2021 Stinger GT1 HK audio upgrade help

[hoopster3]

I'm new to the forum as I just purchased a 2021 Stinger GT1 AWD. While the HK system is decent, I'm looking for better quality sound and some added bass while keeping a mostly factory look and retaining factory controls. Plus I don't mind having a longer term project to work on and I have broken this plan into phases to fit my budget and time to devote to this. The Stinger is my daily driver and I put on 100 miles daily so not much downtime.

It's been 25 years since I've attempted anything like this and it appears much has changed in the car audio world.

Open to feedback in all areas:

Phase 1

Sound dampening trunk and doors- Dynamat
Rockford Fosgate ADS-DSR1 8-Channel Signal Processor
JL Audio ACP110LG-TW1 Microsub+ single 10" powered sub

Phase 2

JL Audio XD800/8v2 8-channel car amplifier — 75 watts RMS

Front door- Morel Maximo Ultra 603 MKII Maximo Ultra Series 6-1/2" 3-way component speaker

Phase 3

Rear door- Morel Maximo Ultra 603 MKII Maximo Ultra Series 6-1/2" 3-way component speaker

Looking for an underseat replacement option

What am I missing or not thinking of with the build? I have made some assumptions and would like clarity on these questions as well:

1. Is the RF ADS processor the best move here to add a powered sub to my current system?
2. Is the Amp in Phase 2 adequate to power 4 full range component speakers and two smaller subs under the seats?
3. Will my plan for Phase I allow my current speakers to continue to be used while integrating the powered sub?
4. What installation issues do you forsee?
5. Won't I retain factory controls with this setup?

Not looking to knock anyone's socks off, just add a little fun to my daily commute. Any feedback is appreciated.

 

[Landshark]

i'm very picky about my audio - been chasing guitar tones for years, but as far as the HK system in the Stinger goes, i've found that it sounds good stock except for adding a 10" powered sub in a sealed enclosure.

the highs are pretty extreme with the HK, so i dialed them way down and tweak things a bit with the 20 band EQ on the Poweramp app ... i don't stream, i have 150gb of my music on my phone and play it through Android Auto.

 

[deusxjrpg]

I'm new to the forum as I just purchased a 2021 Stinger GT1 AWD. While the HK system is decent, I'm looking for better quality sound and some added bass while keeping a mostly factory look and retaining factory controls. Plus I don't mind having a longer term project to work on and I have broken this plan into phases to fit my budget and time to devote to this. The Stinger is my daily driver and I put on 100 miles daily so not much downtime.

It's been 25 years since I've attempted anything like this and it appears much has changed in the car audio world.

Open to feedback in all areas:

Phase 1

Sound dampening trunk and doors- Dynamat
Rockford Fosgate ADS-DSR1 8-Channel Signal Processor
JL Audio ACP110LG-TW1 Microsub+ single 10" powered sub

Phase 2

JL Audio XD800/8v2 8-channel car amplifier — 75 watts RMS

Front door- Morel Maximo Ultra 603 MKII Maximo Ultra Series 6-1/2" 3-way component speaker

Phase 3

Rear door- Morel Maximo Ultra 603 MKII Maximo Ultra Series 6-1/2" 3-way component speaker

Looking for an underseat replacement option

What am I missing or not thinking of with the build? I have made some assumptions and would like clarity on these questions as well:

1. Is the RF ADS processor the best move here to add a powered sub to my current system?
2. Is the Amp in Phase 2 adequate to power 4 full range component speakers and two smaller subs under the seats?
3. Will my plan for Phase I allow my current speakers to continue to be used while integrating the powered sub?
4. What installation issues do you forsee?
5. Won't I retain factory controls with this setup?

Not looking to knock anyone's socks off, just add a little fun to my daily commute. Any feedback is appreciated.

This sounds like a good plan of attack, though I'm not sure if you need to add a channel signal processor to get the bass signal. You may be able to tap into the stock amp in the rear hatch. The best build log is when you search "Build Log - Sound System Upgrade" on this forum. "can't paste link since I'm a new member.


How is this going hoopster? I've very interested in possibly just upgrading the speakers and adding a sub. Was thinking to add an amp too and all that, but recently been listening to it more and I honestly agree with Landshark that it sounds pretty good stock, just needs the highs tempered down and the bass could be a bit better. I had thought maybe just replacing the speakers would be worth it, but adding higher ohm speakers would significantly lower volume...

 

[stoopid]

How is this going hoopster? I've very interested in possibly just upgrading the speakers and adding a sub. Was thinking to add an amp too and all that, but recently been listening to it more and I honestly agree with Landshark that it sounds pretty good stock, just needs the highs tempered down and the bass could be a bit better. I had thought maybe just replacing the speakers would be worth it, but adding higher ohm speakers would significantly lower volume...

This ended up being my takeaway as well. I started and continued updating a rather long thread as I swapped speakers/tried different things. Ended up settling on new speakers with the stock subs, and while imperfect it's vastly improved and I've not had any moments in quite a while where I thought it worth the time or investment to do anything more.

Swapping front door tweeters (component speaker)

I have a GT2 so I can't test this idea out, but have any of you considered 3D printing grills with horns to tame and tune, and disperse the sound from the tweeters? For home systems I find nothing beats a Klipsch due to the nice, bright but well-tamed tweeters, and they do this by carefully...

stingerforum.org

The next phase would require replacing the amp in the trunk and adding a sub (disconnecting the subs under the front seats in lieu of something beefier in the trunk). IMHO waaay too much work for what isn't going to be appreciated more than maybe 3-4 hours total spent in the car each week. If I drove more, as I have in prior cars where I'd tackle projects like this, I'd perhaps think it more worthy the effort and money.

 

[Landshark]

The next phase would require replacing the amp in the trunk and adding a sub (disconnecting the subs under the front seats in lieu of something beefier in the trunk). IMHO waaay too much work for what isn't going to be appreciated more than maybe 3-4 hours total spent in the car each week.

FWIW, i left the two factory underseat subs in place and just added a powered sub in the trunk. depending on the type of music you listen to, the factory subs are crossed over so low you may never hear them anyway.

adding the sub was the easiest install i ever did ... battery is right in the trunk, hardest part was probably just posi-tapping the wires to the amp (also in the trunk lol). no LOC needed (sub accepted high-level inputs) and no remote turn on wire needed (sub has auto turn on option).

 

[stoopid]

FWIW, i left the two factory underseat subs in place and just added a powered sub in the trunk. depending on the type of music you listen to, the factory subs are crossed over so low you may never hear them anyway.

adding the sub was the easiest install i ever did ... battery is right in the trunk, hardest part was probably just posi-tapping the wires to the amp (also in the trunk lol). no LOC needed (sub accepted high-level inputs) and no remote turn on wire needed (sub has auto turn on option).

Yeah I've done exactly as you describe for prior vehicles, usually tapping into the rear door or rear deck speakers for a line/input.

I can hear the stock under the seat subs now, so it's doubtful they won't play some role in the sound profile with a trunk sub added. The door speakers can handle most audible bass frequencies, so disconnecting the stock subs ensures control of the improved bass response using the new/better sub.