All check engine lights have come on. Help would be appreciated

[mikeydubs23]

I have a 2022 GT-Line with the 2.5L. It's been running great for 2 years. Today I started it remotely with no problem. Walked out to the car and put a few things in the passenger seat before walking to the mailbox. The car turned off and I assumed it was that thing where I leaned in with the key and out so it's supposed to turn off when I pull the key out of the cabin. When I got back in and started it, it started but every CEL light came on and the LCD display starting telling me to check all of the systems ultimately ending on the last which was the Turn FUSE SWITCH On. I checked that hoping that maybe that tripped or something, but it was on. I even disconnected the battery, but the issue returns. The car runs, but the speedometer, tachometer, temp gauge are all disabled (or stuck on 0); it doesn't feel like power steering is working or not well plus none of the other items like lane assist, backup assist work. I did hook up code reader and it came up with two different C1616 codes, plus a 3rd that I don't recall. Any ideas?

 

[mikeydubs23]

As near as I can tell, this seems related to heat or direct sunlight. It went away, but it's come back frequently, often times in direct sunlight or heat so I'm wondering if heat is causing a short somewhere.

 

[mikeydubs23]

Here's a shot of what the dash looks like. It definitely seems to be a computer communication issue and when it happens it disables many features.

 

[Ohiocruiser]

Are you still under warranty? Take it to dealer!

 

[Snowwhite]

if they went to the trouble of making a little diagram for that fuse switch on the cluster, I'd take a peek at the fuse panel, and dig out the manual....

 

[mikeydubs23]

if they went to the trouble of making a little diagram for that fuse switch on the cluster, I'd take a peek at the fuse panel, and dig out the manual....

What are you suggesting? I tried resetting that switch. It was on, but I flipped off and on in case it was a faulty trip, but I believe that comes up simply because it's one of the many elements after the wiring fault. It runs through the whole list and ends on that one. I'll ultimately take it to the dealer , but my local dealer is terrible. I was hoping someone may have encountered this and knows what it might be.

 

[Snowwhite]

sorry I missed that part where you had reset the switch already. the only other thing I read while I was searching for that fuse switch is your battery might be giving up the ghost, but on a '22 that's not that likely. (trunk mounted batteries last much longer than batteries under the hood.) This sounds like a visit to the dealer is going to be necessary.

 

[GT Elite]

It could be the battery. I have a 2022 GT Elite and the original battery lasted less than a year.

 

[Snowwhite]

It could be the battery. I have a 2022 GT Elite and the original battery lasted less than a year.

Wow. I’m on year 5 of my factory battery, and I know typing that will mean I will have to buy one in the next two weeks…

 

[Snicklefritz]

Wow. I’m on year 5 of my factory battery, and I know typing that will mean I will have to buy one in the next two weeks…

Ah, then I won't type that. These batteries can last 10 years plus, if all conditions are met, I presume.

 

[G-168312]

Ultimately I'll have to take it to the dealership, but it definitely appears to be heat related. Today was an overcast and rainy day so no problems. When it's hot or sunny, it seems I can count on there being a problem. I'm not sure if the issue is in the rear view mirror sensor array or under the hood. It is a black car so it does get awfully hot in the sun. The heat seems to be exacerbating a short somewhere. I'm just afraid the dealer is going to be useless or worse than that in that they're only going to cost me time.

 

[mikeydubs23]

Ultimately, I'll have to get it to the dealership, but I have an update. There's definitely a correlation between heat/sunlight and the problem. Yesterday was overcast and rainy so no problems. When it's hot and sunny, the car is almost guaranteed to have problems since this started two weeks ago. It's black so it heats up quickly in the sun. If it's cool (or the car was garage kept like on vacation) there are no problems. If it's kept in the sun or brought into the sun it may have issues. I'm thinking there may be a short in the rear-view mirror sensor array. I wish this was a known issue so I could just take it to the dealer and they could fix it, but I have a feeling this could turn into a wild goose chase.

 

[Snowwhite]

tape a piece of white cardboard over the sensor array (so it doesn't get direct sunlight) and leave it out in the sun to see if the problem persists

 

[mikeydubs23]

I never did get to the dealer last summer and as fall came the problem went away as the harsh sunlight and heat decreased. It's back for the first time now that we're in the middle of summer. Keeping it in a garage is the only sure-fire way that the issue doesn't happen, but I don't have a garage. Covering the array last year didn't seem to make a difference. I did take the array cover off today since I've installed a USB rear-view mirror splitter for a dash cam and now I know how easy it is. The front-facing camera or what ever the silver box is was really hot to the touch. Has no one else seen this issue?

 

[Snowwhite]

I would think that sensor can take the heat. I wonder if a wiring harness somewhere (i'd check the fuse blocks) isn't fully seated, and with the heat, it expands just enough to not contact. Sounds like it's definitely in the passenger compartment- the underhood fuse panel gets plenty of heat while running, so it's not that. I'd check that the harness leading to the fuse panel in the driver's footwell is firmly seated. If you're brave enough, pop off the glove box and the cover underneath and check the 3 connectors to the body module as well.

Also - did the ABS multi-fuse recall apply to your car? I think they fixed that for 2022 but not sure.

 

[mikeydubs23]

That makes sense, the fuse panels in the cabin. Covering various arrays didn't seem to change things. It could very well be the overall temperature in the cabin. I'm unfamiliar with connections behind the glove box, but the panel on the driver's side with the master on-off switch seems easily accessible and since it's essentially all of the systems failing that could easily be the culprit especially given the last message is always flip the switch from off to on even though it's always set to on. I never noticed how many individual fuses there were there, but I'm guessing it's not a single seated fuse, but rather a whole panel since everything goes haywire. Although, here's an interesting fact, when the systems eventually reset, it seems they come back in chunks, not just all at once, but that could be based on timing or conditions for reset like the system know you must drive X miles before this warning can be cleared or conditions like that. I'd like to start by seeing if I can re-seat that whole panel, but not sure how it is seated/connected at this point. Thanks for the idea about wiring @Snowwhite!

 

[Snowwhite]

That makes sense, the fuse panels in the cabin. Covering various arrays didn't seem to change things. It could very well be the overall temperature in the cabin. I'm unfamiliar with connections behind the glove box, but the panel on the driver's side with the master on-off switch seems easily accessible and since it's essentially all of the systems failing that could easily be the culprit especially given the last message is always flip the switch from off to on even though it's always set to on. I never noticed how many individual fuses there were there, but I'm guessing it's not a single seated fuse, but rather a whole panel since everything goes haywire. Although, here's an interesting fact, when the systems eventually reset, it seems they come back in chunks, not just all at once, but that could be based on timing or conditions for reset like the system know you must drive X miles before this warning can be cleared or conditions like that. I'd like to start by seeing if I can re-seat that whole panel, but not sure how it is seated/connected at this point. Thanks for the idea about wiring @Snowwhite!

i'd give all of these a slight push to make sure they're in, but my suspicion is it's the one circled in red. It also looks like the on/off switch is removable; i'd give that a gentle push too.

 

[mikeydubs23]

Thanks! I did pull and reseat that circled wire to no avail. I know any individual wire in that bundled, plastic clip could also be individually causing the fault so I'll have to inspect closer to see if one of them could be the one that fails contact when hot. I do know the car's to push-to-start is disabled when you pull that bundled wire so that was interesting. I'll work on touching, pushing each individual component. After the problem I happened I did make an effort to cover windows and after a day or so of reduced cabin temperature, the issue finally went away for now. The last issue to go completely away was the rear cross traffic warning, lane departure, or blind spot alert system. A cheap investment for the interim might be a simple car cover to reduce sun exposure. This is almost a year exactly since this first happened which makes sense given sun exposure would be roughly the same. Getting to the dealer is just such a hassle and the last thing I want to do is give them an issue that is hard to recreate.

 

[Snowwhite]

you should also check the connectors on the body control unit (or whatever it's called.) remove the plastic cover under the glove box and look for a green, blue, and red set of connectors plugged into one box. check all three.