3.3TT Differential Fluid Change

[blckshp01]

I know that there is a lot of questions out there about what oil to use or not use when it comes to fluid changes. I do believe that the technology in all the oil manufactures are of a good quality standard and we all have our favorites for what ever reason that is. I just wanted to share my experience on my recent differential fluid change on my 2022 Stinger GT2 using Mobil 1.

I have used Mobil 1 full synthetic on all my oil changes for all vehicles for many years. So I thought I would give the Mobil 1 LS 75W-90 GL-5 gear oil a go on the differential. Within the first mile of driving I could hear a slight noise from the rear of the car, and instantly knew the oil must not have enough friction modifier for the LS application. Over the next few days it got worse with every turn that was made. After reading several Stinger owners posts using the Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 I decided to try it. Before ordering the product I did contact Amsoil to ask if there was enough friction modifier in the Severe gear for my application and the response was "Yes". I didn't take their word for it completely so I also purchased the Amsoil Slip Lock just in case.

I changed the Diff. oil again (without the slip lock) and there is no more noise from the Differential. My hopes in this thread is to not get anyone to choose a specific brand but to share with you guys that even though a product shows it "meets the label requirement" that it just may not have exactly what our cars need. So even after using our go to products still keep an eye and ear open on our Stingers.

 

[NS_Stinger]

Thanks for sharing your experience, maybe it will save another member some time and money.

 

[oddball]

Right, it's been shown that the Stinger diff needs more anti-slip additive than most diffs, which means going ahead and adding a few ounces of additive to most oils. I don't think the oil manufacturers will give you good information. They'll automatically say "yes" because they made an additive package that works in general. So unless they specifically tested the Stinger - AND - are willing to admit that their package isn't "compatible", then they'll always say "yes".
So just add the oil of your choice. If it's noisy, add 2 to 3 ounces of additive. If it's still noisy then switch to a different oil. I'm using Valvoline LS with an extra 3oz additive. I just added the additive right away.

 

[AWDGT2]

I know that there is a lot of questions out there about what oil to use or not use when it comes to fluid changes. I do believe that the technology in all the oil manufactures are of a good quality standard and we all have our favorites for what ever reason that is. I just wanted to share my experience on my recent differential fluid change on my 2022 Stinger GT2 using Mobil 1.

I have used Mobil 1 full synthetic on all my oil changes for all vehicles for many years. So I thought I would give the Mobil 1 LS 75W-90 GL-5 gear oil a go on the differential. Within the first mile of driving I could hear a slight noise from the rear of the car, and instantly knew the oil must not have enough friction modifier for the LS application. Over the next few days it got worse with every turn that was made. After reading several Stinger owners posts using the Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 I decided to try it. Before ordering the product I did contact Amsoil to ask if there was enough friction modifier in the Severe gear for my application and the response was "Yes". I didn't take their word for it completely so I also purchased the Amsoil Slip Lock just in case.

I changed the Diff. oil again (without the slip lock) and there is no more noise from the Differential. My hopes in this thread is to not get anyone to choose a specific brand but to share with you guys that even though a product shows it "meets the label requirement" that it just may not have exactly what our cars need. So even after using our go to products still keep an eye and ear open on our Stingers.

I did this 3 years ago, wish you would have caught it.

 

[Snowwhite]

I used the Motul Gear 300 LS 2 Liter 75W90 with no issues in my LSD-equipped RWD GT2.
in the US, up until 2020, LSD was only on the RWD GT2 and the AWD GTS. so an AWD GT2 doesn't have it.
for 2020, all RWD GTs got the LSD, and the Indigo edition did as well. other AWDs didn't.
I don't know if they made any changes after that for the 2022s. Easiest way to check is to look for the "LSD" by the fill bolt.

 

[rtv900]

I just used regular 75-90 mobil and have no issues

 

[Snowwhite]

I just used regular 75-90 mobil and have no issues

you probably don't have a limited slip diff then. that's ok. the only ones that are picky are the LSD diffs.

 

[rtv900]

you probably don't have a limited slip diff then. that's ok. the only ones that are picky are the LSD diffs.

how would I know?
mine's AWD 2022 3.3

 

[Snowwhite]

how would I know?
mine's AWD 2022 3.3

if you have an LSD you'd see big LSD letters near the fill plug on the diff.

 

[alex_man120]

I went on amsoil website and it says I should get the 75w-85 gear oil instead of the 75w-90. Is there a difference between the two? Or would you guys still recommend the 90?

 

[rtv900]

probably won't make a lick of a difference but 75-90 is so readily available I'd just get that since that's what it calls for

 

[Volfy]

I went on amsoil website and it says I should get the 75w-85 gear oil instead of the 75w-90. Is there a difference between the two? Or would you guys still recommend the 90?

Not enough to worry about. In fact, for those of us who live - and drive - in warmer climate, having a bit higher viscosity index at higher temps is actually not a bad thing. Especially if you likes to hammer your car hard on hot Summer days.

 

[joe1234]

Im looking for some anecdotes from those that have changed their own rear differential oil, specifically if it was a stinger LSD. I had my stinger in for a diff fluid change at my mechanic's shop (he has no prior experience with stingers) and when attempting to crack the diff drain plug he noted it needed a little more force then he expected. This is the first time the diff has been touched as everything is all original from the factory. Once he did crack the plug free free the first few turns were not smooth, almost like it was binding a little. I saw him doing it, it was all by hand (no air tools) and he didn't do anything crazy but he noted something felt a little "off". He mentioned to me that he would expect to be able to spin it off freely by hand and he was worried it may have been over tightened at the factory or something and didn't want to strip the threads just in case. He tightened everything back up and suggested I take it to the dealer for the diff fluid change in the event the threads were stripped, at least it would be warranty repair and not on my dime.

My question to you all:

• Does what I describe seem normal for the stinger? or do you think something is up based on your experience with it?
• I see mention but no solid evidence that the diff drain plug may be installed with a red sealant on the threads? Maybe this is why it wasn't smooth backing it off?
• Should I bring it back to him to try again or should I over pay at the dealer because something seems wrong here?

 

[blckshp01]

Joe1234, I had this very same thing happen when I changed my diff fluid. It was snug all the way out and the threads looked great. I wasn't happy with the fluid I put in so a week later I changed it out and the same thing with the drain plug, it felt snug all the way out. Not sure if this is normal but at least I now know it wasn't just my Stinger. Hopefully all is well with yours.

 

[rtv900]

• Does what I describe seem normal for the stinger? or do you think something is up based on your experience with it?
• I see mention but no solid evidence that the diff drain plug may be installed with a red sealant on the threads? Maybe this is why it wasn't smooth backing it off?
• Should I bring it back to him to try again or should I over pay at the dealer because something seems wrong here?

it's not about normal "for a stinger". It's normal for anything. I've done trans's and diff's on at least 15 cars over the years. The fill plugs are always insanely tight, half the time need a pipe to break loose. Drain plugs can be just as bad.

His statement about it being "tight all the way out and not wanting to strip the threads" is simply totally off base. (I run a machine shop and practically every part we make has tapped holes ranging from #2-64's right up to thread milled holes 6" in diameter and about 200 more in between)
So first off, if it was overtightened at the factory (which is possible but unlikely), then the damage is already done and backing out the bolt will do nothing more to it, period. Removing it completely will put you in precisely an identical position that you are in now, you just "put it back in." You can't "strip the threads" by backing out a bolt. The threads are engaged right now, that's all there is to it. Going forward more can strip them, but backing out simply backs them out.

2nd, "tight all the way out" is ultra subjective. It's like asking if a car's ride is comfortable. Like how tight all the way out? sort of tight or really tight or kind of sort of tight? Nobody knows.
if there's sealant on them it's going to drag the whole way out especially if it's a straight thread and not a pipe thread (I've done my stinger twice and I still don't remember now between all my cars)

And most importantly, even if that thread is jacked up and you take it to a dealer, they sure as hell aren't going to come out and tell you the thread is trashed and they want to start a warranty claim for your entire diff. They'll goop that thing up with sealant and drive it back in.

If it is messed up, which I think is extremely unlikely, absolute worst case is it's going to drip a tiny tiny amount and in about 50 years your diff will be out of oil if you don't check it once a decade. Diff leaks always look worse than they are.

And on top of all that, it's the drain, so it faces down. That means worst, worst worst case it is screwed, you have access to drill and tap next size up. If it were the fill plug you'd be doomed because there would be no way to get access from the side to tap. But the drain is great because there is a clear path straight down. Slightly messed up threads you can even just run a tap in and nothing more to clear burrs. And then pour some waste oil back in the fill and let it drain right back out to flush any chips out that might have been left.

 

[Yeti]

I changed the front differential fluid yesterday. 2019 GTS AWD. Noticed what appeared to be gear oil near the front differential drain plug while getting ready to do an oil change. If you decide to DIY, be ready. There was a lot bad language coming from the garage

 

[rtv900]

isn't the front one supposed to be a nightmare job? Like the access is horrible?
how did you access it?

 

[blnewt]

I changed the front differential fluid yesterday. 2019 GTS AWD. Noticed what appeared to be gear oil near the front differential drain plug while getting ready to do an oil change. If you decide to DIY, be ready. There was a lot bad language coming from the garage

Glad I only have a rear one

 

[Yeti]

I watched a YouTube video to assist in locating the fill plug. Access is horrible. You have about an 1/8” viewing window to see the fill plug from underneath and can only see it if you are at the correct angle.
Access is from the front with enough extensions to clear the sway bar but not too much to contact the radiator. The plug was either loctited in or torqued to some huge value. Used a 1/2” breaker bar with a cheater to break it loose. Thought I was going to shear the 10mm hex

 

[rtv900]

I watched a YouTube video to assist in locating the fill plug. Access is horrible. You have about an 1/8” viewing window to see the fill plug from underneath and can only see it if you are at the correct angle.
Access is from the front with enough extensions to clear the sway bar but not too much to contact the radiator. The plug was either loctited in or torqued to some huge value. Used a 1/2” breaker bar with a cheater to break it loose. Thought I was going to shear the 10mm hex

jesus
why is the guy at the factory in charge of differential plugs always the dude on roids