3.3TT Broken Inlet manifold hose above cylinder 3

[nmorris]

I was replacing the awkward spark plug in cylinder 3 on my 3.3 with a universal socket and there is a small grey hose with a one way valve above this sparkplug on the intake manifold that I broke. I snapped the plastic bit off the intake manifold. I have no idea what the hose is for (does anyone know) and wondered if it would be a problem simply to block the hole up with a screw so there is no vacuum leakage when the engine is running causing a mixture issue. Has anyone been unlucky enough to have this issue, and what did you do ? Attached is the part itself - obviously since the bit that snapped is molded and part of the intake manifold itself so I don't really want to buy a new intake manifold if possible for a tiny bit that broke.

 

[oddball]

That hose brings vacuum from right behind the throttle body into a chamber. The valve is in the hose to make sure the chamber only has vacuum. That vacuum is then used to quickly actuate the BOVs when necessary. The solenoid hanging on the charge pipe that goes to the BOVs switches between that vacuum chamber and the intake pressure behind the throttle body.
So, not 100% necessary, but I would take the solenoid out of the loop and have the BOVs just use the one pressure reference that's still good. Cap the end of that hose by the throttle body. The separate tank can then be ignored.
Leaving as-is now could lead to slow BOV actuation, particularly at WOT, potentially turbo damage.
""normal"" turbo setups just use a pressure tap behind the throttle body to drive the BOVs, so that's normal. It's just that the Stinger ECU tune and turbo configuration probably took their extra vacuum trick into account, so not having that might cause issues in some cases.

Kia calls it a "Surge tank". Any normal human would call it an "upper intake manifold".

 

[nmorris]

Thanks for your knowledgably info oddball. I'm afraid I dont know what the term BOVs means or WOT. Here is a picture of it. You can see I have put a screw in the manifold end where it broke to stop the vacuum leaking and upsetting any measure air/fuel mixture and the gas tight integrity of the manifold. Are you suggesting if I also now block up the one way valve to the other part of the manifold, all should be fine ? Although I could go through the balls ache of removing the entire manifold to either replace it or make some sort of reliable DIY fix on the broken off part (which I suspect I could), I really don't want to unless it is absolutely necessary

 

[oddball]

Blow Off Valve, Wide Open Throttle.
That screw will leak plenty of air. The threads literally make a vent pathway.

You're messing with stuff you don't fully understand, so yes, you should replace the upper intake (aka surge tank).

 

[nmorris]

Yes I did a bit of research last night and can see the BOV is operated via a solenoid that can direct vacuum either before or after the throttle so clearly there is a chance the BOV won't operate with the throttle close. Thats not good so I have effected a fix today. Thanks for you input, appreciated.

 

[JoeBuck]

That hose brings vacuum from right behind the throttle body into a chamber. The valve is in the hose to make sure the chamber only has vacuum. That vacuum is then used to quickly actuate the BOVs when necessary. The solenoid hanging on the charge pipe that goes to the BOVs switches between that vacuum chamber and the intake pressure behind the throttle body.
So, not 100% necessary, but I would take the solenoid out of the loop and have the BOVs just use the one pressure reference that's still good. Cap the end of that hose by the throttle body. The separate tank can then be ignored.
Leaving as-is now could lead to slow BOV actuation, particularly at WOT, potentially turbo damage.
""normal"" turbo setups just use a pressure tap behind the throttle body to drive the BOVs, so that's normal. It's just that the Stinger ECU tune and turbo configuration probably took their extra vacuum trick into account, so not having that might cause issues in some cases.

Kia calls it a "Surge tank". Any normal human would call it an "upper intake manifold".

Vacuum Chamber? In front of the manifold?

 

[JoeBuck]

Thanks for your knowledgably info oddball. I'm afraid I dont know what the term BOVs means or WOT. Here is a picture of it. You can see I have put a screw in the manifold end where it broke to stop the vacuum leaking and upsetting any measure air/fuel mixture and the gas tight integrity of the manifold. Are you suggesting if I also now block up the one way valve to the other part of the manifold, all should be fine ? Although I could go through the balls ache of removing the entire manifold to either replace it or make some sort of reliable DIY fix on the broken off part (which I suspect I could), I really don't want to unless it is absolutely necessary

BOV is blow off valve. I think he meant THOT.

 

[oddball]

Vacuum Chamber? In front of the manifold?

Yup.

 

[2018GT2stingaa]

Blow Off Valve, Wide Open Throttle.
That screw will leak plenty of air. The threads literally make a vent pathway.

You're messing with stuff you don't fully understand, so yes, you should replace the upper intake (aka surge tank).

Hey oddball, the same thing happened to me while changing my wife’s spark plugs.

I attempted to JB weld it back. I’ll add another layer of job weld after this one sets, to prevent air leakage. How bad is this break actually?

 

[2018GT2stingaa]

Yes I did a bit of research last night and can see the BOV is operated via a solenoid that can direct vacuum either before or after the throttle so clearly there is a chance the BOV won't operate with the throttle close. Thats not good so I have effected a fix today. Thanks for you input, appreciated.

What was your fix?

 

[oddball]

Unless the break was perfectly placed, there's an extremely high chance the jb weld glob won't work. For me, the engine idled very rough, but overall it ran OK. I only drove it less than 1/4 of a mile - pulled out of the driveway, down the alley, then just looped back around because it was obvious something was wrong.
It ran rough because it was lean due to the extra air. The ECU would eventually, likely, correct the fuel once the O2 sensors were warm. The recirc valves won't work quite the way the ECU expects them to because the vacuum isn't there. If it was my only car and I was dependent on it running then I'd do the same - glob the shit out of it, let it warm up for a minute or so, and drive carefully - until I could pull the intake to fix it Gooder or replace it.