INSULATOR-STRUT (MOUNT) for Rear Right (Unavailable and no ETA)

HVNBND

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55310J5000INSULATOR-STRUT


This part was damaged while hitting an exceptionally brutal pot-hole in DC. (Living in Ft Meade, MD)

I have tried to find this part to replace and have had no success whatsoever.
I believe that damage was caused by my mechanic improperly adjusting aftermarket (Riaction) coilovers and strut and with the massive pothole, "snap!"

I had planned a track day next weekend but looks increasingly unlikely.

Any advice highly desired
 

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carid.com/kia-oe/rear-shock-mount-mpn-55310j5000.html (Here is an example)
 
Not sure how badly you want it but here is a lightly used rear shock with the part you need clearly in the photo:
2018-2020-KIA-STINGER-A-REAR-STRUT-SHOCK-ABSORBER-55300-J5400-OEM-2019/

This is the "mount" I was looking for!!! Thanks. Racing at Shenendoah in two weeks I hope )

Thanks!
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Not about your post. But I too have coilover set pretty low and on the road course due to speed and load it actually bottom out in the rear. There is a stud at the very top of the wheel wells to secure the fender liner. Make sure to trim it down. It cut my tire pretty badly. Personally I removed the pastic nut and dremel the stud out. It seem not necessary anyway. Have fun on the track.
 

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Thank you... I will inspect. Haven't had issues with that but the shock mount is cast aluminum which quite frankly is not very durable. Seems like an obvious place for an aftermarket set up.
 
Not about your post. But I too have coilover set pretty low and on the road course due to speed and load it actually bottom out in the rear. There is a stud at the very top of the wheel wells to secure the fender liner. Make sure to trim it down. It cut my tire pretty badly. Personally I removed the pastic nut and dremel the stud out. It seem not necessary anyway. Have fun on the track.
What coilovers did you go with?
 
In a frenzied effort to repair my Stinger, I went to a welder to restore the damaged mount. $300 for a 50$ part.
Thank you, KIA!

How could you think that the GT would not be a daily driver and race car? DUH!

I have also purchased the only strut (with mount) available in the entire USA as a backup.

Based on my very limited experience, if you are going to push your Stinger GT on a race track, this mount is very likely to give out. And or if you are going to drive in or arround DC expect the worst.

Any fabricators out there that could make an aftermarket mount for heavy duty activities?

BTW I have the Riaction Coilover's which I think might be amazing but due to the recent struggles, I am cautious. RiactionUSA shipped a replacement for the rear-strut, just in case it was damaged too. I am not waiting very patiently but the replacement should arrive tomorrow.

Thank you for reading about my trials. I love my Stinger.

Mods include:
Custom Wrap, Rear mini-spoiler, Cold Air Intakes, Rear Sway Bar, 20inch Ferada Rims, Goodyear Pilot Sports, Racechip, Riaction Coilovers, Slotted and Holed Front Rotors, and Race Quality Brake Pads.

Purchased but have not received delivery of Straight Back Exhaust and Intercooler.
 

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______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
The Ark DTP. Its not rubbing on the street but it did on the track.

I’m going to give the KWs a shot.

I’ll keep @HVNBND ’s issue in mind when I have everything apart. I have some fabrication experience and will look to see if making a jig for a stainless replacement part is within my skill set. I’ve been doing offroad suspension up until now.
 
UPDATE: Riaction has been very responsive and provided recommendations which I will provide in the next comment.


In the following email I will document my unfortunate experiences with implementing Riaction Coilovers.

I requested a company known as House of Dubs to do the install and as I recall the installer had all kinds of difficulties with the installation.

He reached out to Riaction and once I received the car I heard a slight sound in the right rear without knowing what the sound was. I even had two solid days of racing as the sound wasn't that big of a deal. From the experience I now know it was the mount, probably only partially broken. It wasn't until I was in DC, where potholes seem to be mandated, that I hit two in a row and the next thing I knew the slight sound became massive.

Of course I took it back to HOD, and they only noticed that the bump stop was hit so hard that it had to be pulled back into place. They never noticed that the mount broke apart because of the wheel well liner. The sound was worse and their minor repair of pulling the bump stop back obviously didn't fix the problem.

I realized HOD was not qualified and went to another mechanic. They found the problem.

The mount cap blew off the top.

This is when I reached out to Riaction and with a swift response they sent a replacement strut as the mechanic thought it may have been damaged too.

By the time I received a new mount (again a serious waste of money, expedited shipping and I had to buy the whole strut with it) I learned enough to take off and replace the rear struts (almost) with my eyes closed.

I replaced the mount and the struts and took it to Wits Fabrication to install Intercooler and get a tune (DynoJet 431 Max Torque/Beast!). When completed as I drove away I heard that lovely knocking sound now from the left side. I didn't think much of it as I just couldn't believe that the other mount broke. But once I hit another pothole, yes they do exist, the cap of the mount broke clean off...again.

I rushed back to Wits' FABRICATION, believing they could fix the mount. The swiftly charged 300$ with a welding experiment and told me they couldn't actually make it work. Yes that happened. They couldn't weld a top on without melting the core, didn't give me a working part and still charged me. Yea4me!

During the heavy debate on how to manufacture or repair the broken mounts, they called Riaction directly to ask if I had installed the struts correctly. It was confirmed there is no grommet or insert that goes in between the Riaction Coilover and the mount. We were told nothing goes in between. In addition I was told that it was installed correctly or the mount would have failed differently. Ok... Strut is fine, but the mount sucks.

So now I have purchased 3 more mounts and it is my goal to send one out to someone to see if it can be "reinforced".


How is it possible that my Stinger GT 2020, has had two mounts break and I am the only one to record this problem?

I have spent a great deal of money on the vehicle and I can't even drive it right now and of course I am concerned about breaking these on a regular basis as this car is supposed to be on the track and not in the shoppe.

Please review and advise.

Compare new strut with blown cap.
And where my car should be right now (Shenandoah) if it were not for the STOOOOPID shock mount.
 

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UPDATE: Riaction has been very responsive and provided recommendations which I will provide in the next comment.

Hello Daniel,

I'd like to thank you for a very detailed report of your experiences. This helps us better understand the situation on the Stinger platforms.


Your assumption on the strut assembled metal on metal is correct. You are actually also not the first Stinger owner that has resulted in this issue, this goes for the G70 as well. The structural integrity of that OEM mount is actually very weak. The cracked "lip" on the mount is actually the only amount of material that withstands impact upon full compression. This also brings us to understanding that the vehicle should not be hitting the bump stop in such a very harsh manner, therefore, much more preload needs to be adjusted onto the assembly. I believe speaking to a technician over at House of Dubs and it was quite concerning having to walk them through rear spring preload adjustments.

Your assumption on the strut assembled metal on metal is correct.

I recommend making re-adjustments to provide sufficient shock travel. It sounds like the initial installer did not do a great job in ensuring you had enough compression travel for harsh driving conditions. Vehicles like yours designed with the divorced spring and shock combination can actually be very tricky to set up. The front would only require 5-10mm preload adjustment increments to insure proper shock compression travel. Whereas the rear does need much more than a 5-10mm of compression. We also notice many installers setting the spring to become snug while fitted to the vehicle. Since you have a spare shock available, I'd like you to measure the shock stroke from the base all the way up to the bump stop. Now, I'd like you to measure the amount of rear suspension droop your vehicle has while you lift up the rear of the vehicle ( I advise lifting both rear wheels to ensure there is no sway bar tension when recording each corner ). You should now see how much droop travel you're utilizing on the shock and note how much actual shock compression travel you have when coming into contact with large road imperfections. As a fellow track enthusiast, learning this information of your vehicle can also help you improve fine tuning your vehicle at the track as well. For example, if you find you are cornering and relying on the rear bump-stop, you will then overload your tires from achieving optimal grip. Of course this is just something I'd like to add when making rear preload adjustments.

Remember that height adjustments are made from the spring itself, while spring preload is adjusted from the shock overall length. For example, If you'd like to add 1in of shock compression travel, you will then shorten the shock assembly by 1in and vice versa if you do not have any suspension droop at all.

Please let me know if this information helps with your findings. I will do my best in assisting you in this matter.

Thank you,

Riaction Staff
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Once I get one of the 3 mounts I ordered, I will attempt to re-install AGAIN, and see if the recommendations make a long lasting effect.

For me if there is anyone that can CNC or provide some method of strengthening this weak $%# part, it would be my pleasure to invest and then we can sell 100's of them as it is very difficult to even get this simple (but nearly worthless) part replaced, let alone rely on it once appropriately installed.

Argh!

I mean, please review and recommend.
 

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Could it be batch of bad castings on the 2020? Not much of these problems occured before recently. 2 people have blown the front shock top hat and ended up with struts bumps in the hood... seems like the same kind of casting too.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Hello Daniel,

I'd like to thank you for a very detailed report of your experiences. This helps us better understand the situation on the Stinger platforms.


Your assumption on the strut assembled metal on metal is correct. You are actually also not the first Stinger owner that has resulted in this issue, this goes for the G70 as well. The structural integrity of that OEM mount is actually very weak. The cracked "lip" on the mount is actually the only amount of material that withstands impact upon full compression. This also brings us to understanding that the vehicle should not be hitting the bump stop in such a very harsh manner, therefore, much more preload needs to be adjusted onto the assembly. I believe speaking to a technician over at House of Dubs and it was quite concerning having to walk them through rear spring preload adjustments.

Your assumption on the strut assembled metal on metal is correct.

I recommend making re-adjustments to provide sufficient shock travel. It sounds like the initial installer did not do a great job in ensuring you had enough compression travel for harsh driving conditions. Vehicles like yours designed with the divorced spring and shock combination can actually be very tricky to set up. The front would only require 5-10mm preload adjustment increments to insure proper shock compression travel. Whereas the rear does need much more than a 5-10mm of compression. We also notice many installers setting the spring to become snug while fitted to the vehicle. Since you have a spare shock available, I'd like you to measure the shock stroke from the base all the way up to the bump stop. Now, I'd like you to measure the amount of rear suspension droop your vehicle has while you lift up the rear of the vehicle ( I advise lifting both rear wheels to ensure there is no sway bar tension when recording each corner ). You should now see how much droop travel you're utilizing on the shock and note how much actual shock compression travel you have when coming into contact with large road imperfections. As a fellow track enthusiast, learning this information of your vehicle can also help you improve fine tuning your vehicle at the track as well. For example, if you find you are cornering and relying on the rear bump-stop, you will then overload your tires from achieving optimal grip. Of course this is just something I'd like to add when making rear preload adjustments.

Remember that height adjustments are made from the spring itself, while spring preload is adjusted from the shock overall length. For example, If you'd like to add 1in of shock compression travel, you will then shorten the shock assembly by 1in and vice versa if you do not have any suspension droop at all.

Please let me know if this information helps with your findings. I will do my best in assisting you in this matter.

Thank you,

Riaction Staff
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Once I get one of the 3 mounts I ordered, I will attempt to re-install AGAIN, and see if the recommendations make a long lasting effect.

For me if there is anyone that can CNC or provide some method of strengthening this weak $%# part, it would be my pleasure to invest and then we can sell 100's of them as it is very difficult to even get this simple (but nearly worthless) part replaced, let alone rely on it once appropriately installed.

Argh!

I mean, please review and recommend.

After reading all of this information it sounds like less of an issue with the mount and more of an issue with poor setup. The mount isn’t designed to take as much of a hit as the incorrect suspension setup is allowing it to.

It reminds me of when guys lift their trucks with spacer blocks on top of coilovers, reducing up travel and taking the bump stop out of the equation because they don’t extend the stop lower; then they fold the coilover and bend the shock tower after they hit a big pot hole or obstacle. Simply put, the coilover has become the stop.

The shock tower isn’t designed to take that kind of hit, just like the mount in question on the Stinger. That mount might be the fuse that’s breaking before frame damage occurs.

I assumed it wouldn’t be necessary with replacement coilover kits for these cars, but if you remove the coil and cycle the suspension you can check for “metal on metal” contact that would cause that mount to break - kind of what Riaction was suggesting, but one step further.
One variable I glossed over is the nitrogen charge in the shock. That may or may not limit your ability to cycle. I always dump the nitrogen and refill when I’m finished.

It sounds like these Riaction shock bodies are more adjustable than what I’m used to. From Riaction’s description, that from a fixed mounting position, the shock body can be adjusted up and down the shock shaft.
I have to do all the cycling and then weld shock mounts, bump cans and limit straps into position after ensuring clearances and adding a safety margin.

You have me very curious now. I’m going to take extra care during my KW install to double check clearances. I’m going to remove the coils for powder regardless, so I’ll have the opportunity to cycle the front and rear.
 
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UPDATE

After several weeks of dealing with this nightmare, I have come to learn that the original installers basically created a setup that was aesthetic but not functional. The bottom line was that they overcompressed the front springs and overextended the struts in the rear. Basically opposite of what is recommended or rather demanded especially for the track.

Result: Two broken rear shock mounts. Purchased a whole shock to get a single mount. Ordered two more shock mounts from Korea. Will take a minimum of 3 weeks to arrive. I basically dreamed about a configuration that would allow me to use the broken shock mount (answer steel washer).

One shattered left front shock. Literally exploded inside, oil spilled everywhere. Riaction (especially Joel) was greatly helpful and has continued to support me throughout this disaster.

I used to say I am the least mechanical person on the planet. Now I can say I have replaced both front and rear shocks, have a very basic understanding of the proper setup.

I actually reinstalled everything. I am a pure amateur with cuts and black and blue nails and grease that won't come out.

Knowing that I probably didn't have it set right I took it to a performance mechanic to "check" my work and evaluate if the car is track-ready. As you may have guessed it wasn't. And they certainly let me know I was an amateur. So as of this moment as I couch surf I am hopeful to get my Stinger back ( #catch22gt ) so I can continue the thrilling effort of high-performance driving.

While I may be one of the worst mechanics, I am good driver and I can tell you for certain I will drop my overall time from the optimal 1:50 for a Porsche GTS to something less than 1:48. In two weekends from today I will get my chance, but not til after spending a great deal of money and time on technical difficulties that were never necessary.

The moral of the story never get a company that does vinyl wraps to do custom coil-overs.

Have a look on my Instagram and you can see what this car has already accomplished with a less than optimal set-up.
#catch22gt

Be blessed and be amazed my fellow Stinger GT owners.
 
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