Car Will Barely Accelerate Now - INTAKE?

[Striker's Stinger]

My intake was loose on the drivers side, literally one piece of it wasn’t event attached to rubber connector with the hose clamp. This happened likely when I installed my heat shield covers, had to loosen my intake for those covers a few weeks ago. I loosened the hose clamp and pushed the rubber connector more in and tightened it tightly.

I did a few 0-60 runs with no issue. On my last 0-60 run everything went smoothly until I accelerated to leave. My car has very little acceleration as soon as I hear the intakes. All I can hear is a very loud WOOSH noise from the drivers side intake now with no push. It happens as soon as I hit the accelerator. Did I crack something or is the rubber ripped now? My car will barely accelerate!

Feeling around the edges next to the hose clamp it feels like the rubber is ripped or feels weird in one place from re clamping and possibly tightening it too tight. I may just be finding issues that don’t exist but the rubber feels different in that area. Any advice would be appreciated. The car ran fine for 4 0-60 hard runs then gave out.

 

[Striker's Stinger]

Update:

so I did the fusion tape method around the rubber boot and gave it about 24 hours to cure. It worked only 20%. The car is able to drive now if I don’t mash the peddle. I purchased a new air filter with boot from Injen hoping if I exchange the entire filter it’ll fix the problem. I just don’t know where that heavy leak is coming from now that I’ve taped the entire boot, got some success, but still won’t pull at all.

 

[NS_Stinger]

It sounds like your car is in limp mode. I personally wouldnt use any kind of tape around an area that could be sucked into your intake which leads directly into your turbo, if that tape or part of your intake tubing got or gets sucked into the turbo it could destroy it. You have a ton of mods, so your issue could be related to a number of things including a boost leak if your aftermarket intercooler came uncoupled. Do you have anyway to detemine what kind of boost pressure you're getting?

 

[Striker's Stinger]

I can take off the bumper and look at the intercooler couplers again to see if I blew off my charge pipe, that’s a good idea. I’m at my mechanics shop currently having them check it out.

The car is definitely not in limp mode since when I hit the gas the rpm is either at 500 or 5500, either zero push or too much air with zero push, no real in between. I’ve been in limp mode a few times during my build and this isn’t that.

It all happened right after I readjusted the boot of my air filter into my intake. I ordered the air filter with boot from Injen but unfortunately it hasn’t even shipped yet and this is my daily driver too :/

I checked all other lines, they look fine, no leaks noted around the seals or in the rubber tubing.

My wife is grilling me saying I should’ve built a 92 Civic and not touched this car, I know she has a point but don’t kick a driver while he’s down!

 

[Striker's Stinger]

It sounds like your car is in limp mode. I personally wouldnt use any kind of tape around an area that could be sucked into your intake which leads directly into your turbo, if that tape or part of your intake tubing got or gets sucked into the turbo it could destroy it. You have a ton of mods, so your issue could be related to a number of things including a boost leak if your aftermarket intercooler came uncoupled. Do you have anyway to detemine what kind of boost pressure you're getting?

This is why I love this forum. I focused so much on the intake that I didn’t look at anything else.



Took off my bumper to inspect my charge pipes and boom. Blew the drivers side charge pipe right off. Getting a T-Bolt clamp for that area. The worm clamp was still attached as a circle but flew completely off!

Of note: the mechanic said “I’m not sure what’s going on, I would take it to the Kia dealership.” Lol

Thank you!!

 

[Plakchup]

Glad you got that figured out! I totally feel ya on the wife blaming haha. My wife did same when i was adjusting my exhaust tips and the darn clamp broke off from tightening it too hard. Luckily i had another exhaust clamp ready. She was like leave the car alone!!

I remember putting on my hks bov and wondering why it wasnt really building boost. The darn vacuum hose came loose so i used a tighter clamp and it's been flawless since then. Even got a bit tighter vacuum hose in case if i ever need to replace it. oh the joys of modding.

 

[NS_Stinger]

This is why I love this forum. I focused so much on the intake that I didn’t look at anything else.

View attachment 86929

Took off my bumper to inspect my charge pipes and boom. Blew the drivers side charge pipe right off. Getting a T-Bolt clamp for that area. The worm clamp was still attached as a circle but flew completely off!

Of note: the mechanic said “I’m not sure what’s going on, I would take it to the Kia dealership.” Lol

Thank you!!

Hey man so glad I could help! I know I've gotten my fair share of help from others on the forums in the past.

 

[Striker's Stinger]

Yea it completely solved the issue! The 3” T Bolt clamp is much stronger. Unfortunately I now drive like a grandma due to the recent PTSD. But I gave it a few pulls and checked my logs and everything seems normal again! I may be feeling a little more turbo lag than before but that may also be in my head since I’m not mashing it every second. May have to tighten up that T Bolt a bit more.

Just glad I can take my car to work tomorrow!

 

[See3Pee01971]

This is why I love this forum. I focused so much on the intake that I didn’t look at anything else.

View attachment 86929

Took off my bumper to inspect my charge pipes and boom. Blew the drivers side charge pipe right off. Getting a T-Bolt clamp for that area. The worm clamp was still attached as a circle but flew completely off!

Of note: the mechanic said “I’m not sure what’s going on, I would take it to the Kia dealership.” Lol

Thank you!!

I see these posts over and over. 90% of the time, hose has come lose at the FMIC. I had it happen to me once. Glad you got it sorted.

 

[Striker's Stinger]

I see these posts over and over. 90% of the time, hose has come lose at the FMIC. I had it happen to me once. Glad you got it sorted.

I did some more reading into it on this forum, and now I’m getting a set of BOV’s to reduce the risk of my charge pipe uncoupling again since I’m running a lot of constant boost (holds around 20-21psi) during my runs. Hopeful the BOV’s with the T-Bolt clamp will hold up!

 

[rtv900]

I did some more reading into it on this forum, and now I’m getting a set of BOV’s to reduce the risk of my charge pipe uncoupling again since I’m running a lot of constant boost (holds around 20-21psi) during my runs. Hopeful the BOV’s with the T-Bolt clamp will hold up!

the factory recirc valve has nothing to do with that, nor will a BOV help.
If you are seriously running over 20 psi you just about doubled stock boost, which is the root of the issue.
Regardless, good pipe fittings can hold a hell of a lot more than 20 psi so you just need to improve your set up.
You must have missed something while modding your stuff and made a mistake because I really doubt 20 psi busted a clamp.

 

[Striker's Stinger]

the factory recirc valve has nothing to do with that, nor will a BOV help.
If you are seriously running over 20 psi you just about doubled stock boost, which is the root of the issue.
Regardless, good pipe fittings can hold a hell of a lot more than 20 psi so you just need to improve your set up.
You must have missed something while modding your stuff and made a mistake because I really doubt 20 psi busted a clamp.

You may be right, but twice above stock boost would be around 28 psi, not 20. I got my TCU reprogrammed and that’s when my charge pipe blew off, by maintaining a CONSTANT 20lb boost through the entire run. My car has hit 23PSI on multiple runs and is just fine but I never maintained the boost curve before the TCU reprogramming. It would fall off to 15psi at top rpm ranges.

 

[rtv900]

You may be right, but twice above stock boost would be around 28 psi, not 20. I got my TCU reprogrammed and that’s when my charge pipe blew off, by maintaining a CONSTANT 20lb boost through the entire run. My car has hit 23PSI on multiple runs and is just fine but I never maintained the boost curve before the TCU reprogramming. It would fall off to 15psi at top rpm ranges.

maybe they changed it between model years but I've had two 2022's and unless the gauge is totally wrong it peaks steady at 10psi
both of them were identical in that regard
I mean it's a pretty crappy gauge display and tough to read accurately so maybe it's 11 or something but definitely not 14

 

[Striker's Stinger]

maybe they changed it between model years but I've had two 2022's and unless the gauge is totally wrong it peaks steady at 10psi
both of them were identical in that regard
I mean it's a pretty crappy gauge display and tough to read accurately so maybe it's 11 or something but definitely not 14

This is from a random 0-60 pull. You can see ECU-PSI (DME-BT) is 14.10PSI. I generated ~6 pounds over. Most of the boost curve is at or around 14 ECU-PSI.



Ive heard the gauges may not be as accurate, I never look at them, I just look at my logs.