Engine suddenly loses power, engine light comes on and rough idling.

[ja747453]

I own a 2022 Stinger Scorpion edition. about 2 months ago I was driving to work when suddenly I lost power, the engine light came on and the car won't accelerate past 2nd or 3rd gear. When I depress the gas pedal there was some "jitteriness" and when I stopped, it was very rough at idling. I opened the hood and checked the engine bay for some connector that could have been not plugged in properly or any other clue to the cause of the issue, but I didn't see anything out of the ordinary. I turned the engine off and turned it back on and the problem was gone. I drove the car for a couple of days with no issues but on the third day, the same problem came up. I took it to the KIA dealership and I was told that the PCV valve was bad. They replace the valve (after waiting about to weeks for the part to arrive to the dealership) and I picked up the vehicle; drove it the next day and ...... same issue. Called the dealership and told them about the problem. I was told to take it back and they would reassess the problem. After a month and a couple of "Flight runs" (where the technician connects a computer to the OBD connector to collect data for the KIA Techline), the dealership doesn't have a diagnose of the issue and they are still waiting to hear from KIA Techline for a resolution.
Does anyone else have a similar issue with your stinger?

 

[Kodiack]

Sounds like the overboost issue others experience, it puts the car in limp mode until restarted.

 

[Kia Stinger]

I own a 2022 Stinger Scorpion edition. about 2 months ago I was driving to work when suddenly I lost power, the engine light came on and the car won't accelerate past 2nd or 3rd gear. When I depress the gas pedal there was some "jitteriness" and when I stopped, it was very rough at idling. I opened the hood and checked the engine bay for some connector that could have been not plugged in properly or any other clue to the cause of the issue, but I didn't see anything out of the ordinary. I turned the engine off and turned it back on and the problem was gone. I drove the car for a couple of days with no issues but on the third day, the same problem came up. I took it to the KIA dealership and I was told that the PCV valve was bad. They replace the valve (after waiting about to weeks for the part to arrive to the dealership) and I picked up the vehicle; drove it the next day and ...... same issue. Called the dealership and told them about the problem. I was told to take it back and they would reassess the problem. After a month and a couple of "Flight runs" (where the technician connects a computer to the OBD connector to collect data for the KIA Techline), the dealership doesn't have a diagnose of the issue and they are still waiting to hear from KIA Techline for a resolution.
Does anyone else have a similar issue with your stinger?

Welcome! Just noting that this topic has been moved out of the community lounge and into the main Stinger discussion forum...

 

[ja747453]

Welcome! Just noting that this topic has been moved out of the community lounge and into the main Stinger discussion forum...

Thank s for letting me know! Hopefully there is someone out there who can shine a light on this issue.

 

[Kodiack]

Like I said above, sound like an overboost issue that sends the car into limp mode.
2022 are known for this especially when its cold out, Im also pretty sure it does not save an engine code in the ecu after the car is shut off.
I have a 2019 and have never had this but if you do a search of the forums many with 2022s have.

 

[bfglitch]

If it is overboost (although the jitteriness kinda makes me think it's not) it'll pop up a CEL if it happens twice in a row. So if it happens, you shut the car off and start it back up, then while driving it that time it happens again, the CEL will show up. Otherwise after the restart if it doesn't happen it stores it as a "pending" code if you hook up an OBD2 reader, but I'm not sure how long it'll store it like that for.

 

[ja747453]

Sounds like the overboost issue others experience, it puts the car in limp mode until restarted.

According to the technician who has worked on my vehicle since the beginning. After they replaced the PCV valve and I took it back to the dealership; he recommended a fuel system flush, because he found carbon build up on the cylinders due to the defective valve (according to him). After the flush, the technician introduced the borescope again and he found scratches on the cylinder walls. This last statement was relayed to me by the adviser that I usually talk to when I visit the dealership but was not on the report that was sent to KIA Techline (I have a copy of it) and I'm not sure how they omitted such an important detail. I was told by a mechanic friend of mine that the only way to know if those scratches (if they actually exist) are deep enough to let any oil pass, is to actually look into the cylinder walls by disassembling the engine (at least partially).
So I'm in the limbo not knowing the actual diagnose of the problem with my car.

 

[ja747453]

If it is overboost (although the jitteriness kinda makes me think it's not) it'll pop up a CEL if it happens twice in a row. So if it happens, you shut the car off and start it back up, then while driving it that time it happens again, the CEL will show up. Otherwise after the restart if it doesn't happen it stores it as a "pending" code if you hook up an OBD2 reader, but I'm not sure how long it'll store it like that for.

According to the technician who has worked on my vehicle since the beginning. After they replaced the PCV valve and I took it back to the dealership; he recommended a fuel system flush, because he found carbon build up on the cylinders due to the defective valve (according to him). After the flush, the technician introduced the borescope again and he found scratches on the cylinder walls. This last statement was relayed to me by the adviser that I usually talk to when I visit the dealership but was not on the report that was sent to KIA Techline (I have a copy of it) and I'm not sure how they omitted such an important detail. I was told by a mechanic friend of mine that the only way to know if those scratches (if they actually exist) are deep enough to let any oil pass, is to actually look into the cylinder walls by disassembling the engine (at least partially).
So I'm in the limbo not knowing the actual diagnose of the problem with my car.

 

[GT Elite]

Those “scratches” may be the cross-hatching that all new engines have. They are there to aid in engine break-in and ring sealing.

According to the technician who has worked on my vehicle since the beginning. After they replaced the PCV valve and I took it back to the dealership; he recommended a fuel system flush, because he found carbon build up on the cylinders due to the defective valve (according to him). After the flush, the technician introduced the borescope again and he found scratches on the cylinder walls. This last statement was relayed to me by the adviser that I usually talk to when I visit the dealership but was not on the report that was sent to KIA Techline (I have a copy of it) and I'm not sure how they omitted such an important detail. I was told by a mechanic friend of mine that the only way to know if those scratches (if they actually exist) are deep enough to let any oil pass, is to actually look into the cylinder walls by disassembling the engine (at least partially).
So I'm in the limbo not knowing the actual diagnose of the problem with my car.

 

[cwfl]

If it is overboost (although the jitteriness kinda makes me think it's not) it'll pop up a CEL if it happens twice in a row. So if it happens, you shut the car off and start it back up, then while driving it that time it happens again, the CEL will show up. Otherwise after the restart if it doesn't happen it stores it as a "pending" code if you hook up an OBD2 reader, but I'm not sure how long it'll store it like that for.

I have a 23s and overboost issue when in cold weather, but no CEL when in limp mode.

 

[bfglitch]

I have a 23s and overboost issue when in cold weather, but no CEL when in limp mode.

I've had it trip a CEL once. Only because it went into limp mode due to overboost again after I restarted it. If it doesn't happen in consecutive drive cycles, it won't trip a CEL.

 

[Kodiack]

So the carbon buildup you were told about is a common issue with GDI engines, the fuel never passes through the air intake at all so the PCV system bring oil vapors across the intake valves creating buildup more so than a non GDI engine.(get an Oil Catch Can) The fuel additive does nothing to solve this....its snake oil, the fuel never enters the intake valve system ever....only cure for this is intake removal and walnut blasting or with less effect cleanser through the air intake.
As for the scratches in the cylinders if they were serious enough to cause excessive blowby or loss of compression it indeed would not be an intermittent issue..it would be permanent...they can do a simple compression test to check. If you are burning oil through combustion you would smell it and the loss of oil between oil changes would be significant enough to notice.
I question the experience of your dealership if that is what they are telling you. I recommend you get a second opinion.

 

[cwfl]

I've had it trip a CEL once. Only because it went into limp mode due to overboost again after I restarted it. If it doesn't happen in consecutive drive cycles, it won't trip a CEL.

Thank you, good to know

 

[ja747453]

So the carbon buildup you were told about is a common issue with GDI engines, the fuel never passes through the air intake at all so the PCV system bring oil vapors across the intake valves creating buildup more so than a non GDI engine.(get an Oil Catch Can) The fuel additive does nothing to solve this....its snake oil, the fuel never enters the intake valve system ever....only cure for this is intake removal and walnut blasting or with less effect cleanser through the air intake.
As for the scratches in the cylinders if they were serious enough to cause excessive blowby or loss of compression it indeed would not be an intermittent issue..it would be permanent...they can do a simple compression test to check. If you are burning oil through combustion you would smell it and the loss of oil between oil changes would be significant enough to notice.
I question the experience of your dealership if that is what they are telling you. I recommend you get a second opinion.

Hello Kodiak,
as you were explaining things on your message, it does make a lot of sense; even a person like me that is not very mechanical incline can see the logic to your explanation. I read an article about GDI engines and how prone to carbon build up they are for the reasons you explained, but the dealership made it sound like whatever build up they found was excessive, not normal for an engine with 23500 miles on it. I had a Mishimoto oil catch can that I installed at around 5000 miles. when I took my vehicle to the dealership for this particular issue, I removed it, because I didn't want to give them any excuse to void my warranty. I do smell burning oil from time to time inside the cabin; it may as well be for that reason.

I'm assuming a certified mechanic working on a dealership with enough training from the manufacturer, should understand and perform at least some of the test you mentioned when he found scratches on the cylinder walls that may have caused an excessive blowby and I also agree that if that was the case the problem should be a permanent one and not an intermittent one. I also question the technician experience and the integrity of this dealership.

I do appreciate your input ..... Thank you!

 

[ja747453]

Today, I was finally contacted by KIA corporate/consumer affairs. The lady I spoke with over the phone, asked me a couple of questions about my issue and she had no clue about what is going on with the "KIA Techline". She seemed surprised when I told her that my vehicle it's been sitting at the dealership waiting to hear from the KIA engineers from the KIA Techline. She gave me a case number and told me that she was going to contact the dealership and speak to the service advisor and/or the service manager to get the whole story and to ask why is my vehicle still at the dealership for a little over a month. She said , she would call me or email me with an update and that she was going to escalate this issue to get the problem resolve as soon as possible.

I do not know if it would be wise to use a Lemon Law lawyer to see if I can get a more serious response to my issue and also get some compensation for the time I have not been able to drive my vehicle and still making payments to my financial institution as well as my car insurance. If I'm going to be paying for that ...... I want to be driving my car, not letting sit at a dealership.

 

[ja747453]

Those “scratches” may be the cross-hatching that all new engines have. They are there to aid in engine break-in and ring sealing.

Hello GT Elite. I do appreciate the input. The more knowledge I get from your comments, the better prepared I am for the next time I have to visit or call the dealership to talk about my car's issue.

Thank you!

 

[lostangeleman]

I own a 2022 Stinger Scorpion edition. about 2 months ago I was driving to work when suddenly I lost power, the engine light came on and the car won't accelerate past 2nd or 3rd gear. When I depress the gas pedal there was some "jitteriness" and when I stopped, it was very rough at idling. I opened the hood and checked the engine bay for some connector that could have been not plugged in properly or any other clue to the cause of the issue, but I didn't see anything out of the ordinary. I turned the engine off and turned it back on and the problem was gone. I drove the car for a couple of days with no issues but on the third day, the same problem came up. I took it to the KIA dealership and I was told that the PCV valve was bad. They replace the valve (after waiting about to weeks for the part to arrive to the dealership) and I picked up the vehicle; drove it the next day and ...... same issue. Called the dealership and told them about the problem. I was told to take it back and they would reassess the problem. After a month and a couple of "Flight runs" (where the technician connects a computer to the OBD connector to collect data for the KIA Techline), the dealership doesn't have a diagnose of the issue and they are still waiting to hear from KIA Techline for a resolution.
Does anyone else have a similar issue with your stinger?

YUP!!!! this exact thing happened to me. maybe. not exact but it went into a mode when i couldn’t drive the car over 30kms without the entire damn thing rocking back and forth. before this, i had one really rough cold start but after the car had been running for a good 40km drive. it was a shuttering start and the car stalled and turned off. this was ruled out by the dealer since it was legit just the week after buying the car. it went to the dealership and was an electronic issue regarding how much power would be sent to the turbos, which explained the really rough ride and check engine light, they did their tech thing and. i got the car back running how it should.

no issues since thankfully. it’s been driving smooth and gotten its service done. driving great now on summer tires. if it’s under warranty, it shouldn’t be an issue to fix, even if not i don’t think a dealer would deny fixing the issue for free unless it’s something else going wrong. get an OBD2 port scanner and even self check what it is since ur getting a check engine:

 

[lostangeleman]

Sounds like the overboost issue others experience, it puts the car in limp mode until restarted.

can confirm this happened to me except it kept the check engine on for me until the dealer did a reset,

 

[G-577025]

YUP!!!! this exact thing happened to me. maybe. not exact but it went into a mode when i couldn’t drive the car over 30kms without the entire damn thing rocking back and forth. before this, i had one really rough cold start but after the car had been running for a good 40km drive. it was a shuttering start and the car stalled and turned off. this was ruled out by the dealer since it was legit just the week after buying the car. it went to the dealership and was an electronic issue regarding how much power would be sent to the turbos, which explained the really rough ride and check engine light, they did their tech thing and. i got the car back running how it should.

no issues since thankfully. it’s been driving smooth and gotten its service done. driving great now on summer tires. if it’s under warranty, it shouldn’t be an issue to fix, even if not i don’t think a dealer would deny fixing the issue for free unless it’s something else going wrong. get an OBD2 port scanner and even self check what it is since ur getting a check engine:

what was the code that you were getting?