3.3TT BOV knowledge, any help appreciated

NYC Valentin

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To preface, the parts I have:
Jonny Tig cold air intake, Wagner intercooler, Ark sway bar, NGT 200 cell high flow cats primary downpipe, Ark secondary downpipe, Jun BL EVC catback exhaust, lozic ECU(I have two, one is 1.5 bar in sports mode, one is 1.7 bars in sport mode), and TCU tune.
I read on here something about 1) BOVs reducing surge, which I'm not insanely knowledgeable about the concept of. As I understand, that's 2) when the car jumps forward, then self limits/corrects, and lags back. Let me know if both of these statements are true, and if so which BOVs I should be looking into that can help mitigate that, which you guys prefer.
Will surely be coming back with more questions to answers, so thank you for anyone who can give me some knowledge!
 
Not so certain a BOV would cause that kind of thing....
In general, a BOV needs to do a few things:
1) hold the boost pressure
2) release enough air on demand so the turbo doesn't cavitate
3) seal back up quick enough to re-build pressure in the intake

Aftermarket BOVs are, generally, larger so they can flow more air, and adjustable in some manner.

So, if boost is leaking past the BOV, you need an aftermarket BOV. I think the stock stinger units can hold to at least 24psi, maybe higher.
If you get turbo chatter during shifts or when the BOV is activating then it's not moving fast enough. Chatter literally sounds like the tubro is trying to chew rocks. It's pretty obvious.
The last one is tougher to track. You'd need to log the ECU activity and see boost during shifts. If there's more lag than you want, then an aftermarket BOV might help.

From a performance perspective, a BOV is way down the list of priorities on this car. Most folks will install one for the looks - or let's be real here - for the noise with a vent to air (VTA) setup.
 
Tial 50mm bov with a mishimoto adapter pipe and a 6 lb spring
 
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Not so certain a BOV would cause that kind of thing....
In general, a BOV needs to do a few things:
1) hold the boost pressure
2) release enough air on demand so the turbo doesn't cavitate
3) seal back up quick enough to re-build pressure in the intake

Aftermarket BOVs are, generally, larger so they can flow more air, and adjustable in some manner.

So, if boost is leaking past the BOV, you need an aftermarket BOV. I think the stock stinger units can hold to at least 24psi, maybe higher.
If you get turbo chatter during shifts or when the BOV is activating then it's not moving fast enough. Chatter literally sounds like the tubro is trying to chew rocks. It's pretty obvious.
The last one is tougher to track. You'd need to log the ECU activity and see boost during shifts. If there's more lag than you want, then an aftermarket BOV might help.

From a performance perspective, a BOV is way down the list of priorities on this car. Most folks will install one for the looks - or let's be real here - for the noise with a vent to air (VTA) setup.
Sorry to steal the spot light on this post but. From what you said about the turbo chatter(sounds like turbo chewing rocks) that noise popped up for me after I installed my primary+midpipe combo from ULTIMATE PERFORMANCE. So correct me if I am wrong but you’re saying aftermarket BOVs will fix that? Or is there a cheaper solution?
 
Sorry to steal the spot light on this post but. From what you said about the turbo chatter(sounds like turbo chewing rocks) that noise popped up for me after I installed my primary+midpipe combo from ULTIMATE PERFORMANCE. So correct me if I am wrong but you’re saying aftermarket BOVs will fix that? Or is there a cheaper solution?
maaaaaaybe? Have you done the other supporting mods, like an appropriate ECU tune, or a JB4 with the EWG wires and appropriate config?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Not so certain a BOV would cause that kind of thing....
In general, a BOV needs to do a few things:
1) hold the boost pressure
2) release enough air on demand so the turbo doesn't cavitate
3) seal back up quick enough to re-build pressure in the intake

Aftermarket BOVs are, generally, larger so they can flow more air, and adjustable in some manner.

So, if boost is leaking past the BOV, you need an aftermarket BOV. I think the stock stinger units can hold to at least 24psi, maybe higher.
If you get turbo chatter during shifts or when the BOV is activating then it's not moving fast enough. Chatter literally sounds like the tubro is trying to chew rocks. It's pretty obvious.
The last one is tougher to track. You'd need to log the ECU activity and see boost during shifts. If there's more lag than you want, then an aftermarket BOV might help.

From a performance perspective, a BOV is way down the list of priorities on this car. Most folks will install one for the looks - or let's be real here - for the noise with a vent to air (VTA) setup.
Sorry for getting back to you late! This is a lot of helpful information! What kind of mods should I be getting prior to the BOV? I don't know what's further up the list. I am only aiming to do performance mods, no aesthetic, past my window tints, and black vinyl wrapped roof. I thought I pretty much covered everything that's sure to boost performance without endangering the car too much(E.G meth kit, running E85 fuel, or equipping bigger turbos).
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Is there a reason you're behind tial? I was looking at the HKS bov on khartunerz
Its 1 unit vs 2 so you could technically save 50 percent but i will admit the hks sound is very unique

As well as scalability to run more boost its very easy to switch springs on on a tial
 
Tial 50mm bov with a mishimoto adapter pipe and a 6 lb spring
I just ordered the Tial Q 50mm for my 3.3
I only got the -2 spring

Should I get a different one? -6?
Wasn’t sure, I’m not tuned. I have the Mishimoto FMIC with the 2 to 1 adapter on the way. I am currently running the dual HKS setup.

Thanks in advance!
 
I just ordered the Tial Q 50mm for my 3.3
I only got the -2 spring

Should I get a different one? -6?
Wasn’t sure, I’m not tuned. I have the Mishimoto FMIC with the 2 to 1 adapter on the way. I am currently running the dual HKS setup.

Thanks in advance!
The 6 pound spring is what was recomended to me. You may have boost leak out while flooring it with to soft of a spring. But at the same time i could easily be wrong lmao
 
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