newbie here, how do I find those posts? I did a query search and could not locate.
awww... that works. I went to the NGK website and found the part (NGK ILKR9Q7G). However, on the website, it states it is NOT compatible with my 2022 Stinger GT-Line AWD. ???
Thanks for this. I'm at 52k now, and just ordered a set. I've been running a JB4 for the past 30,000 miles with no issues on the stock plugs, but figure the 1 stage colder would be fine. Also much cheaper for the NGK than OEM (not in stock at my Kia dealer anyway) or the HKS plugs.
Curious, have you been running Map 1 or Map 2 on the stock plugs? Bout to scoop a jb4 and plan to run Map 2, but not a lot of info about the 2.5t floating around.
Been running Map 2 99% of the time. Once in a great while, I'll switch to Map 3 if I'm able to throw 4 gallons of E85 in the tank when filling it up. I'd like to do that a bit more often, so that's why I'm switching
After a day with these gapped how they came out of the box (.025), my 2.5t started stuttering lightly on the highway when lightly accelerating. Also developed a bit of a hesitation when pulling away from a stop after idling. Full throttle felt fine, but normal driving was probably fouling the plugs with that small gap somewhat. This was on Map 0, 1, and 2. No codes popped up when scanned, but it was driving worse than when I had the stock plugs in there. With 52k miles, the stock plugs I pulled had a gap of .035 and were in good condition. Stock gap calls for .031 to .035 from what I found for the 2.0t, as I couldn't find anything on the 2.5t. So I pulled them again and set them at .032. Thirty minutes of driving in various conditions (full throttle, gentle, etc...) and the problems disappeared. I'll do a longer relaxed drive this weekend on the highway to see if it comes back. Side note: Was very easy to change plugs on this car compared to the 3.3!
Interesting report. I suspect low ambient temp might be contributing to that. Ideally, for a spark plug to function well, its center electrode needs to operate in a temp range of 500-950C. The main reason for going to 1 heat range colder plug (compared to OEM plug) is to compensate for a modded car's higher boost pressures and the higher temps the spark plugs are likely to experience at high engine load (WOT and high engine RPM). Keeping the electrode temp in the proper range prevents pre-ignition, which helps the engine maintain optimum performance.After a day with these gapped how they came out of the box (.025), my 2.5t started stuttering lightly on the highway when lightly accelerating. Also developed a bit of a hesitation when pulling away from a stop after idling. Full throttle felt fine, but normal driving was probably fouling the plugs with that small gap somewhat. This was on Map 0, 1, and 2. No codes popped up when scanned, but it was driving worse than when I had the stock plugs in there. With 52k miles, the stock plugs I pulled had a gap of .035 and were in good condition. Stock gap calls for .031 to .035 from what I found for the 2.0t, as I couldn't find anything on the 2.5t. So I pulled them again and set them at .032. Thirty minutes of driving in various conditions (full throttle, gentle, etc...) and the problems disappeared. I'll do a longer relaxed drive this weekend on the highway to see if it comes back. Side note: Was very easy to change plugs on this car compared to the 3.3!
It has been around 40F (around 4 C). Will only be getting colder here in the Chicago area for the next few months, so seems like running these with a gap that's closer to stock should do the trick. Thanks!Interesting report. I suspect low ambient temp might be contributing to that. Ideally, for a spark plug to function well, its center electrode needs to operate in a temp range of 500-950C. The main reason for going to 1 heat range colder plug (compared to OEM plug) is to compensate for a modded car's higher boost pressures and the higher temps the spark plugs are likely to experience at high engine load (WOT and high engine RPM). Keeping the electrode temp in the proper range prevents pre-ignition, which helps the engine maintain optimum performance.
However... it is possible for the electrode to get too cold (below 500C). That can happen if very low ambient temp causes IAT (intake air temp) to drop very low. That could cause the plug to lose the ability to self clean. In such a case, a colder plug would not work well, especially at low speed and normal driving.
It's a balancing act, and your engine's operating conditions need to be taken into account.
Do you need any other mods to be pumping e? Or is it as long as youve got the jb4 in the correct map its fine to run? is there a noticeable difference in power between map 2 on 93 and map 3/4 on e30?
