Best wax to "duplicate" clear coat?

MerlintheMad

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Hi all,

I am not a car buff (pun intended). So in the past I have never bothered to wax my cars: just keep them clean and out of the baking sun whenever possible, etc.

But I have this tiny issue going on. I have used some touch up paint on a tiny area that is scratched; I knocked the paint down with wet 2000 grit sandpaper. In doing so I hazed the clear coat in that spot. I can shine it up with Meguiar's buffing compound, but after a while the hazy patch comes back. I looked into putting clear coat back on that spot. But the Directions sound dubious to me: mask off the surrounding area, put on two or three light coats with at least twenty minutes drying time between coats; followed by one "heavier" coat. Finally, buff/blend the new clear coat in with the surrounding areas. Hmm! Sounds way too subjective to me. I do not get along well with spray-anything.

So I'm wondering which product in wax or rub-on type applications is the longest lasting (best) one to keep the polished hazy area from returning?
 
So, new purchasers are supposed to be taking paint defect advice from you? Take the car to a professional detailer and have them correct it. Im guessing this can still be fixed. Dont hit it with a rattle can clearcoat, dont pass go, dont collect your $200. Dont touch it, just bring it to a detailer.
 
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When you use a compound, you are effectively abrading the surface, slowly wearing down past any major imperfections (scratches).. so when you're done, you have a rough surface that, as you say, looks hazy.

If you can throw water on it and it looks perfect, then you can probably polish that rough surface down slowly, using finer and finer material down to around 7000 or more. When you're done, that's it.

If you've already removed the clearcoat in that area, then you have no choice but to apply more. As stated, you might want to go to a scratch and dent place to get it taken care of.

If you want to edumacate yourself before proceeding:
 
If you want to do it yourself, I suggest the following:

Acquire a DA Polisher. It is a great tool to have around for polishing, waxing, and perfecting imperfect paint. Learn how to use it, many videos available.

Purchase these products:

KPS#615 Eraser Big Bite. Use this first

KPS#654 Eraser Glacier Glaze. Follow up with this product.

Finally, apply the wax of your choice. Your paint will look as good as brand new.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
So, new purchasers are supposed to be taking paint defect advice from you? Take the car to a professional detailer and have them correct it. Im guessing this can still be fixed. Dont hit it with a rattle can clearcoat, dont pass go, dont collect your $200. Dont touch it, just bring it to a detailer.
I haven't ruined it yet! It actually looks pretty good. I just want the clear coat to be protected once I buff it out one more time.

No way am I going to hit it with a rattle can.
 
If you've already removed the clearcoat in that area, then you have no choice but to apply more.
Thanks for the video. I haven't gone through the clear coat. I have haze. Meguiar's takes it out. Now I need polish. There are too many of them! Does that mean it doesn't really matter which one I choose? All pretty much the same?
 
If you want to do it yourself, I suggest the following:

Acquire a DA Polisher. It is a great tool to have around for polishing, waxing, and perfecting imperfect paint. Learn how to use it, many videos available.

Purchase these products:

KPS#615 Eraser Big Bite. Use this first

KPS#654 Eraser Glacier Glaze. Follow up with this product.

Finally, apply the wax of your choice. Your paint will look as good as brand new.
It is a very small job. And I don't have other scratches, yet, in over four months. (No more kids around, heh! :P) How, I wonder does this "Eraser" stuff compare to Meguiar's? It seems that the Eraser comes in quantities, gallon size. I need small bottles of product.

I'm not likely to invest in a polisher. Hand rubbing is what I am after, as long as any jobs I have to do are small ones. If I get really scratched, I'm going to take @forzanerazzurri's advice for sure. I won't be using buffing tools, or trying to eradicate anything larger than a business card.
 
i scratched my paint to and filled it with the paint pen but now it has excess paint build up. I'm to scared to do it myself. gonna take it somewhere to get it fix proper. i would love to learn how to do it but i dunno if its worth it.
 
It is a very small job. And I don't have other scratches, yet, in over four months. (No more kids around, heh! :p) How, I wonder does this "Eraser" stuff compare to Meguiar's? It seems that the Eraser comes in quantities, gallon size. I need small bottles of product.

I'm not likely to invest in a polisher. Hand rubbing is what I am after, as long as any jobs I have to do are small ones. If I get really scratched, I'm going to take @forzanerazzurri's advice for sure. I won't be using buffing tools, or trying to eradicate anything larger than a business card.

They are similar to Meg's products. I know them better because the company is in Wichita - where we lived for a while.

Anyway, good luck. I've had my DA polisher for around ten years. I love it for waxing, buffing, polishing, etc... No easier way to keep you ride looking immaculate.

Anyway, good luck.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
There's always some difference and every one says they are better than the next for some reason or another...

Can't help there, honestly. Many better car wash places have scratch and ding repair. Yelp is also a great way to weed out the bad from the good..
 
Thanks for the responses so far. I just didn't want to skip over an "obvious" product that "everyone else" knew about. :P I guess I'll take this spray clear coat back and exchange it for Turtle or somesuch "bestest and hardest wax on Earth" product, my choice. Heh!
 
IMG_20180809_092943.webp
Three coats of Meguiars Cleaning Wax. I figured, might as well go with the same brand as the buffing compound I've been using. The damaged area is on the acute edge above the tail light; and just c. an inch and a half forward of that is where the scratches are. But they are pretty nigh invisible now. You would almost have to know they were there to even see them. I am content.
 
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