2023 2.5t coil springs

[Jharr]

Has anybody here had experience with changing coil springs on the 2023 gt-line? Trying to put lowering springs on but can’t find any tutorial videos.

 

[Snowwhite]

you can follow the same instructions as the 3.3, there's several threads on here about that. I did mine by myself using a jack and jack stands. it's an easy job. search my old posts for spring if you want to try to find my post with the procedure I followed that someone else posted.

 

[Jharr]

you can follow the same instructions as the 3.3, there's several threads on here about that. I did mine by myself using a jack and jack stands. it's an easy job. search my old posts for spring if you want to try to find my post with the procedure I followed that someone else posted.

Okay thanks

 

[socalvn]

It's pretty simple if you follow procedure, my biggest tip is to have the correct tool to split the spindle and pull the strut out it's a 1/8 inch I used a Allen wrench flattened on one side didn't want to pay for one

 

[socalvn]

Kia Stinger - Front Strut Assembly - Front Suspension System

 

[Jharr]

@socalvn did you cut the bumpstop?

 

[socalvn]

@socalvn did you cut the bumpstop?

Yes about a 1inch off

 

[Volfy]

For the front suspension, I left the hub carrier attached to the lower control arms. Instead, I loosened the control arm bushing bolt/nuts on the inner end. That allows the hub carrier to drop low enough for top of the strut to clear the fender.

Then, after the strut or coilover is re-installed, the suspension is lowered back down to static ride height. That's when the lower control bushing bolts are re-tightened. Doing it this way allows the control arm bushings to be re-clocked relative to the new (lowered) ride height, such that they are neutral at the new static ride height.

If you're only lowering the ride height a small amount, you might get away with not re-clocking the control arm bushings. The greater the lowering amount, the more those bushings will be torqued when sitting static, the more likely the elastomer will be twisted beyond their rated range, the sooner they will wear out and fail.

For my own cars, I'd rather not taking any chances, regardless of the lowering amount. Practically speaking, I find loosening the bushing bolts less PITN than busting out the spindles anyway. So it's a win-win, in my book.

 

[Jharr]

For the front suspension, I left the hub carrier attached to the lower control arms. Instead, I loosened the control arm bushing bolt/nuts on the inner end. That allows the hub carrier to drop low enough for top of the strut to clear the fender.

Then, after the strut or coilover is re-installed, the suspension is lowered back down to static ride height. That's when the lower control bushing bolts are re-tightened. Doing it this way allows the control arm bushings to be re-clocked relative to the new (lowered) ride height, such that they are neutral at the new static ride height.

If you're only lowering the ride height a small amount, you might get away with not re-clocking the control arm bushings. The greater the lowering amount, the more those bushings will be torqued when sitting static, the more likely the elastomer will be twisted beyond their rated range, the sooner they will wear out and fail.

For my own cars, I'd rather not taking any chances, regardless of the lowering amount. Practically speaking, I find loosening the bushing bolts less PITN than busting out the spindles anyway. So it's a win-win, in my book.

Well we went with busting out the spindles and it was a pain.