3.3TT BMS Tial BOV Adapter for Stinger

Terry@BMS

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We have the BOV adapters in stock finally: BOV adapter for KIA Stinger GT 3.3L - BurgerTuning.com

Rather than waiting until we get the valves with the right springs we decided to just offer the adapter ala-cart. There are authentic valves on amazon and ebay with the spring for $260 shipped. And fake Tial valves for a fraction of that for those who prefer that route.

BOV-Adapter-Kia-BMS.jpg


 
What are the benefits of running a single BOV like this compared to a dual set up?

Also, it's been asked here before but have you done or seen any test that show the BOVs do anything beneficial for our cars and on the flip side can they potentially be more harmful than good?

Nice color on the adapter plates.
 
Hold boost better, less leakage at stock and especially raised boost levels, so boost builds faster, turbos don't have to work as hard to make a given boost pressure. This is a MAP car so it ca run recirc or VTA with no issues. Only way you can negatively affect the car is if you use a BOV with a spring that's too stiff or too soft and either won't open when needed or can't stay closed when needed. Any company that screws up that badly would quickly fix it, though.
 
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What are the benefits of running a single BOV like this compared to a dual set up?

Also, it's been asked here before but have you done or seen any test that show the BOVs do anything beneficial for our cars and on the flip side can they potentially be more harmful than good?

Nice color on the adapter plates.

Reiterating what Oryan said, with the way the Kia is configured, as long as the BOV is able to hold boost without leaking, I don't think there is necessarily a reason to have two. No harm/gain from changing the two plastic BPVs to a single quality BOV, other than sound and the peace of mind that you aren't leaking boost.

All the air in the stock system is vented back into the intake before any airflow sensors, so the ECU will re-calibrate as necessary if you changed to a VTA valve.
 
The first part of his question was about the difference or benefits of a single BOV vs a dual BOV setup.

I’m also interested in Terry’s response to that question as IMO the only benefit is that it’s cheaper to use one valve rather than two but I’m not sure if there is a drawback from only having one for the two turbos.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Been waiting for this...thank you Terry. Will you offer a polished option for those of us that have IC and IC polished pipes? :rolleyes:
 
Will you be offering the BOV and correct spring with the adapter as well at some point in the future?
 
Please note that the vacuum line going to the 2 stock diverter valves is just a T off one line. The source is the same for both so there should be no functional difference between 1 versus 2 aside from the fact that it is one less part to fail(which is know to occur with factory diverter valves under high boost)
 
Please note that the vacuum line going to the 2 stock diverter valves is just a T off one line. The source is the same for both so there should be no functional difference between 1 versus 2 aside from the fact that it is one less part to fail(which is know to occur with factory diverter valves under high boost)

You’re right about the vacuum line but each valve has its own inlet and outlet so having a single valve means that all of the air from both inlets is pushed through one valve rather than two. Hence the questions about the consequence, if any, this would have.
 
You’re right about the vacuum line but each valve has its own inlet and outlet so having a single valve means that all of the air from both inlets is pushed through one valve rather than two. Hence the questions about the consequence, if any, this would have.

Most aftermarket twin turbo builds I am familiar with(think LS1 etc) go with one larger BOV like the 50mm Tial unless the configuration demands two due to physical constraints.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Tial 50mm w/ 6psi spring suggested! Also also include the block off caps.
 
I received my adapter and TiAl and got them installed last night, just a couple questions.

The caps for the intake ports are thinner than the stock hose, so the factory clamps do not work with the caps. I know this is the intake side so it won't see much pressure, but do you use a different clamp or been running it without one with no problem?

The barb on the top of the TiAl is larger than the signal hose. Did you replace the hose with a transition hose or is there a smaller barb for the TiAl?

When I first started up the car, it was idle searching from 1,000 rpm to 1,400 rpm for about 2 minutes, then settled down. Is this expected?

thanks
 
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What you experienced with the car searching for its idle is normal. I would definitely use zip ties/clamps on the factory hoses and also buy some larger diameter hose to accommodate for the top vent.
 
Thanks. I have some larger tubing I can try. That fitting is very small. Were you able to get it tightened enough?
 
Just installed mine over the weekend, and yes the tial vacuum signal fitting is larger than the factory one. I ended up using an adapter, but I'm not too comfortable with it. I think Terry was able to use a single hose that fitted both ends.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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