Anyone know how the Kia Stinger ranks in Autocross?

[anhanhymous]

No Stingers ever show up to autocross (Bay Area), so it’s been difficult to gauge my performance. Wondering which cars the Stinger would have the closest times to or which ones in FS it should beat.

http://ccsportscarclub.org/files/2021/03/2021-Car-Manufacture-Class-list.pdf

 

[JSolo]

 

[Maljey]

EDIT:What I posted below may not be for autocross, but track-based time trials instead? Sorry for any confusion. Leaving it up in case anyone still wants time trial info.

According to this link:

Main - CLASSMYCAR

timetrials.scca.com

The Stinger falls into the Sport 3 (S3) class for anyone wondering. The link in the OP isn't working for me either.

Here is a screen shot of the full list from the site:

 

[stoopid]

Topic comes up from time to time, so definitely try doing a search for autocross on this forum.

 

[Volfy]

Tough to be competitive with Stinger in AutoX. In stock Street, 3.3T runs in FStreet. Our local SCCA region events here always have a whole gaggle of SS 1LE's running. Against them, Stinger has no chance.

We currently run our GT-Line in Street Touring Hatch, Against VW GTIs that weight 500+lbs lighter and WRXs with AWD. Basically hopelessly outclassed.

So, if you want to compete, pick a different roller.

We do AutoX and track days to practice HPDE, not to compete. For that, Stinger/G70 have been great for honing skills.

Let me know if there are specifics you want to know.


For Time Trials, Stingers are Gran Turismo cars, not factory track weapons, so will need some track prep to survive full-on 20min sessions. Track Sprint would be better for starters, as you only do 1 lap at a time.

 

[anhanhymous]

Tough to be competitive with Stinger in AutoX. In stock Street, 3.3T runs in FStreet. Our local SCCA region events here always have a whole gaggle of SS 1LE's running. Against them, Stinger has no chance.

We currently run our GT-Line in Street Touring Hatch, Against VW GTIs that weight 500+lbs lighter and WRXs with AWD. Basically hopelessly outclassed.

So, if you want to compete, pick a different roller.

We do AutoX and track days to practice HPDE, not to compete. For that, Stinger/G70 have been great for honing skills.

Let me know if there are specifics you want to know.
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For Time Trials, Stingers are Gran Turismo cars, not factory track weapons, so will need some track prep to survive full-on 20min sessions. Track Sprint would be better for starters, as you only do 1 lap at a time.

Yeah I know we’d always be outclassed in autocross but trying to figure out how much these cars should be beating me by. Currently running about 8% slower than the SS 1LE. I figure a Charger might be a close comparator to the stinger but those never show up either.

 

[Volfy]

Yeah I know we’d always be outclassed in autocross but trying to figure out how much these cars should be beating me by. Currently running about 8% slower than the SS 1LE. I figure a Charger might be a close comparator to the stinger but those never show up either.

Those Dodges are old fashion American Muscle. Good for straight line, not so good for highly technicals like AutoX. We see a good them here at Solo events but they aren't too competitive either.

6th Gen Camaro OTOH is actually a genuine sports car. SS with the beefy NA V8 weighs about the same as a 4cyl Stinger! The 1LE package is essentially full-on factory track prep. Thing handles almost as good as a Porsche. A Stinger would need to have the chassis dialed in perfectly to even come anywhere near an SS 1LE.

 

[DangerWanger]

Tough to be competitive with Stinger in AutoX. In stock Street, 3.3T runs in FStreet. Our local SCCA region events here always have a whole gaggle of SS 1LE's running. Against them, Stinger has no chance.

We currently run our GT-Line in Street Touring Hatch, Against VW GTIs that weight 500+lbs lighter and WRXs with AWD. Basically hopelessly outclassed.

So, if you want to compete, pick a different roller.

We do AutoX and track days to practice HPDE, not to compete. For that, Stinger/G70 have been great for honing skills.

Let me know if there are specifics you want to know.

Hey there. After searching I didn't really find any direct answers to my question, but I'm curious to know your (and anyone's) thoughts. I'm going back and forth between the Eibach Anti Roll and Pro Plus kits. Started autocrossing again last year after about 12 years away from it. Would you say that the springs add much to the sway bars in terms of increasing handling performance when autocrossing? I've seen many people say how much the sway bars help, but I haven't found anyone mentioning their gains after adding the springs after the bars.

This is my DD, and I'm in the Chicago area so snow/potholes/speed bumps are a concern if it was lowered. I've got a completely stock AWD GT2, and I'm not sure if the performance benefits outweigh the concerns. Not looking at all to compete and will stay in FS class for at least the near future. Just about having fun and obviously better performance = more fun. If the springs are a similar handling increase to the bars alone, I could overlook the downsides. Thanks!

 

[Volfy]

Hey there. After searching I didn't really find any direct answers to my question, but I'm curious to know your (and anyone's) thoughts. I'm going back and forth between the Eibach Anti Roll and Pro Plus kits. Started autocrossing again last year after about 12 years away from it. Would you say that the springs add much to the sway bars in terms of increasing handling performance when autocrossing? I've seen many people say how much the sway bars help, but I haven't found anyone mentioning their gains after adding the springs after the bars.

If I am forced to choose between Eibach springs and anti-roll bars, I would do the springs first. Reason is simple... With Eibach's Pro-Kit springs, both the CG lowering and 10-15% stiffer spring all around will reduce both dive/squat (in pitch axis) and lateral lean angle (in the roll axis). Anti-roll bars only improves the latter.

That said, aftermarket anti-roll bars do typically allow for roll stiffness adjustment front vs. rear, so if the car tends of understeer excessively, that might potentially help more. Stinger isn't too bad in that regard... provided that you trail brake into the corner to keep weight over the front tires for more grip on corner entry. If you don't do that, no amount of anti-roll bar adjustment is gonna help you.

This is my DD, and I'm in the Chicago area so snow/potholes/speed bumps are a concern if it was lowered. I've got a completely stock AWD GT2, and I'm not sure if the performance benefits outweigh the concerns. Not looking at all to compete and will stay in FS class for at least the near future. Just about having fun and obviously better performance = more fun. If the springs are a similar handling increase to the bars alone, I could overlook the downsides. Thanks!

Practically, if you're staying in FS class, lowering springs are not allowed anyway. Even anti-roll bar you are ONLY allowed one non-stock (front or rear). So that makes your question kinda moot.

If I were you... if you're serious about chasing cones regularly, I would invest in a set of lightweight wheels and 200 tread wear dedicated autoX tires. That mod is perfectly legal for Stock class and will improve your lap time far more than Eibach springs and anti-roll bars, combined. The stock rims are boat anchors. My lightest AutoX set are Enkei RPF1 18x8.5 weighing 18.2 lbs per wheel.

OTOH, if you just want to have a little weekend fun here and there occasionally, just go with what you've got. Unless you are a seasoned Pro Solo jockey, the slowest part of the whole car is the lump of noodles inside your helmet. Even stock, the Stinger is faster than you are.

 

[DangerWanger]

If I am forced to choose between Eibach springs and anti-roll bars, I would do the springs first. Reason is simple... With Eibach's Pro-Kit springs, both the CG lowering and 10-15% stiffer spring all around will reduce both dive/squat (in pitch axis) and lateral lean angle (in the roll axis). Anti-roll bars only improves the latter.

That said, aftermarket anti-roll bars do typically allow for roll stiffness adjustment front vs. rear, so if the car tends of understeer excessively, that might potentially help more. Stinger isn't too bad in that regard... provided that you trail brake into the corner to keep weight over the front tires for more grip on corner entry. If you don't do that, no amount of anti-roll bar adjustment is gonna help you.

Practically, if you're staying in FS class, lowering springs are not allowed anyway. Even anti-roll bar you are ONLY allowed one non-stock (front or rear). So that makes your question kinda moot.

If I were you... if you're serious about chasing cones regularly, I would invest in a set of lightweight wheels and 200 tread wear dedicated autoX tires. That mod is perfectly legal for Stock class and will improve your lap time far more than Eibach springs and anti-roll bars, combined. The stock rims are boat anchors. My lightest AutoX set are Enkei RPF1 18x8.5 weighing 18.2 lbs per wheel.

OTOH, if you just want to have a little weekend fun here and there occasionally, just go with what you've got. Unless you are a seasoned Pro Solo jockey, the slowest part of the whole car is the lump of noodles inside your helmet. Even stock, the Stinger is faster than you are.

Thank you very much for the detailed reply and suggestions. It's very much appreciated. Thanks also for the clarification on the FS rules and the sway bars. I overlooked that. I agree that my own driving skills are probably going to make the most improvements at this point. I also might consider moving into STH/STU, and then it wouldn't matter about those modifications. Although it seems I may not qualify for STH because of the GT2's rear tire width. But times-wise in the 2 races this year I seem to be a bit more competitive (even stock) in either of those classes vs. FS.

I don't even remember seeing the STH class years ago when I raced my Eclipse GSX. I was in STX, and all of the WRX/STIs were in STX/STU.

 

[Volfy]

Thank you very much for the detailed reply and suggestions. It's very much appreciated. Thanks also for the clarification on the FS rules and the sway bars. I overlooked that. I agree that my own driving skills are probably going to make the most improvements at this point. I also might consider moving into STH/STU, and then it wouldn't matter about those modifications. Although it seems I may not qualify for STH because of the GT2's rear tire width. But times-wise in the 2 races this year I seem to be a bit more competitive (even stock) in either of those classes vs. FS.

I don't even remember seeing the STH class years ago when I raced my Eclipse GSX. I was in STX, and all of the WRX/STIs were in STX/STU.

My GT-Line falls in STH because of the catch all rule:

Sedans & Coupes NOC (nonsports-car-based; 4-seat minimum; less than 2.5L (2500cc) forced-induction)

The local SSCA chief questioned me if I should be in STU. I pointed to the above catch-all and the fact that my engine displaces exact 2497cc.

3.3T Stinger is specifically called out under STU. Even if it isn't, the catch-all rule for STU is fairly clear:

Sedans & Coupes NOC (nonsports-car-based; 4-seat min.; over 5.1L normally aspirated or 2.5L to 3.1L forced induction)

Realistically though, Stingers are not competitive in either case, as I mentioned above. We got into AutoX a couple of years ago, because I'd wanted to introduce my oldest to HPDE. We started out running in Street class - as anyone starting out should - to establish a performance baseline for this chassis. Then we started doing suspension mods to tune the car for track duty, first lowering springs, then later coilovers. Our focus was not on being competitive, although we do try our best every step of the way. I wanted to show my son the effects of suspension tuning and how each mod impacts track handling and overall performance. For us, G70/stinger have been great teaching tool.

For your 3.3T, if you're lucky, your local chapter is small and doesn't have a whole gaggle of SS 1LE's running in FS. Otherwise... forgettaboutit! Those are factory V8 track machines that weigh the same as the 2.0T Stinger.

You could move up to STU and start modding up, but then you'd be fighting against Civic Type R, STI, and Golf R, which are 500 lbs lighter, short wheelbase, and have aftermarket support the likes of which we Stinger owners won't see in our wettest dreams. Even Hyundai's own N cars (Elantra and Veloster) will eat you for lunch.

Not trying to discourage you, but do try to keep it all in perspective. I constantly remind my oldest that this whole affair should be about the DRIVER, not the CAR.

 

[Thomby]

3.3T Stinger is specifically called out under STU. Even if it isn't, the catch-all rule for STU is fairly clear:

Sedans & Coupes NOC (nonsports-car-based; 4-seat min.; over 5.1L normally aspirated or 2.5L to 3.1L forced induction)

Do you mean "called out" as allowed, or excluded? Because if it's the former, I'm missing something...

 

[Volfy]

Do you mean "called out" as allowed, or excluded? Because if it's the former, I'm missing something...

I meant: it was specifically named on the list of cars under STU.

I think the confusion might be caused by the "catch-all" clauses for STU/STX being somewhat unlcear. STU calls for over 5.1L normally aspirated or 2.5L to 3.1L forced induction), but some cars on the list are larger than 3.1L turbos.

STX is actually the next level down (3.1L to 5.1L normally aspirated), although it doesn't mention the displacement range for forced induction.

You can read the latest rulebook here: https://cdn.connectsites.net/user_files/scca/downloads/000/072/794/2024 Solo Rulebook August adjusted.pdf

 

[Thomby]

I think the confusion might be caused by the "catch-all" clauses for STU/STX being somewhat unlcear. STU calls for over 5.1L normally aspirated or 2.5L to 3.1L forced induction), but some cars on the list are larger than 3.1L turbos.

That's what was throwing me...I guess they have to set the line somewhere, but then end up with cars just over or under a cutoff that really don't belong there, and move them accordingly.