2.0 Premium Rear Rotor Diameter, Pads

stinger541

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Hi, at 60K on my 2.0 Premium and started grinding brakes...never got a squeal/wear indicator noise. Just went from crappy braking to grinding after coming back from a long trip. Sort of crunches when finally stopped. So, I believe I need new pads and rotors all around. Was going to replace them anyway. 60K on OEM is fine by me.

I cannot find the actual tech specs of the rotors. Most things show the fronts as 320mm vented but even RockAuto has different data for the rears....seeing anything from 314 to 320 to 345!. Tried the Kia direct OEM sites but they do not say the diamter. Does anyone know for certain the diameter and thickness of the OEM rotors? Also, are the rears solid or vented? Never liked slotted/cross-drilled.

Also, for the pads...recommendations for just a street daily driver? Looking at Bosch, Wagner ceramic slotted...want low dust/no noise. Not sure who makes the OEM pads, or what material they were...does anyone know?

Please help, thanks in advance.
 
Thanks, I saw that, but that is for different years, different engines, etc. Mine is a 2018 2.0 Premium. He does mention a 2.0T, just not sure if the years make a difference? The 320 and 314mm sizing does match up to some of what I have been seeing, so I think I will go with that. Any thoughts on pads? I am reading a lot about the ceramic Bosch and the Akebono ceramics. Akebono seem to come out on top.
 
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Thanks, I saw that, but that is for different years, different engines, etc. Mine is a 2018 2.0 Premium. He does mention a 2.0T, just not sure if the years make a difference? The 320 and 314mm sizing does match up to some of what I have been seeing, so I think I will go with that. Any thoughts on pads? I am reading a lot about the ceramic Bosch and the Akebono ceramics. Akebono seem to come out on top.
So odd, too...Akebono appears to only make rear pads for our cars.
 
The 2.5L seems to have the same brakes, unless you find one that is Brembo equipped, which was an option I think. In that thread he does mention how small the 2.0L trims' rotors are compared to the 2.5L rotors - "12.60" F and 12.36" R according to KStinger.com" - so he's talking about the same cars we have, not the 2.5L.

Anyway, since you are replacing, why not put GT-Line brakes on your 2.0L? That solves the problem of wondering about aftermarket suitability and availability. If it were me replacing brakes on my Premium I'd get OEM parts, but have somebody else other than the dealer put them on, because they charge too much.
 
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The 2.5L seems to have the same brakes, unless you find one that is Brembo equipped, which was an option I think. In that thread he does mention how small the 2.0L trims' rotors are compared to the 2.5L rotors - "12.60" F and 12.36" R according to KStinger.com" - so he's talking about the same cars we have, not the 2.5L.

Anyway, since you are replacing, why not put GT-Line brakes on your 2.0L? That solves the problem of wondering about aftermarket suitability and availability. If it were me replacing brakes on my Premium I'd get OEM parts, but have somebody else other than the dealer put them on, because they charge too much.
Can I do the gt-line on my car? That works? Has this been done? What is the OEM manufacturer, does anyone know? Did the Premium come with ceramic or semi-metallic? Also, did Brembo make the OEM pads for the Premiums too? I know Brembo makes low-metallics for the 2.0. Ugh, so many questions. When I search on here, most everything returned comes up for the 3.3 or the big Brembos setup. So if someone knows the answers to these, please do pipe in! Thanks
 
When you say gt-line, do you mean the 2.5 or the 3.3 Brembos kit? That means getting those calipers too which I am not looking to do. That link you shared mentions the 2.5s having the same brakes, so the gt-line 2.5s are the same as the 2.0 I think.

Edit....I read this:

For 2022, KIA specs from their website 2022 Kia Stinger Specifications show 13.8 front, 13.4 rear for GT1 and GT2 with Brembo. The GT-Line has rotors that measure 13.6 front and 13.0 rear. I believe that same rotor size is on the 2.0L trims as well.

So can the 2.0 use those bigger rotors if using the same calipers? Does anyone know this? If using same calipers I have now, I need to get the same pads...so does the larger rotor make a difference at all in that case?
 
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I know that the rotors on the 2.0L are smaller than the GT-Line 2.5L rotors. That would mean replacing the 2.0L calipers with 2.5L GT-Line or they wouldn't take the larger OD rotors. I also know from what @Volfy said on that other thread that he has upgraded his 2.0L to the GT Brembo setup. So, for sure the GT-Line brakes with the larger rotors would fit the 2.0L, and probably cost quite a bit less than the Brembo setup. But you don't want to change calipers, so, that means sticking with the smaller, thinner OEM rotors of the 2.0L.
 
I know that the rotors on the 2.0L are smaller than the GT-Line 2.5L rotors. That would mean replacing the 2.0L calipers with 2.5L GT-Line or they wouldn't take the larger OD rotors. I also know from what @Volfy said on that other thread that he has upgraded his 2.0L to the GT Brembo setup. So, for sure the GT-Line brakes with the larger rotors would fit the 2.0L, and probably cost quite a bit less than the Brembo setup. But you don't want to change calipers, so, that means sticking with the smaller, thinner OEM rotors of the 2.0L.
Okay thanks, that makes sense and agrees with what I have been reading on my own. Lots of discussions around this on Bimmer pages. If I may continue to pick your brain...do you know if the original pads were ceramic or semi-metallic....or perhaps who made them? I keep seeing Brembo but am not sure if that is just because of the Brembo GT system back in 2018, or if Brembo just did the rotors and pads for all the Stingers including the 2.0s. I have been considering going to ceramics but if the OEMs have been semi-metallics, not sure if I need to, as these lasted 60K miles. I do feel the 2.0 brakes are undersized, so I do not want to lose the bite by going to ceramics. Just would not mind less dust! I was hoping to find the OEMS on Rockauto. They have a ton listed there but not sure if any of their manufacturers did the OEMs for Kia. For example, I know Toyota uses Akebono as their OEMs, and you can get those (only rears) on Rockauto.
 
I did the Brembo conversion on our 2.0T because we wanted to track that car. Otherwise, it might not be worth the while. For normal street driving, the stock 2.0T works just fine. Of course, better braking is never a bad thing. There are scenarios where having more brake thermal capacity would be good to have on public roads. If you live in mountainous area, where you have to do long steep descents regularly, or example.

As for trying to retrofit the 2.5T brakes onto a 2.0T... I have no first hand experience, so can't advise. I would imagine the 2.0T calipers would not work well with the supposedly larger non-Brembo 2.5T rotors - unless you can somehow move the caliper to engage the larger rotors properly.

IF you don't want to do Brembo retrofit, but still want better braking, just changing to a different set of brake pads - with a compound that better suit your preference - is the quickest way. Lots of aftermarket performance pads to choose from.
 
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I did the Brembo conversion on our 2.0T because we wanted to track that car. Otherwise, it might not be worth the while. For normal street driving, the stock 2.0T works just fine. Of course, better braking is never a bad thing. There are scenarios where having more brake thermal capacity would be good to have on public roads. If you live in mountainous area, where you have to do long steep descents regularly, or example.

As for trying to retrofit the 2.5T brakes onto a 2.0T... I have no first hand experience, so can't advise. I would imagine the 2.0T calipers would not work well with the supposedly larger non-Brembo 2.5T rotors - unless you can somehow move the caliper to engage the larger rotors properly.

IF you don't want to do Brembo retrofit, but still want better braking, just changing to a different set of brake pads - with a compound that better suit your preference - is the quickest way. Lots of aftermarket performance pads to choose from.
Hi Volfy! Thanks for the reply, I have seen you know a lot about brakes! I will do that, just change brakes and rotors. I assume I need rotors because they are now grinding badly and I do not want to just have them turned only to have to replace in another 10K miles or something. May I ask if you have a recommendation on pads/rotors? I have been looking at them and reviews for hours and hours. Many say to go to ceramics...do you know if the 2.0 had semi metallics or ceramics as OEM? Or maybe the manufacturer (if you saw one when you did yours)? Do you recommend staying with something like a Brembo or Bosch semi-metallic, or go to a ceramic? I have read that you lose bite that way....have also read that ceramics are not always great on steel rotors. I am thinking I will do a coated rotor. Live in the northeast, with snow, salt, etc.

Thank you!
 
If I may continue to pick your brain...
Well, that was quick. I have nothing.

We were talking about rotor compatibility/size, not pads. OEM is all I've ever gone with. From my reading on here the Brembo brakes use Brembo pads, soft, minimal dust and quiet. Other than obvious bite difference, I feel no difference between the pads on the 2.0L and the 3.3L, and I have never noticed any dust from the 2.0L pads, but I do with the 3.3L pads. Doesn't matter anyway, because I clean my wheels about once a week or two.

You are concerned that your rotors are trashed. Look over the surface and see if you have any deep scoring. If they look pretty smooth still, they may not even need resurfacing. If there is some scoring, get them resurfaced, put on fresh pads and go. Ima just telling you what I would do first. And I wouldn't worry about a particular pad compound, especially with the 2.0L. They just need to fit.

As far as "bedding" in the pads goes, on here is much talk about the "bedding in procedure". If in doubt, I guess follow the instructions that come with the pads. But when my 3.3L was brand new, during the 600 miles break in period, I followed the owner's manual recommendation to go easy on the brakes too. It is easy. I drive that way all the time. I never did do a pad break in/bedding regimen, just drove the damned car and didn't stand it on it's bloody ear. And I have never had a lick of lumpy, shuddery brakes in over 73,000 miles. I will do the same when the time comes to replace pads. If easing into new pads works, why change what works?
 
Hi Volfy! Thanks for the reply, I have seen you know a lot about brakes! I will do that, just change brakes and rotors. I assume I need rotors because they are now grinding badly and I do not want to just have them turned only to have to replace in another 10K miles or something. May I ask if you have a recommendation on pads/rotors? I have been looking at them and reviews for hours and hours. Many say to go to ceramics...do you know if the 2.0 had semi metallics or ceramics as OEM? Or maybe the manufacturer (if you saw one when you did yours)? Do you recommend staying with something like a Brembo or Bosch semi-metallic, or go to a ceramic? I have read that you lose bite that way....have also read that ceramics are not always great on steel rotors. I am thinking I will do a coated rotor. Live in the northeast, with snow, salt, etc.

Thank you!
Dunno what "grinding badly" means. The best way to gauge whether rotors need to be replaced is to measure their thickness against what is published on KStinger.com Look up minimum rotor thicknesses. You can get a good digital caliper for less than $25. IF your rotors are not right close to them, there is no problem with resurfacing, which shouldn't take off more than a mm (usually only a fraction of a mm, unless the rotor is badly scored/grooved/beveled). Too many folks throw away perfectly good OEM rotors. It's your money. You decide.

As for what pads to get... that's like asking what tires to get. Depends on your priorities and your use case(s). Just like tires, there is not one perfect type/compound that works best for every single application. The choices can make your head spin, just like the myriad of tire choices. Different folks will give you different opinions based on what worked great for their USAGE CASES, which may or may not be the same as yours. Mfrs and vendors advertising will promise you the moon and often under-deliver.

So... you need to be brutally honest with yourself on what you need and want. Street-oriented compounds generally have milder friction coefficient (Mu) curves and work better at lower ranges of temps, are usually rather quiet, smooth, and produce less brake dust, but cannot take high temp and heavy braking. Performance street - or the even higher track-rated - compounds have much higher Mu curves, can take high temps produced by sustained heavy braking (e.g. track paces), but they can be noisy, grabby at parking lot speeds, potentially wear faster (pads themselves and the rotors), and generally produce a lot of brake dust. It's a compromise, any way you slice it.
 
Dunno what "grinding badly" means. The best way to gauge whether rotors need to be replaced is to measure their thickness against what is published on KStinger.com Look up minimum rotor thicknesses. You can get a good digital caliper for less than $25. IF your rotors are not right close to them, there is no problem with resurfacing, which shouldn't take off more than a mm (usually only a fraction of a mm, unless the rotor is badly scored/grooved/beveled). Too many folks throw away perfectly good OEM rotors. It's your money. You decide.

As for what pads to get... that's like asking what tires to get. Depends on your priorities and your use case(s). Just like tires, there is not one perfect type/compound that works best for every single application. The choices can make your head spin, just like the myriad of tire choices. Different folks will give you different opinions based on what worked great for their USAGE CASES, which may or may not be the same as yours. Mfrs and vendors advertising will promise you the moon and often under-deliver.

So... you need to be brutally honest with yourself on what you need and want. Street-oriented compounds generally have milder friction coefficient (Mu) curves and work better at lower ranges of temps, are usually rather quiet, smooth, and produce less brake dust, but cannot take high temp and heavy braking. Performance street - or the even higher track-rated - compounds have much higher Mu curves, can take high temps produced by sustained heavy braking (e.g. track paces), but they can be noisy, grabby at parking lot speeds, potentially wear faster (pads themselves and the rotors), and generally produce a lot of brake dust. It's a compromise, any way you slice it.
Thanks...so there is a loud grinding noise and then a sort of 'crunch' as i finally come to a stop. My car is in the city and parked on the street, so I cannot measure anything. I plan to bring it to a shop to let them measure, but we will see how that goes. As to the pads question....this is my daily driver, take it on the highway, run errands, etc. No racing, track, etc. I just want quiet brakes that stop well...I would like less brake dust but not at the expense of good stopping. That is why I was wondering if you had any brands you recommend. I have been looking at maybe Centric rotors or Raybestos, and then trying to decide on the brake pads. Thinking about the Brembo low metallics or Bosch ceramics. Do you happen to know what the 2.0 came with originally? Thanks!
 
Thanks...so there is a loud grinding noise and then a sort of 'crunch' as i finally come to a stop.
That doesn't sound good. New pads/rotors or not, I would get that looked at ASAP.
My car is in the city and parked on the street, so I cannot measure anything. I plan to bring it to a shop to let them measure, but we will see how that goes.
When I lived in NYC, I worked on my bike parked ona side street... in late November. Lol. If there is a will, there is a way, but that's up to you.
As to the pads question....this is my daily driver, take it on the highway, run errands, etc. No racing, track, etc. I just want quiet brakes that stop well...I would like less brake dust but not at the expense of good stopping. That is why I was wondering if you had any brands you recommend. I have been looking at maybe Centric rotors or Raybestos, and then trying to decide on the brake pads. Thinking about the Brembo low metallics or Bosch ceramics.
I can only speak from my own experience with EBC Yellowstuff and BlueStuff. Neither are suitable for your use case. IMO, sounds like you should be looking for a good/premium ceramic pad. Something like EBC Redstuff. You don't really want to get into metallics. Even semi-metallics would be hard on rotors and make corrosive brake dust. Plus their Mu curve typically takes a nose dive when temp drops, so you might glide thru that first stop sign on a frigid Winter morning, which was what happened to me back in the days. Had to get used to it then, since metallics was about the only choice for high-performance pads in the old days. Plus, these days, used of copper is banned for environmental reasons. Copper was a major ingredient what makes metallics so effective in high-temp application. I'm not sure the exact performance implications with the absence copper. I do know a lot of car mfr's had to oversize their braking systems to compensate. That partly explains why there are so many big Brembos in a lot of new cars.

Thankfully, these days, there are alternatives. Some organics have high Mu across a very wide temp range, which is one reason I got the EBCs. Expensive, yes, but worth every penny when I can do track days and still daily on them.

For you, go with a performance street compound, either organics or ceramic. Bear in mind the type of compound doesn't automatically mean it's either good or bad. Formulation and quality vary greatly in each category. While ceramics tend to be more towards the lower end of braking performance, there are a good overlap with organics, such that the best ceramics can outperform mediocre organics, or even cheap semi-metallics.

The construction of the pad wear layer and backing plate matter almost as much as the pad material. Braking capacity is determined by the overall thermo capacity of the pad/rotor system. Good pad construction helps to conduct hear away from the contact surface.

While I can't give you a direct recommendation based on personal experience, I will suggest you pay attention to the mfr's description/instructions on seating/bedding process, as well as the technical specs of each specific pad. I avoid those that don't offer detail specs, use case recommendations, and ops instructions. That's usually a sign that the vendor don't possess much technical competency. Some simply relabeled somebody else's pads to offer as their own brand and have not done the proper vetting/engineering/testing/qualifications. Not to say such offerings are automatically crap, but it does meaning you're throwing the dice blind on them.
Do you happen to know what the 2.0 came with originally? Thanks!
Dunno, but my guess is ceramic, since brake dust is minimal. They are better than the OEM ceramics that came with Stingers with Brembos, as I've not heard any 2.0 drivers complaining about pad material deposits on rotors, which is very common with Brembo OEM pads. They are actually not that bad. In the short amount of time I've driven on the OEM pads, before doing the Brembo retrofit, I found the pads to have a good initial bite and they modulate fairly decently. Pretty good match for the use cases the 2.0T Stinger was designed to fulfill.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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