intakes and what I’m assuming is some sort of performance device. The device has a green light that blinks intermittently while the car is on. The car appears to be in great condition and haven’t had any issues so far. However, I’m concerned that these mods could be an issue if I ever need warranty work.

Does this device look familiar to anyone? This vehicle has become the coolest car I’ve ever owned and I’d love to learn as much as I can to keep my Stinger running as long and efficiently as possible.

 

[Ohiocruiser]

That small box is a lap3 chip. Try to disconnect it and see if you can feel the difference. But that chip definitely can void the warranty.

 

[Avantius]

That small box is a lap3 chip. Try to disconnect it and see if you can feel the difference.

You’re awesome my dude. Thank you, do these typically need to be programmed? I have a few days off coming up. I’ll spend some time testing it.

 

[Ohiocruiser]

You’re awesome my dude. Thank you, do these typically need to be programmed? I have a few days off coming up. I’ll spend some time testing it.

It's plug and play chip, already programmed. You shoud feel decreased power when you disconnect it. And don't put anything lower than 93 octane with that chip.

 

[Avantius]

Right on, thank you. I know it’s difficult to say, but assuming this is a 1.5 chip, how much hp do you think is being produced?

It's plug and play chip, already programmed. You shoud feel decreased power when you disconnect it. And don't put anything lower than 93 octane with that chip.

 

[Ohiocruiser]

Right on, thank you. I know it’s difficult to say, but assuming this is a 1.5 chip, how much hp do you think is being produced?

I dont know that. 50-60hp maybe. But it should be noticable.

 

[Ohiocruiser]

LAP3 Tune for Stinger 400 hp to the wheels

Found this on one of the Facebook groups but when I went back it was missing. I'm glad I saved the images. Check this out. It looks like we could be seeing well over 400 hp to the wheels and maybe even more than 500 hp worth of torque. This engine has been detuned in a big way. I bet this...

stingerforum.org

 

[Avantius]

jeeez, that’s a lot of power. Although I don’t have much experience, I don’t think I’m seeing that much of a power boost, but, I imagine I’ll be able to tell once I disconnect the chip.

Thank you for taking the time to help me out, I really appreciate it. I supposed my next step is figuring out which chip is installed, how to remove it if necessary and if I decide to keep it, what else needs to be done, I.e. replacing the spark plugs etc

 

[Ohiocruiser]

jeeez, that’s a lot of power. Although I don’t have much experience, I don’t think I’m seeing that much of a power boost, but, I imagine I’ll be able to tell once I disconnect the chip.

Thank you for taking the time to help me out, I really appreciate it. I supposed my next step is figuring out which chip is installed, how to remove it if necessary and if I decide to keep it, what else needs to be done, I.e. replacing the spark plugs etc

When increasing the boost it's very recommended to replace spark plugs with smaller gap. But I am guessing, the previous owner did that already. Pull one spark plug and check. If it's hks brand, that will be great.

 

[Monarch_GTS]

Thats a Typhoon duel Intake system with K&N cone filters (i don't think they make the typhoon kit anymore). Those filters need to be cleaned and oiled periodically (there is a kit you can buy at most auto parts stores that includes a cleaning solution and a filter oil, I suggest O’Reilly Auto Parts)

Yea, like already stated, thats a LAP3 piggy-back tuner. I had one on my K5 before I upgraded to the JB4.

Blinking green is good. If its blinking red only, its connected incorrectly.

It operates independently of the ECM, but yes, if you have a warranty it will void it. You want to remove it before the car goes in for service (thats the bonus of the piggy-back design).

Based on its appearance, that chip is one of the earlier models (again, looks like the same one i had before). It actually has 3 performance settings. To change them, you have to unplug the serial connector and remove to 2 allen head screws to the case, then it slides open. Inside you will see the circuit board and 3 dial resistors. Use a small flat screwdriver to turn the dials.

Below is my chart for the 3 different HP settings (turn the dials like a combo lock) and the required octane fuel for each one. The more HP it adds, the higher octane fuel you need to use. The 3 settings are ROUGHLY +20hp, +40hp and +60hp.

I agree that, yes you should pre-check the spark plugs that are in it. If they’re not HKS, you should replace them with HKS if you plan to run the tuner regularly.

I also suggest to put oil catch cans on the engine (if they aren’t there already, but I dont see any in the pics). GDI engines are known to develop carbon buildup, and since your new to the car, id also suggest to have a true fuel injection service done with fogging the intake.

 

[Avantius]

Thats a Typhoon duel Intake system with K&N cone filters (i don't think they make the typhoon kit anymore). Those filters need to be cleaned and oiled periodically (there is a kit you can buy at most auto parts stores that includes a cleaning solution and a filter oil, I suggest O’Reilly Auto Parts)

Yea, like already stated, thats a LAP3 piggy-back tuner. I had one on my K5 before I upgraded to the JB4.

Blinking green is good. If its blinking red only, its connected incorrectly.

It operates independently of the ECM, but yes, if you have a warranty it will void it. You want to remove it before the car goes in for service (thats the bonus of the piggy-back design).

Based on its appearance, that chip is one of the earlier models (again, looks like the same one i had before). It actually has 3 performance settings. To change them, you have to unplug the serial connector and remove to 2 allen head screws to the case, then it slides open. Inside you will see the circuit board and 3 dial resistors. Use a small flat screwdriver to turn the dials.

Below is my chart for the 3 different HP settings (turn the dials like a combo lock) and the required octane fuel for each one. The more HP it adds, the higher octane fuel you need to use. The 3 settings are ROUGHLY +20hp, +40hp and +60hp.

Yes you should pre-check the spark plugs that are in it. If they’re not HKS, you should replace them with HKS if you plan to run the tuner regularly.

I also suggest to put oil catch cans on the engine (if they aren’t there already, but I dont see any in the pics). GDI engines are known to develop carbon buildup, and since your new to the car, id also suggest to have a true fuel injection service done with fogging the intake.

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You’re awesome, this is extremely helpful. By chance, would you be able to explain how to safely disconnect the chip? I’ve checked YouTube (maybe I’m not looking hard enough) but I can’t seem to find a straight forward video of how to disconnect the chip.

 

[Monarch_GTS]

Just make sure the car is fully turned off and “asleep” (dont take the transponder key near the car or it will “wake up”). Its best to disconnect the battery anytime you fiddle with electronics of any kind.

The tuner has a wiring harness with 2 primary ends, and on each end are 2 connectors; a male and a female. One runs to the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor mounted on the passenger side of the intake manifold, on the top/back side between the throttle body and the engine, and the Boost Pressure sensor mounted passenger side on the charge pipe between the throttle body and the intercooler.

Basically, all you do is disconnect the tuner from both of the sensors, and from both of the factory connectors, then re-connect the factory connectors directly to the sensors; just like stock would be.

Then just remove the tuner and its wiring harness. The car will act like stock.

I suggest you label which connectors go to what sensor before you remove the tuner. The connectors are VERY similar and it’s possible to mix them up when you re-install it.

 

[Avantius]

Just make sure the car is fully turned off and “asleep” (dont take the transponder key near the car or it will “wake up”). Its best to disconnect the battery anytime you fiddle with electronics of any kind.

The tuner has a wiring harness with 2 primary ends, and on each end are 2 connectors; a male and a female. One runs to the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor mounted on the passenger side of the intake manifold, on the top/back side between the throttle body and the engine, and the Boost Pressure sensor mounted passenger side on the charge pipe between the throttle body and the intercooler.

Basically, all you do is disconnect the tuner from both of the sensors, and from both of the factory connectors, then re-connect the factory connectors directly to the sensors; just like stock would be.

Then just remove the tuner and its wiring harness. The car will act like stock.

I suggest you label which connectors go to what sensor before you remove the tuner. The connectors are VERY similar and it’s possible to mix them up when you re-install it.

I see. Would disconnecting the chip from the serial port work as well? I suppose that would leave cables disconnected though.

 

[Monarch_GTS]

I see. Would disconnecting the chip from the serial port work as well? I suppose that would leave cables disconnected though.

Correct, it would leave things disconnected… and its doubtful the car would even start.

Its really pretty simple, just follow the wires from the tuner box to the sensors.

 

[ShaPoopieZ]

As a CPO i would argue anything that was installed on the car while the CPO inspection/certification process can not be used to void a warranty that is provided by that CPO process.

It was there when it was Certified ...
If Kia didn't like it they should have removed or not certified it.

I doubt you'll ever have a problem but i wouldn't go through the trouble of taking anything off for service.
They would have to prove a part that existed when they sold as a CPO caused a failure.

That would be evey hard to do and could easily be challenged in court.

 

[Monarch_GTS]

As a CPO i would argue anything that was installed on the car while the CPO inspection/certification process can not be used to void a warranty that is provided by that CPO process.

It was there when it was Certified ...
If Kia didn't like it they should have removed or not certified it.

I doubt you'll ever have a problem but i wouldn't go through the trouble of taking anything off for service.
They would have to prove a part that existed when they sold as a CPO caused a failure.

That would be evey hard to do and could easily be challenged in court.

Your right... but PROVING to them that it was there when you bought it - VS - they will of course claim that you installed it after the purchase, is a different matter all together. In a past life, I was a dealership service manager and believe me, they TRAIN you on ways to deny warranty repairs and get customers to pay for things any time they can. What "they should do" - VS - what "they often do" aren't the same, and after the purchase, they are not on your side. They are on the side of paying out as little as possible to maximize their profits.

Yes, the Magnusson-Moss warranty Act, in part, protects consumers from this and maybe you would win that in court, but you first have the KNOW about Magnusson-Moss (most consumers don't) and then you have all the effort and stress of fighting it... Why risk dealing with all that B.S. when the thing can be removed/installed in 10 minutes.....?

We're not talking about an intake or an exhaust here (generally no impact to your warranty unless the dealer is REALLY being a d!@k), this is an electronic device that alters the ECU's communication signals to increase HP; it will VOID your warranty every time if they find it. We all know this; it's why piggyback tuners exist. We are literally trying to alter the car for performance, and be able to remove it for warranty work without leaving any traces, so the warranty will pay for need repairs...

 

[Avantius]

I see. Would disconnecting the chip from the serial port work as well? I suppose that would leave cables disconnected though.

Just make sure the car is fully turned off and “asleep” (dont take the transponder key near the car or it will “wake up”). Its best to disconnect the battery anytime you fiddle with electronics of any kind.

The tuner has a wiring harness with 2 primary ends, and on each end are 2 connectors; a male and a female. One runs to the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor mounted on the passenger side of the intake manifold, on the top/back side between the throttle body and the engine, and the Boost Pressure sensor mounted passenger side on the charge pipe between the throttle body and the intercooler.

Basically, all you do is disconnect the tuner from both of the sensors, and from both of the factory connectors, then re-connect the factory connectors directly to the sensors; just like stock would be.

Then just remove the tuner and its wiring harness. The car will act like stock.

I suggest you label which connectors go to what sensor before you remove the tuner. The connectors are VERY similar and it’s possible to mix them up when you re-install it.

Hello!

Thanks for the advice. Had to take the stinger in after the check engine light came on and removed the piggyback. However, I wasn't able to label

Just make sure the car is fully turned off and “asleep” (dont take the transponder key near the car or it will “wake up”). Its best to disconnect the battery anytime you fiddle with electronics of any kind.

The tuner has a wiring harness with 2 primary ends, and on each end are 2 connectors; a male and a female. One runs to the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor mounted on the passenger side of the intake manifold, on the top/back side between the throttle body and the engine, and the Boost Pressure sensor mounted passenger side on the charge pipe between the throttle body and the intercooler.

Basically, all you do is disconnect the tuner from both of the sensors, and from both of the factory connectors, then re-connect the factory connectors directly to the sensors; just like stock would be.

Then just remove the tuner and its wiring harness. The car will act like stock.

I suggest you label which connectors go to what sensor before you remove the tuner. The connectors are VERY similar and it’s possible to mix them up when you re-install it.

Thanks again for the information, I had to take the stinger in for service a d referred back to this post. However, I forgot to label the connectors. How will I know if they're not connected correctly? Will the light blink red in addition to anything else?

 

[Avantius]

That small box is a lap3 chip. Try to disconnect it and see if you can feel the difference. But that chip definitely can void the warranty.

Had to disconnect it today and I can feel and hear the difference. I'm n the fence if I'm going to reconnect it when it comes back from getting serviced. Are there any significant cons other than warranty concerns?

 

[lil_lurking_stinger]

Had to disconnect it today and I can feel and hear the difference. I'm n the fence if I'm going to reconnect it when it comes back from getting serviced. Are there any significant cons other than warranty concerns?

Generally, piggyback tunes often leverage the “reservoir” power from the platform to see these performance gains. Basically these engines should be pushing ~450HP by all measures if you simulate the engine or compare it to similar platforms.

The cons will all tuning methods is that it will impact your engine life. It’s not a direct comparison (squeezing out 20% more power won’t equal 20% less life) but it will. That’s where having a reputable tuner comes in.

You have Lap3 so you are in safe hands.
The engine life will be shorter when compared to stock engine. How much? No one really knows. I have heard of people with tuned engines since break-in at 100k+ miles of hard driving and track use with no issues. I’ve also heard of completely stock engines going up to 200k miles. I don’t think anyone with a tune had reached that high tho.

Largely depends on your goals with the vehicle. If you’re going to keep it long-term i would leave it stock or do a light map1/2 tune as best. If you’re just having fun and will upgrade in the next 5 years… I don’t think it will matter as long as you stick to tunes from reputable tuners such as JB4, Lap3, SXTH, Lozic & RaceChip.

They all essentially do the same thing until you move up to ECU swaps, Back-End Flashing (BEF) or throwing large turbos on the engine.