3.3TT Engine Oil & Brakes

[I Stung U]

Re: Oil.
So, my dealership service folks tell me the car comes from factory with a Synthetic blend (not full Synthetic), but that after wards, Reg. 5w 30 is permitted, even for warranty safe min. requirements.
Apparently, conventional 5w 30 is warranty safe and Synthetic is not a requirement.

Is the same in U.S. ? I haven't read my manual yet. I'm running to the car to get it and read it tonight.

If so, that's good for keeping costs down.
Maybe I'll put the Blended anyways, if it's better for the engine, to be good to it. If I'm not tracking it regularly and driving normal, I guess Full synthetic is really not necessary ? Better, but not a big deal ?
But they recommend I use their oil filter, as not many aftermarket for it, out there.
I have a $60 gift card from the dealership, so I'll pick up 3 of them to keep and ready to use.

Re: Brake replacement (when needed).
I'm not a techy guy for this stuff. So, when pads need replacing, are the big Red Brembo brake part of the pads, as one big part/assembly ? or are the pads separate and you can buy other brand/model and they are fitted inside that big red thing ?
What other brands (affordable options) are available ?
I came across this at a local performance store. I Don't want to spend more than I have too. I want to keep the Sport Brake theme going, but keep it affordable.

Power Stop Z23-1284 Z23 Evolution Sport Brake Pads With Hardware (rear) | Tdot Performance

Re: fog Lights.. Hmm..
Why this car was built without fog lights ? There's a spot on both sides of the front lower grill design thingy (triangular shaped), that could of been a good spot for them ? Odd !!

 

[Sam Ian]

The dealer told me the same thing, conventional oil for oil changes. Given that this car has a 10 year warranty I'm going to have the dealer do all oil changes with whatever they recommend to avoid any issues in the future. I am very particular about oil, I used full synthetic Motul in my Audi every 5000K miles, but that car was out of warranty.

For the brake pads, the big red things are the calipers - they hold the brake pads. I've used powerstop pads before and they are fine but make sure that they fit these calipers.

 

[I Stung U]

Manual says API SM/ ILSAC-GF-4 and higher. Doesn't mention SN or SN Plus or Acea A1 OR A5/B5 ETC..

But when I go to websites that sell oil, I I select oils with GF-5, their system tells me this oil is not for my STinger GT.. so do 3rd party oil places know something we don't or that KIA is not telling us ?
I seen a Castrol Video saying GDI engines are more prone to gunk build up and future problems/knock, etc... , so higher level of oil is really what to use.
So, does kia allow conventional oil, cause they know it'll only be an issue in the long run, so they hope the have issues to make money for dealers in repair costs later ?
Or is it really safe to use the min oil Requirement ?
I think it's best to just use Synthetic, if it's better at keeping it clean and no gunk build up inside there.

 

[I Stung U]

The dealer told me the same thing, conventional oil for oil changes. Given that this car has a 10 year warranty I'm going to have the dealer do all oil changes with whatever they recommend to avoid any issues in the future. I am very particular about oil, I used full synthetic Motul in my Audi every 5000K miles, but that car was out of warranty.

For the brake pads, the big red things are the calipers - they hold the brake pads. I've used powerstop pads before and they are fine but make sure that they fit these calipers.

we only have 100kms (63K miles) warranty in Canada ! Screw us over here)
Service told me it comes with a blend, and I can continue to use a blend or full synthetic... it's all good.
Just thinking, as long as it's all good, if there's a chance of sludge build up or knock, in a GDI engine, I'm leaning towards using what's better for it's long life, so I don't have issues right after the warranty expires... with any bad luck.
I assume they'd be aware of this and recommend oil to avoid it, but would manufactures not suggest the best way for engine longevity ? to make money later ? or ?

Also oil companies can exaggerate the sludge build up issue in gdi engines to sell the more costly oils they make ?

Any Engineers/Pros in this field to give feedback on this ?

 

[Sam Ian]

I'm not an engineer but I don't disagree - Synthetic oil is definitely better especially with the high heat generated by the Turbos.
Given that your warranty is only 63K miles I would choose a Synthetic Oil.

 

[eflyguy]

Manual says API SM/ ILSAC-GF-4 and higher.

If you use oil that meets those specs, then they can't deny warranty.

That said, if you plan to keep a vehicle long-term, use what makes you comfortable. I use Mobil 1 exclusively in all my 4-wheeled vehicles, which includes my 2003 F150, my 2015 Sorento, and of course the Stinger. It costs me <$30 and I change it every 5000 miles.

I guess if you're paying a stealership to "service" your vehicle, the cost difference could be significant. I've never taken a vehicle in for regular service.

Why this car was built without fog lights ?

There isn't a single US-market vehicle I'm aware of that has functional fog lights like you find outside the US, and that includes a couple of mercedes and audis I'm familiar with. They are simply additional "bling" that do more harm than good in actual fog.

 

[I Stung U]

O.k just found this Very Interesting article. Must Read !
It says how oil in europe is more advanced in their min. requirements, due to they wanting longer lasting engines, etc..
Some manufacturers not making higher grade oil a min requirement, is likely due to their lack of care of the consumers car's engine longevity.
So, they don't care, and they likely want it to break down later on..
Hmm... So using Synthetic in GDI, especially in tubo gdi's is key to avoid knock, sludge etc. and something called LSPI that can cause engine failure...
So, Full Synthetic min. of SN-Plus rating for my Stinger !!!

Out with the Old: New Oil for New Engines | MOTOR

 

[I Stung U]

If you use oil that meets those specs, then they can't deny warranty.

That said, if you plan to keep a vehicle long-term, use what makes you comfortable. I use Mobil 1 exclusively in all my 4-wheeled vehicles, which includes my 2003 F150, my 2015 Sorento, and of course the Stinger. It costs me <$30 and I change it every 5000 miles.

I guess if you're paying a stealership to "service" your vehicle, the cost difference could be significant. I've never taken a vehicle in for regular service.



There isn't a single US-market vehicle I'm aware of that has functional fog lights like you find outside the US, and that includes a couple of mercedes and audis I'm familiar with. They are simply additional "bling" that do more harm than good in actual fog.

I'm not going to the stealership. haha.. but local places, the cheapest I found which uses a local Canadian brand "Big Red" full synthetic is $89 plus tax with after market oil filter. Stealership is approx. $150 taxes in (13% here).
Though I went somewhere that's more expensive by a bit, cause my stepson works and his boss came over for dinner once for his Bday, so kinda feel like I gotta build relationship, etc..

I am not sure if I will keep it long term or not. I'll go with the flow and make that call around the 4 year mark. As long as it's been running well and no signs of real issues from others here with higher mileage than me on it by then, and all seems safe... then I'll go another2-3 years.
Or maybe upgrade to a new model then, if it's still awesome and new one is better.
We only have 63K miles bumper to bumper and powertrain here! I guess they figure (like the oil change language) that it's harsher conditions up here in the north pole haha... and they'll not give us same as our U.S. neighbors.

What warranty does the U.K. and Down Under get ?

 

[Ozstung]

I'm not going to the stealership. haha.. but local places, the cheapest I found which uses a local Canadian brand "Big Red" full synthetic is $89 plus tax with after market oil filter. Stealership is approx. $150 taxes in (13% here).
Though I went somewhere that's more expensive by a bit, cause my stepson works and his boss came over for dinner once for his Bday, so kinda feel like I gotta build relationship, etc..

I am not sure if I will keep it long term or not. I'll go with the flow and make that call around the 4 year mark. As long as it's been running well and no signs of real issues from others here with higher mileage than me on it by then, and all seems safe... then I'll go another2-3 years.
Or maybe upgrade to a new model then, if it's still awesome and new one is better.
We only have 63K miles bumper to bumper and powertrain here! I guess they figure (like the oil change language) that it's harsher conditions up here in the north pole haha... and they'll not give us same as our U.S. neighbors.

What warranty does the U.K. and Down Under get ?

Down here it's a 7 year warranty.