“Check Brake Switch Fuse”

[ArchStinger]

Unfortunately this is my first post regarding my GT2 as it is about a malfunction it is having. I bought it a few months ago from a dealer used with less than 7k miles on it. A few days after driving it I noticed my cigarette lighter in the front wasn’t working cause I connected my radar detector to it but it wouldn’t turn on. Looking in the socket I found a dime stuck all the way inside it. I was able to take it out with the car off (to avoid any more shorting) and I had to switch the fuse as it had blown out. After that the plug was working again. A month went by and one random afternoon getting out of the grocery store I tried to open my trunk and it would not open. After removing the door handle thing to get in manually I did notice it wasn’t the battery as the car was still lighting up and the speedometer dashboard was on. Then when I tried turning it on the warning in the picture attached came up. Looking online I found one Kia dealer’s website mentioning to replace the fuse or if not possible just hold the ignition button for 10 seconds to turn the engine on. Luckily that worked and I drove home like if nothing happened (I know not very smart). Now it’s happened again, a month later, but now the electronics aren’t working. The touch screen won’t turn on and even traction control is off. I’ve tried finding this “Brake Switch Fuse” everywhere and I can’t seem to find that label in any of the fuse boxes. Can anyone help please, I’d very much appreciate it. I’ve contacted the dealer near me but they can’t look at it for another week (busy from 4th of July).

 

[ArchStinger]

Forgot to mention, I don’t even know if these two problems (cigarette lighter fuse and brake switch fuse) are associated with one another but it is an assumption I have made since it seems too coincidental.

 

[nhcowboy28]

Check stop lamp fuse and module 3 fuses under dash.
Also examine the actual switch plug in / near the brake pedal

 

[SoCalSHO]

Top middle fuse is the stop lamp fuse

 

[SoCalSHO]

You can find the diagrams here.

http://www.kstinger.com/fuse_relay_panel_description-293.html

 

[ArchStinger]

Top middle fuse is the stop lamp fuse
View attachment 60462

Thanks, but that’s just the brake light. This is definitely not just a light fuse issue. I think it may be one of the module fuses like the guy above mentioned. Btw the car is running like normal now…just scared the car will just randomly shut off on the highway lol. Will be taking it to the dealer next week.

 

[ArchStinger]

Thanks, but that’s just the brake light. This is definitely not just a light fuse issue. I think it may be one of the module fuses like the guy above mentioned. Btw the car is running like normal now…just scared the car will just randomly shut off on the highway lol. Will be taking it to the dealer next week.

Forgot to mention it’s not that because the brake lights are functioning.

 

[G-572655]

Forgot to mention it’s not that because the brake lights are functioning.

Did they find the problem mine is doing the same exact thing

 

[ArchStinger]

Did they find the problem mine is doing the same exact thing

Yeah it was just a bolt that apparently wasn’t set in completely which was preventing an electrical circuit to be closed and that’s why the CPU would shit off and on…that’s all they told me but it was all covered by warranty

 

[rpoffen]

The stop lamp fuse circuitry must be kinda strange. I have been playing around with my own brake snip mod for better launches than LC can give.
If I pull the stop lamp fuse (car off) and then try to start it, then I get the "check fuse" message. Indeed, the brake lights don't work.
if I replace the fuse, then start the car and pull the fuse while it is running, there are no messages or warnings. In fact, the brake lights work now that the ignition is on. I can put it in gear (E-shifter) and drive the car. Only difference is that if I disable TC and SC, hold the brake hard with my left foot and give it gas, I can spool up to at least 3000 RPM and build 5 PSI boost (that's all I felt safe doing) which is considerably higher than what LC provides.
I will have to wait until I can get to the track to see how much my times improve. I always felt that with AWD and puny LC, it takes so long to build boost off the line.

 

[ArchStinger]

The stop lamp fuse circuitry must be kinda strange. I have been playing around with my own brake snip mod for better launches than LC can give.
If I pull the stop lamp fuse (car off) and then try to start it, then I get the "check fuse" message. Indeed, the brake lights don't work.
if I replace the fuse, then start the car and pull the fuse while it is running, there are no messages or warnings. In fact, the brake lights work now that the ignition is on. I can put it in gear (E-shifter) and drive the car. Only difference is that if I disable TC and SC, hold the brake hard with my left foot and give it gas, I can spool up to at least 3000 RPM and build 5 PSI boost (that's all I felt safe doing) which is considerably higher than what LC provides.
I will have to wait until I can get to the track to see how much my times improve. I always felt that with AWD and puny LC, it takes so long to build boost off the line.

Yeah it’s strange to say the least… when I’d get the warning my brake lights were still functioning but the car would randomly lose power for half a second causing the infotainment, A/C, and even the power seat adjusters to stop working. I knew it wasn’t an actual fuse when I replaced almost every single one related to brakes or lights.

That boost is crazy, I never thought about messing with that. At least you get traction quicker cause even with fresh Michelin PS4s’ in the rear the RWD stinger goes tail happy. Sometimes I feel like the car is faster with TC and SC activated cause it takes so long to regain traction