Change brake fluid

[El Flama Blanca]

I had a 2022 GT-Line with 59k miles. The brake fluid has never been changed. Is there any DIY tutorials for this? Do I need to fully drain the fluid that is currently in there?

 

[Thomby]

I had a 2022 GT-Line with 59k miles. The brake fluid has never been changed. Is there any DIY tutorials for this? Do I need to fully drain the fluid that is currently in there?

No, you can just do a normal brake bleed: have a friend pump the brakes, crack open the bleeder and let some fluid out, close bleeder and release brakes. Top off reservoir as needed in between wheels.

If you have Brembos, you have two bleeders per caliper (inside then outside), and the guideline of starting at the furthest wheel doesn't hold; instead they say to start at the front right and work counter clockwise. Probably doesn't matter on a well-maintained car this new; doubt you have air in the lines so you're just purging the bit of fluid nearest the hot calipers.

Kia Stinger - Brake System

Might as well check your brake pad life before you get start, since it's an easy job to combine if needed.

 

[El Flama Blanca]

No, you can just do a normal brake bleed: have a friend pump the brakes, crack open the bleeder and let some fluid out, close bleeder and release brakes. Top off reservoir as needed in between wheels.

If you have Brembos, you have two bleeders per caliper (inside then outside), and the guideline of starting at the furthest wheel doesn't hold; instead they say to start at the front right and work counter clockwise. Probably doesn't matter on a well-maintained car this new; doubt you have air in the lines so you're just purging the bit of fluid nearest the hot calipers.

Kia Stinger - Brake System

Might as well check your brake pad life before you get start, since it's an easy job to combine if needed.

Okay cool thank you. I just had my brakes and rotors replaced a few months ago.

 

[ht_addict]

I had a 2022 GT-Line with 59k miles. The brake fluid has never been changed. Is there any DIY tutorials for this? Do I need to fully drain the fluid that is currently in there?

Having any issues, requiring the need to change?

 

[G-144722]

Having any issues, requiring the need to change?

No issues and the Kia app says the brake fluid is good. But I figured after basically 60k miles, figured it might be time to do it idk

 

[oddball]

Brake fluid "should" be changed every 5 years or so because it absorbs moisture. But, really, it can last much longer without any issue.
It's a bit more convenient to suction out the fluid from the reservoir before starting instead of pushing all that oil fluid through the system first - and blending old with new in the reservoir until it's all flushed out.

 

[Thomby]

Brake fluid "should" be changed every 5 years or so because it absorbs moisture. But, really, it can last much longer without any issue.
It's a bit more convenient to suction out the fluid from the reservoir before starting instead of pushing all that oil fluid through the system first - and blending old with new in the reservoir until it's all flushed out.

With the exception of an old car with questionable fluid, I've always just bled mine periodically (annually?) figuring the foot of fluid nearest each caliper is what's vulnerable to heat & moisture. And the upstream stuff that works its way through stays pretty protected.

I guess the stuff in the reservoir could absorb moisture, but on a modern car I think they stay pretty well sealed. My old Z car, on the other hand, had some pretty nasty & yellowed fluid, and since you could still get Super Blue Racing fluid, it was very obvious when we finally got the new stuff pushed to each caliper.

 

[Volfy]

A lot depends on where you live and how you drive your car. If you live in the desert Southwest and all you do is commuting, you can probably get away with not changing you brake fluid.

However, if you live near humid Gulf Coast and track your car like we do, flushing every 2yrs is a must. Old wet brake fluid has lower boiling temp, so you run the risk of vapor lock when your brakes get nice and toasty.

Racing high temp brake fluid has its drawbacks, as they are event more hydroscopic. Unless you're a serious track runner, it's not worth the even more frequent brake fluid change.

As for the methods, I'm old school. A length of clear tubing is all the tool you'll need, if you have a helper to pump the pedal. I'm sure there is some reason for that odd Brembo bleed order. I don't always remember so i just make sure i bleed all 8 nipples thoroughly. Brake fluid is cheap. Run plenty thru till it comes out crystal clear and bubble free.

 

[D.J.]

Last time I changed my brake fluid, I just opened all the bleeders and let gravity do the work...

I monitored the fluid level in the reservoir, and drained approx 2 reservoirs worth of fluid.

Someone will surely tell me this method was wrong... I'm cool with that.

 

[ht_addict]

Brake fluid "should" be changed every 5 years or so because it absorbs moisture. But, really, it can last much longer without any issue.
It's a bit more convenient to suction out the fluid from the reservoir before starting instead of pushing all that oil fluid through the system first - and blending old with new in the reservoir until it's all flushed out.

If it is a sealed system and you dont open the lid how can it absorb moisture?

 

[Thomby]

Racing high temp brake fluid has its drawbacks, as they are event more hydroscopic

Main reason I put Super Blue in my old Z was the color, to avoid playing "how dark is too dark?" with the standard yellow. The fluid turned out to be so old & nasty it wouldn't have mattered, but I'm still disappointed DOT banned colored brake fluids because alternating Super Blue and regular ATE is such an easy way to see when you've pushed new fluid through.

I just opened all the bleeders and let gravity do the work...

I don't think there's anything inherently "wrong" here. Without pedal pressure you probably won't get even amounts out of each given their distance and different bends/heights of the brake circuit, but if you sent a couple full reservoirs through and saw a generous amount from each bleeder, mission accomplished.

I replaced hard lines on a truck and worried I wouldn't be sure I'd fully purged air, but I got old fluid, a very obvious burp, then new fluid. If the fluid wasn't obviously aged, and there wasn't pressure in the lines, I could see it being ambiguous, but again you could probably make up for that with sheer volume/time.

 

[GT Elite]

It is important to ensure that the correct brake fluid is used. DOT 3 and DOT 4 can be used somewhat interchangeably. DOT 4 is a higher performance fluid than DOT 3 as it has a higher boiling point. However, it is also more hydroscopic than DOT 3.

DOT 5 CANNOT be intermixed with DOT 3/4 fluids, as it will gel. DOT 5 is silicone based and it is not hydroscopic. It is meant for “museum” type cars that are not driven much or that hard, as it has a lower boiling point than DOT 3/4 fluids.

 

[socalvn]

What about ABS doesn't that need to be opened via computer to allow a complete change, I did mine at the dealer to maintain warranty

 

[Thomby]

DOT 5 CANNOT be intermixed with DOT 3/4 fluids, as it will gel. DOT 5 is silicone based and it is not hydroscopic. It is meant for “museum” type cars that are not driven much or that hard, as it has a lower boiling point than DOT 3/4 fluids.

DOT 5 has a higher boiling point and is very stable (and non-corrosive), the issue is that it can't handle the rapid pulsation of ABS.

There's also DOT 5.1, follows 3 & 4: glycol based, compatible to mix, higher boiling temps. But what an awful naming scheme. DOT 5 should've been named something like "DOT S" to separate it, leaving 5 as the successor to 4.

What about ABS doesn't that need to be opened via computer to allow a complete change, I did mine at the dealer to maintain warranty

I can't imagine anyone has had a warranty denied due to bleeding their brakes without a dealer firing the ABS module. You could get one of those diagnostic modules that'll send the command via ODBII, or take your car for a spirited braking session to cycle fluid through. But the fluid in the ABS pump is pretty well protected from water & extreme heat, so probably fine until the car gets up there in age.

 

[socalvn]

I was just watching legit street cars he was using a meter to test moisture in the brake fluid

 

[socalvn]

DOT 5 has a higher boiling point and is very stable (and non-corrosive), the issue is that it can't handle the rapid pulsation of ABS.

There's also DOT 5.1, follows 3 & 4: glycol based, compatible to mix, higher boiling temps. But what an awful naming scheme. DOT 5 should've been named something like "DOT S" to separate it, leaving 5 as the successor to 4.


I can't imagine anyone has had a warranty denied due to bleeding their brakes without a dealer firing the ABS module. You could get one of those diagnostic modules that'll send the command via ODBII, or take your car for a spirited braking session to cycle fluid through. But the fluid in the ABS pump is pretty well protected from water & extreme heat, so probably fine until the car gets up there in age.

No I just wanted it documented in case any component ever failed wasn't worried about self service, still believe the ABS module needs to be open via computer for a complete flush

 

[D.J.]

I was just watching legit street cars he was using a meter to test moisture in the brake fluid

Was it one of these types?

 

[Ah GetFd]

I had a 2022 GT-Line with 59k miles. The brake fluid has never been changed. Is there any DIY tutorials for this? Do I need to fully drain the fluid that is currently in there?

Capped Price Service
The dealer recommended service performs a brake fluid change on Stingers each 20,000kms (12,000 miles)

They use a machine that pushes the brake fluid out and replaces it with new brake fluid

For this they charge about $150 within the service cost

Model	Year	Engine	Transmission	Costs
Stinger GT-Line	2022	2.0 T-GDI Turbo Petrol	8 Speed Auto	View Cost
Service Interval (whichever occurs first) Price What's Covered 1 Year or 10,000 km $312.00 What's Covered 2 Years or 20,000 km $498.00 What's Covered [td] Your Authorised Kia dealer will perform these tasks at the time of this service: Add Genuine Oil System Cleaner Replace Engine Oil with 5W/30 A5 Replace Oil Filter with Genuine Filter Replace Sump Plug Washer with Genuine Washer Add Genuine Fuel Additive Replace Brake Fluid with Genuine Brake fluid Replace Cabin Pollen Filter with Genuine Filter Top up Windscreen Washer fluid with Genuine Windscreen Washer Fluid Inspect Engine Air Filter Inspect Fuel Tank Air Filter Inspect Drive Belts Inspect Vacuum and Crankcase Ventilation Hoses Inspect Exhaust System Visually Inspect Battery Condition Inspect Brake Lines and Hoses Inspect Park Brake and adjust if necessary Inspect Disc Brakes and Disc Pad Condition Inspect Power Steering System Inspect Tyres (Pressure & Tread) Inspect Driveshaft Boots Inspect Propeller Shaft - Clean, Tighten Inspect Suspension Ball Joints Inspect Air Conditioner Compressor Inspect Air Conditioner Refrigerant Inspect Intercooler Hoses and Intake Reset Service Indicator on Dash Display Check for Outstanding Service Campaigns and Recalls Connect Kia Diagnostic System (KDS) and check for DTC`s Kia Roadside Assistance Activation Perform Quality Control Road Test

​

[/td]

4 Years or 40,000 km	$751.00	What's Covered

[td]

Your Authorised Kia dealer will perform these tasks at the time of this service:

• Add Genuine Oil System Cleaner
• Replace Engine Oil with 5W/30 A5
• Replace Oil Filter with Genuine Filter
• Replace Sump Plug Washer with Genuine Washer
• Add Genuine Fuel Additive
• Replace Brake Fluid with Genuine Brake fluid
• Replace Cabin Pollen Filter with Genuine Filter
• Replace Fuel Tank Air Filter with Genuine Filter
• Replace Rear Differential Oil
• Replace Rear Differential drain plug/washer and filler gasket with Genuine Parts.
• Top up Windscreen Washer fluid with Genuine Windscreen Washer Fluid
• Inspect Engine Air Filter
• Inspect Cooling System
• Inspect Drive Belts
• Inspect Vacuum and Crankcase Ventilation Hoses
• Inspect Fuel Lines and Hoses
• Inspect Exhaust System
• Visually Inspect Battery Condition
• Inspect Brake Lines and Hoses
• Inspect Park Brake and adjust if necessary
• Inspect Disc Brakes and Disc Pad Condition
• Inspect Power Steering System
• Inspect Tyres (Pressure & Tread)
• Inspect Driveshaft Boots
• Inspect Propeller Shaft - Clean, Tighten
• Inspect Suspension Ball Joints
• Inspect Air Conditioner Compressor
• Inspect Air Conditioner Refrigerant
• Inspect Intercooler Hoses and Intake
• Inspect Vapour Hose, Fuel and Filler Cap
• Reset Service Indicator on Dash Display
• Check for Outstanding Service Campaigns and Recalls
• Connect Kia Diagnostic System (KDS) and check for DTC`s
• Kia Roadside Assistance Activation
• Perform Quality Control Road Test

[/td]​

6 Years or 60,000 km	$635.00	What's Covered

[td]

Your Authorised Kia dealer will perform these tasks at the time of this service:

• Add Genuine Oil System Cleaner
• Replace Engine Oil with 5W/30 A5
• Replace Oil Filter with Genuine Filter
• Replace Sump Plug Washer with Genuine Washer
• Add Genuine Fuel Additive
• Replace Engine Air Filter with Genuine Filter
• Replace Brake Fluid with Genuine Brake fluid
• Replace Cabin Pollen Filter with Genuine Filter
• Top up Windscreen Washer fluid with Genuine Windscreen Washer Fluid
• Inspect Fuel Tank Air Filter
• Inspect Cooling System
• Inspect Drive Belts
• Inspect Vacuum and Crankcase Ventilation Hoses
• Inspect Exhaust System
• Visually Inspect Battery Condition
• Inspect Brake Lines and Hoses
• Inspect Park Brake and adjust if necessary
• Inspect Disc Brakes and Disc Pad Condition
• Inspect Power Steering System
• Inspect Tyres (Pressure & Tread)
• Inspect Driveshaft Boots
• Inspect Propeller Shaft - Clean, Tighten
• Inspect Suspension Ball Joints
• Inspect Air Conditioner Compressor
• Inspect Air Conditioner Refrigerant
• Inspect Intercooler Hoses and Intake
• Inspect Valve Clearance (Audible Only)
• Reset Service Indicator on Dash Display
• Check for Outstanding Service Campaigns and Recalls
• Connect Kia Diagnostic System (KDS) and check for DTC`s
• Kia Roadside Assistance Activation
• Perform Quality Control Road Test

[/td]​

 

[oddball]

What about ABS doesn't that need to be opened via computer to allow a complete change, I did mine at the dealer to maintain warranty

There is a procedure to cycle the ABS pump. There are small twisty passages in there, so normal bleeding may not get all the air out. Same thing as needing to bench-bleed new master cylinders. But this is only necessary if air enters the system before the ABS pump, like replacing the ABS pump, replacing the master, the lines between them, or letting the master run dry and pump air while bleeding brakes.

If it is a sealed system and you dont open the lid how can it absorb moisture?

It's not sealed. The reservoir cap has an air bleed in it so fluid can move in and out as the pads wear. The fluid is so hydroscopic that it'll pull moisture straight through the rubber brake lines and the seals around the caliper pistons.
Sure, the system is "liquid tight", but we're talking about vapor permeation through rubber. It happens, just not super fast.

 

[Thomby]

The reservoir cap has an air bleed in it so fluid can move in and out as the pads wear. The fluid is so hydroscopic that it'll pull moisture straight through the rubber brake lines and the seals around the caliper pistons.

I always figured the two ends (reservoir and pistons) as the sources, but not the rubber lines themselves. I wonder how much difference swapping to braided stainless lines (with what I assume are water-proof teflon liners) makes.

Even though the rubber lines are basically new in my 2022, I find the brake pedal a little soft vs. my prior cars. I assume they just have the brake boost dialed up since it's a modern car and a GT, but I wonder if taking whatever little bit of line flex out would make a difference.