3.3TT Hot brakes

[G-928422]

Has anyone run ducting to cool the brakes? I lost a lot of brake effectiveness after one track day, most laps top speed drop was 120mph to 50mph. I was told my brakes smoked. I got new Stoptech pads, but I don't want them fading as well (haven't put them on yet). I don't have any pulsing, but the brake rotors did turn blue (like a gun barrel) after one set of 10 laps. 2019 GT2 AWD, factory stock.

 

[suburbandoom]

Get rid of the factory fluid, flush with a high temp DOT4....600. Brand doesn't matter for 600/660 fluids, as only one firm actually makes it. And if you're playing on the track, you need a better pad.

 

[M'Kehyah]

And your brakes can smoke from a piece of trapped tire rubber that was scrubbed off

Was it one brake? All? Or Just fronts?

 

[Ed B]

And your brakes can smoke from a piece of trapped tire rubber that was scrubbed off

Was it one brake? All? Or Just fronts?

I was told "brakes" plural -- this info was relayed through observers to my instructor. I will say that my brake effectiveness was low (0.2 g) for about a month, then they came back in. Only thing I did was get DOT 4 fluid. I have Stoptech pads but waiting for warmer weather (spring) to install.

 

[Angus Law]

Stock stinger can run 10 hot lap?
How’s your engine oil temp?
And the gear box still running well after couple of hot lap?
I am going to track my car on February.

 

[oddball]

You ran stock pads on a track?!?!?!?!?!

For a slow lap, sure... autocross, sure.... but an actual high speed no kidding race lap on a road course? Whoa. The stock pads are marginal in daily driving usage (see: uneven deposits referred to as "brake warping"). Definitely need a better pad. Khar has a number of options, including true track pads.

Swapping brembo pads is extremely easy. Take off wheel, pop out the two pins, pull out pads, spread pistons, reverse. Much quicker than typical floating calipers. If you're serious about tracking the car then you really should have a set of track pads that you install at the track. Don't run track pads on the street. It's best to have a set of rotors that were bedded with the matching pads, but hey. Can't have everything.

 

[NS_Stinger]

Has anyone run ducting to cool the brakes? I lost a lot of brake effectiveness after one track day, most laps top speed drop was 120mph to 50mph. I was told my brakes smoked. I got new Stoptech pads, but I don't want them fading as well (haven't put them on yet). I don't have any pulsing, but the brake rotors did turn blue (like a gun barrel) after one set of 10 laps. 2019 GT2 AWD, factory stock.

The Stinger already has air kickups for brake cooling, like has already been said you need to run better pads and fluid for road course racing, the factory brakes just aren't setup for that level of abuse.

 

[turboAWD]

Swapping brembo pads is extremely easy. Take off wheel, pop out the two pins, pull out pads, spread pistons, reverse. Much quicker than typical floating calipers. If you're serious about tracking the car then you really should have a set of track pads that you install at the track. Don't run track pads on the street. It's best to have a set of rotors that were bedded with the matching pads, but hey. Can't have everything.

With the Wilwood aftermarket kit I had on my '05 LGT (in the front), I could swap ROTORS as well just by popping out the pads. Since that was my first non-floating caliper setup, sadly, I thought Brembos were like that too.. Alas...

 

[Ed B]

The Stinger already has air kickups for brake cooling, like has already been said you need to run better pads and fluid for road course racing, the factory brakes just aren't setup for that level of abuse.

From what I've seen elsewhere (there's a video on youtube, I THINK it's linked on this forum), the vents don't do diddly for brake cooling (despite what the guy in sales tells you), the vents are to route airflow around the wheels, but not to the center of the disk (as is required to effectively cool the brakes). Good news is, they are functional vents, so I want to hijack the airflow and cool my brakes. Not gonna worry 'bout it just yet, it's 13 degrees (F) outside and the brakes are damn-well cool enough.

 

[Ed B]

Stock stinger can run 10 hot lap?
How’s your engine oil temp?
And the gear box still running well after couple of hot lap?
I am going to track my car on February.

No problems, and it's been two months (it's my daily driver). Brakes were jinky for a bit, but working fine now (slowing at 0.7g from some undisclosed not-triple-digit speed on all season 18" tires). I would go with better pads and hi-temp DOT4 fluid. Engine oil temp -- I wasn't really monitoring it, engine temp was fine though. I was being entertained by the g meter, nothing spectacular though, it seems I'm plenty happy with 0.6g or thereabouts when cornering, I was hoping the GoPro would pick it up and record (I actually spent most of the time kind of looking out the windshield at all the pretty scenery moving by somewhat quickly) but alas the steering wheel blocked it. Honestly, I was so busy that I didn't even trip the lap timer and had to calculate lap speeds from the video (I can safely say that I can complete a lap of Mid Ohio at only 1 minute longer than Simon Pagenaud's fastest lap).

To be clear, I didn't run "10 hot laps" -- I ran 4 sets of 20 minutes each, roughly 10 hot laps (over 35 laps total) with about 40 minutes to cool between each set (and the last lap was for cooling down as well), and the first set was "follow the leader" with the instructor keeping it down to 100mph, so maybe 8 laps. I'm not responsible if you break something, but I would suggest that these cars LIKE to track. I did scrape a wheel on the track edge and chunked up a tire (in a separate moment of less-than-perfect control), but otherwise, she seems unscathed. Don't forget to disable traction and stability control, as they increase braking heat. Don't over trust the brakes, they do fade.

 

[Ozstung]

Thought I'd just fhrow this in here if you don't mind. 2 year/20,000 km service ( Did 19,100kms) brake wear.....10% therefore 90% left.

I'm not a hard breaker I look way off in the distance and just take the foot off the accelerator. I have been on a few meets where we did some heavy breaking. So personally I can't fault the compound we get down here.

 

[NS_Stinger]

From what I've seen elsewhere (there's a video on youtube, I THINK it's linked on this forum), the vents don't do diddly for brake cooling (despite what the guy in sales tells you), the vents are to route airflow around the wheels, but not to the center of the disk (as is required to effectively cool the brakes). Good news is, they are functional vents, so I want to hijack the airflow and cool my brakes. Not gonna worry 'bout it just yet, it's 13 degrees (F) outside and the brakes are damn-well cool enough.

I'm not refering to the ducts in the front bumper, yes those are for aero. I'm refering to ducts underneath the car that arent visible.

9:55 of this video shows them:

 

[oddball]

I'm not refering to the ducts in the front bumper, yes those are for aero. I'm refering to ducts underneath the car that arent visible.

9:55 of this video shows them:

Those flaps in the bottom panel are better than a kick to the teeth, but the flow under the car is going to be pretty laminar, so there won't be much going through those slots.
There's the air director panel on the back of the rotor, so adding ducts is much easier than many other cars. Just need to add tubing and run to a useful place in the front bumper that will actually grab air.

 

[Ozstung]

I'm not refering to the ducts in the front bumper, yes those are for aero. I'm refering to ducts underneath the car that arent visible.

9:55 of this video shows them:

Easily the best Stinger review I've seen, that guy knows his stuff. Thanks.

 

[NS_Stinger]

Easily the best Stinger review I've seen, that guy knows his stuff. Thanks.

His reviews are easily the most informative and technical you'll find anywhere. His only fault is that he has a bit of a negative attitute toward everything, even when he's praising a car it sounds negative. Still my favourite reviewer on YT though.

 

[Nasscar]

I'm not refering to the ducts in the front bumper, yes those are for aero. I'm refering to ducts underneath the car that arent visible.

9:55 of this video shows them:

Not a fan of the creaks and rattles.

 

[MerlintheMad]

Not a fan of the creaks and rattles.

Who is? I posted to his video, informing "everyone" that my c. 21 month-old GT1 is silent. So, the SS that he examined was an "unlucky" one.

 

[Ozstung]

I'm wondering if you Northern folk get more creaks and rattles because the temperatures are generally lower? I remember my WRX used to rattle in Winter though .

So far coming up to two years I hear very little internal noises. Occasionally something will be noisey for day.

 

[MerlintheMad]

I'm wondering if you Northern folk get more creaks and rattles because the temperatures are generally lower? I remember my WRX used to rattle in Winter though .

So far coming up to two years I hear very little internal noises. Occasionally something will be noisey for day.

I am sure that year-round temperature extremes play a part in some vehicles' extraneous noises manifesting. Also, I think that some people are more rough with their cars than they allow or realize; they think that they are being gentle, but the car has a differing "opinion". Example: last spring, I brought my car up to the place where my wife was waiting with her mother-in-law, and while she helped her into the front seat, a kindly bystander put the day bags and whatnot into the hatch, then SLAMMED the lid shut. WTH!? Are you a moron? I almost screamed this, but managed to mutter it under my breath. I never slam doors or the hatch, never. I only slammed my driver door once: when I thought I had killed my car by high-centering on a raised median ridge last year. When I close my hatch, I hold it c. four inches above the latch and let it drop. Some people are really rough and abrupt with "things" and haven't a clue that that might play into parts coming loose sooner rather than later.

 

[Nasscar]

I am sure that year-round temperature extremes play a part in some vehicles' extraneous noises manifesting. Also, I think that some people are more rough with their cars than they allow or realize; they think that they are being gentle, but the car has a differing "opinion". Example: last spring, I brought my car up to the place where my wife was waiting with her mother-in-law, and while she helped her into the front seat, a kindly bystander put the day bags and whatnot into the hatch, then SLAMMED the lid shut. WTH!? Are you a moron? I almost screamed this, but managed to mutter it under my breath. I never slam doors or the hatch, never. I only slammed my driver door once: when I thought I had killed my car by high-centering on a raised median ridge last year. When I close my hatch, I hold it c. four inches above the latch and let it drop. Some people are really rough and abrupt with "things" and haven't a clue that that might play into parts coming loose sooner rather than later.

I agree with that Merlin. My kids are good at slamming car doors. I have the auto hatch so I have to make sure no-one just closes it by hand as apparently this can damage it too.