JUN BL valved exhaust install, review and suggestions wanted

[rtv900]

So I did the JUN BL exhaust yesterday, the quality of the unit was great, tig welds looked perfect and the stainless tubing was a solid guage and perfect bends.
The fitment was perfect also, I had zero issues with anything. It only took an hour and that was working on the floor with jackstands.
My only disappointment is the sound.
It's barely any louder than the stock one. It's a bit better, but I was looking for some legit sound which is the whole reason I went with the valve, so I could have a quiet side for leaving my neighborhood at 6am.
I still can't hear downshifts at all and even wide open throttle full boost is pretty underwhelming.
The loud side is the outer most "mufflers" on each side. When I look down in that muffler it is almost just a straight through pipe and only has one hole top and bottom of the inside pipe about midway through, so I guess it's just a hollow cylinder.
This makes me think all the muffling is coming from the X pipe?????
Is anyone familiar with the design of these things? I feel like I already want to modify it.
Could I just cut out the muffler on the X pipe and weld in straight pipes there?
I work in a machine shop and I tig weld so having the right equipment to do that job legit is no issue, just not sure what results I'll end up with.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[rtv900]

Also, cut open the factory exhaust for informations sake

 

[Brichinelo]

So I did the JUN BL exhaust yesterday, the quality of the unit was great, tig welds looked perfect and the stainless tubing was a solid guage and perfect bends.
The fitment was perfect also, I had zero issues with anything. It only took an hour and that was working on the floor with jackstands.
My only disappointment is the sound.
It's barely any louder than the stock one. It's a bit better, but I was looking for some legit sound which is the whole reason I went with the valve, so I could have a quiet side for leaving my neighborhood at 6am.
I still can't hear downshifts at all and even wide open throttle full boost is pretty underwhelming.
The loud side is the outer most "mufflers" on each side. When I look down in that muffler it is almost just a straight through pipe and only has one hole top and bottom of the inside pipe about midway through, so I guess it's just a hollow cylinder.
This makes me think all the muffling is coming from the X pipe?????
Is anyone familiar with the design of these things? I feel like I already want to modify it.
Could I just cut out the muffler on the X pipe and weld in straight pipes there?
I work in a machine shop and I tig weld so having the right equipment to do that job legit is no issue, just not sure what results I'll end up with.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

There was a thread somewhere with a member who installed the Jun bl gt exhaust with Jun bl downpipes and it’s louder than stock for sure. It’s on YouTube as wells . It should be a white stinger .

 

[Yves998]

MY22 here. I have to say this twin turbo engine is just that quite. I gut out the secondary cats on the day one of owning the car and barely notice any difference. Then I have my MY22 muffler and resonator deleted and kept the EVC on the each side after the Y pipe . The auto on/off of the EVC killed the burble and rattle crazily so I have to cut them off right away. At this point I can finally hear some noise I am looking for. Then I did the 33 inch pipe alone with the tips to kill the drone. This made my car drone less than my coworker's MY19 with secondaries and mbrp+tips. Then I did the kilmat for the trunk area to kill the in cabin drone even more. At this point my in cabin drone is as low as stock catback with EVC unplugged. My previous straight piped cars are 370z and charger scat. I did the same Jpipe+tips+kilmat to them all and none of their in cabin drone level is even close to stock catback.

 

[Yves998]

Also, cut open the factory exhaust for informations sake

I cut them open before I did the muffler delete too. I was expecting hacking it like bmw onwers does. Then I relized how straight flow is the evc side already and how quite this engine might be.

 

[fairmont1998]

Did those factory rear mufflers have any numbers on them? Very curious to see if the Aussie MY22 has the same rear mufflers or different.
I'm guessing different because of our ADRs on noise.

 

[rtv900]

I cut them open before I did the muffler delete too. I was expecting hacking it like bmw onwers does. Then I relized how straight flow is the evc side already and how quite this engine might be.

right, the EVC side was very straight through. The x pipe section of the stock pipe is what I'd call glass packs or something. Inside it was just perforated piping through and then I assume fiberglass all around that, but I didn't actually cut it open I just looked in with a flashlight.
I really regret not starting the engine with each section removed to see the sound difference from x pipe only, and then downpipe only.

 

[Jasem]

Also, cut open the factory exhaust for informations sake

These pictures worth million words.

 

[Yves998]

right, the EVC side was very straight through. The x pipe section of the stock pipe is what I'd call glass packs or something. Inside it was just perforated piping through and then I assume fiberglass all around that, but I didn't actually cut it open I just looked in with a flashlight.
I really regret not starting the engine with each section removed to see the sound difference from x pipe only, and then downpipe only.

You can swap back your factory X pipe and delete the resonator on that to see how it sounds. Jub bl is totally factory compatibale piece by piece. If you like res deleted stock midpipe more than Junbl, I'm pretty sure there are straight piped guys out there would buy your Jun bl midpipe alone .

 

[rtv900]

honestly I'd want to modify the JUN one if I were doing that, which I am thinking of doing. I'm not sure how anyone would do that to the stock one because it is regular steel and it's galvanized, so tigging on that would basically be impossible because the galvanizing would ruin the electrode immediately as soon as you started welding.
I'm just hesitant to put all that work into modifying the JUN one in case it barely does anything, plus it's my daily so that job would be tough to fit in a weekend and be certain no issues would come up.

 

[Aarvix]

Interesting. What year is your stinger @rtv900 ?

I too cut my muffler open and it's a different design (2019).
Also mine are 2 layers, the outer shell appears aluminized not galvanized, and there's a stainless inner shell.

 

[rtv900]

wow, yeah yours sure is different.
Mine is a 22, so that would explain it.
But mine however did have the outer shell, the inner layer was stainless. I didn't realize that until I sliced around real gently and peeled it way and saw there was a whole other layer in there.
The contruction of the body looks identical, and the ribbing inside where the shell was spot welded, but they clearly changed the internals.

 

[andybob]

The craftsmanship on the Jun exhaust really does look good. I would cut out the mid resonator/x-pipe and replace with a traditional x-pipe. I feel that would definitely increase sound with the valve open on net a marginal change with the valve closed.

 

[rtv900]

reviving this old thread to see if anybody has had issues with the valves not working?
Mine just stopped working, and the little controller mounted in the trunk is definitely getting the signal because I can see the light go from red to green and it makes a sound too. No power issues or anything, no damaged wires, just stopped all of a sudden.
These are electric valves not vacuum controlled ones.
Of course it's stuck on the quite setting too so I can't even hear the engine at all.
I have no idea what to even try?
anybody have any ideas?