Korean Sequential tail lights hyper flashing, ugh

[NYBIOMED]

Yep, after 3 weeks of patient waiting, they arrived yesterday and I just finished installing them. They look really fantastic, but I have the hyperflashing, I don't understand why some get this while others do not. I did start the car after the first one was installed, I wonder if resetting the battery/ECU might reset the hyperflashing- maybe it sensed the voltage difference between the 2 sides?? Getting the body trim off was a PITA, needs patience. A trick for others, is to pull along the bottom first, once they break free, place a plastic trim tool down there to prevent it from slipping back into the detents, then work you way around the top with another plastic "spoon" as you pulling away the body trim. It took a few minutes per side, but no broken tabs.
Does anyone know which wire requires the resistor- I saw Shark Racing sells them, might add on other goodies if I'm placing an order. I also noticed that the hyperflashing DOES NOT occur when the hazards are on and they work normal, hopefully the reset works....

 

[Devin]

Bummer. And you have a GT Line which another person had and I thought they didn't have that issue.

I tried the reset and it didn't help me.

 

[G-766831]

Ordered resistors from Shark Racing and a coupe other goodies, its just going to annoy the crap outta me. I'll need to figure out which wires tho, unless someone here can clue me in from the photo I provided.

 

[NYBIOMED]

Ordered the resistors and some other goodies from Shark Racing- its just gonna annoy the crap outta me. I'll need to figure out which wires, unless someone has done this and can help from the photo I provided??

 

[rbf351]

seems like it has something to do with when the car was built and which type of tail lights you have.

I have a 2022 GT2 which has the rear blinkers as LED, others have ones with incandescent bulbs as the original blinkers.

are your original ones LED or incandescent? very easy to tell, just twist open the connector and see if you have a bulb or wires going to a circuit board

 

[NYBIOMED]

seems like it has something to do with when the car was built and which type of tail lights you have.

I have a 2022 GT2 which has the rear blinkers as LED, others have ones with incandescent bulbs as the original blinkers.

are your original ones LED or incandescent? very easy to tell, just twist open the connector and see if you have a bulb or wires going to a circuit board

Pretty sure they are incandescent, the rest of the fixture seems to be LED. So your hypothesis is likely correct, just wish I had know this earlier, as I waited 3 weeks for the lights to arrive from Korea, I guess it'll be the same from Shark for the resistors...

 

[Rodtheviking]

Yep, after 3 weeks of patient waiting, they arrived yesterday and I just finished installing them. They look really fantastic, but I have the hyperflashing, I don't understand why some get this while others do not. I did start the car after the first one was installed, I wonder if resetting the battery/ECU might reset the hyperflashing- maybe it sensed the voltage difference between the 2 sides?? Getting the body trim off was a PITA, needs patience. A trick for others, is to pull along the bottom first, once they break free, place a plastic trim tool down there to prevent it from slipping back into the detents, then work you way around the top with another plastic "spoon" as you pulling away the body trim. It took a few minutes per side, but no broken tabs.
Does anyone know which wire requires the resistor- I saw Shark Racing sells them, might add on other goodies if I'm placing an order. I also noticed that the hyperflashing DOES NOT occur when the hazards are on and they work normal, hopefully the reset works....

It goes between the "load" or hot wire and the ground, like a bridge. You can use a multimeter or test light to find the signal and then just tap it between that and the ground wire for that plug.

 

[NYBIOMED]

It goes between the "load" or hot wire and the ground, like a bridge. You can use a multimeter or test light to find the signal and then just tap it between that and the ground wire for that plug.

There are 4 wires going into that turn signal bundle, im going to assume the white wire is a ground, but I have posi-taps that puncture the insulation of the wire without compromising the copper like vamp clamps do. I know how to use a DMM, so ill figure it out and post a followup for others when I'm done. I love posi-taps:

Posi-Products™ Car Speaker Connectors

8 wiring connectors for installing car speakers

www.crutchfield.com

 

[Rodtheviking]

Only three that I can think of would be the brake, turn and driving lights. You can use T pins for wire probes as well, poke the back of the socket at the wire you need to check.

 

[NYBIOMED]

You can use T pins for wire probes as well, poke the back of the socket at the wire you need to check and clip the load resistor to them before installing the taps.

You know what you are talking about good Sir

 

[antoneloc]

Digging up an old thread, but did those resistors end up working for you? GT-Line here with the same issue.

 

[NYBIOMED]

Yep, resistors work fine, definitely needed. Wires very thin, so vamp clamps not the best connectors to use IMO

 

[antoneloc]

Nice, glad to hear it. You don't happen to remember if you confirmed that white is ground and which is the hot wire, do you? Ended up the posi taps?

 

[NYBIOMED]

Jeez, cannot recall exactly regarding wires, but that sounds right. No, though I love posi-taps, these wires were too small. I'd have to recommend soldering or perhaps lever nuts.
Soldering is always the best option really...

 

[antoneloc]

Thanks for the insight, much appreciated.