2.0T Previously posted about issues with my Stinger, have update + Video

[Pinkslipp]

Hey everyone,

I posted last week sometime about my 2.0 having really bad performance issues with stuttering and high RPM and no acceleration. I was asked to capture it on video, and I have. Let me preface this by saying I know the engine is showing cold and that I shouldn't be driving that hard on a cold start, but, when I started my car today, the engine made a stuttering / stalling noise and almost shut off. I then reversed, and upon backing out of my spot, the car stuttered...at less than 3 mph. I could feel the car on edge of stuttering as I was driving out of my apartment complex, and my first huge stutter came when I made a left turn onto the main street.

I decided at this point that I had no choice but to record my speedometer, even on a cold start with full acceleration. In the video, you can see that I hit about 4500 to close to 5k RPM and my acceleration doesn't go anywhere after 55 MPH. And I hold this acceleration for good 10-15 seconds.

I've got an appointment with the dealership for the 31st, but now I'm wondering if I need to get it in ASAP. Let me know what you think.

Video:

 

[Bryan3.3]

I wouldn’t hesitate to get it there immediately. I wouldn’t even drive it, we do have free roadside assistance that will flatbed it right to your dealership. That will put a fire under their ass to get it fixed for you.

 

[Pinkslipp]

I wouldn’t hesitate to get it there immediately. I wouldn’t even drive it, we do have free roadside assistance that will flatbed it right to your dealership. That will put a fire under their ass to get it fixed for you.

I'm currently at work and need a way home. Luckily I'm on call tonight and can leave a little earlier. Roadside is 24/7, correct?

 

[Bryan3.3]

I'm currently at work and need a way home. Luckily I'm on call tonight and can leave a little earlier. Roadside is 24/7, correct?

Yes 24/7, good luck. I hope it doesn’t leave you stuck. I’m sure they would give you a loaner or rent you a vehicle until they get it figured out.

 

[Pinkslipp]

Yes 24/7, good luck. I hope it doesn’t leave you stuck. I’m sure they would give you a loaner or rent you a vehicle until they get it figured out.

The dealership is closed. So, I will be driving it back home tonight.

 

[Euljiro1ga]

needs to get that checked asap.

good luck.

 

[RobertPaulson]

The first gen sonata/optima 2.0T’s had a wastegate issue leading to the wastegate being stuck open, which means no boost, which means no horsepower and horrendous acceleration, similar to your performance. A restart of the engine after it warmed up would fix it, only occurred on cold starts. Stuttering was not a symptom though. Does a restart after warm up fix it? Either way, looks like no boost. Might want to pop the hood and check the turbo plumbing to make sure no hoses slipped off or are leaking.

 

[Pinkslipp]

The first gen sonata/optima 2.0T’s had a wastegate issue leading to the wastegate being stuck open, which means no boost, which means no horsepower and horrendous acceleration, similar to your performance. A restart of the engine after it warmed up would fix it, only occurred on cold starts. Stuttering was not a symptom though. Does a restart after warm up fix it? Either way, looks like no boost. Might want to pop the hood and check the turbo plumbing to make sure no hoses slipped off or are leaking.

It happens every single time I turn my car on after it's sat for 6+ hours. So going to work and leaving work. It does fine once the engine is warmed up but the thing is, the stuttering and acceleration issues are happening even when I'm just trying to drive the car normally, with normal to even slow acceleration. I've never tried to wait for it to warm up because I've never had the intention of flooring my vehicle after just starting it. It's just the problem is always there no matter how I drive it, be it slow or fast.

 

[RobertPaulson]

The issue was caused by a metal rod between the wastegate and the wastegate actuator. Every time the car was started, it would do a calibration check. When it was cold, the rod would shrink enough to fail the calibration check, and the wastegate would lock open. But if you let the engine warm up, the rod would warm, expand, and after initiating the calibration check again by shutting down and then restarting, it would then run normally. I think the issue was fixed on the second gen engines, but it just sounds too familiar, as the car was literally 20 seconds 0-60.

 

[Bryan3.3]

The first gen sonata/optima 2.0T’s had a wastegate issue leading to the wastegate being stuck open, which means no boost, which means no horsepower and horrendous acceleration, similar to your performance. A restart of the engine after it warmed up would fix it, only occurred on cold starts. Stuttering was not a symptom though. Does a restart after warm up fix it? Either way, looks like no boost. Might want to pop the hood and check the turbo plumbing to make sure no hoses slipped off or are leaking.

His name was Robert Paulson, his name was Robert Paulson, his name was Robert Paulson.

 

[Bryan3.3]

The issue was caused by a metal rod between the wastegate and the wastegate actuator. Every time the car was started, it would do a calibration check. When it was cold, the rod would shrink enough to fail the calibration check, and the wastegate would lock open. But if you let the engine warm up, the rod would warm, expand, and after initiating the calibration check again by shutting down and then restarting, it would then run normally. I think the issue was fixed on the second gen engines, but it just sounds too familiar, as the car was literally 20 seconds 0-60.

Why do rods shrink when there cold?

 

[RobertPaulson]

Why do rods shrink when there cold?

I WAS IN THE POOL!!!

 

[Pinkslipp]

The issue was caused by a metal rod between the wastegate and the wastegate actuator. Every time the car was started, it would do a calibration check. When it was cold, the rod would shrink enough to fail the calibration check, and the wastegate would lock open. But if you let the engine warm up, the rod would warm, expand, and after initiating the calibration check again by shutting down and then restarting, it would then run normally. I think the issue was fixed on the second gen engines, but it just sounds too familiar, as the car was literally 20 seconds 0-60.

So there's no fix other than just wait for your car to warm up and then restart it? I really don't feel like having to deal with that shit when I paid the money I paid for this car.

 

[RobertPaulson]

There’s a permanent fix, but if the warm engine restart doesn’t fix it, then there is a different problem. Does it drive 100% normally after a warm engine restart?

 

[Never thought]

If you can, when it starts to occur I’d drive it right to the dealer, keep it running, grab the service manager and a tech and have them drive it.

 

[MarkyMark]

I WAS IN THE POOL!!!

Thanks George! LOL!

 

[Pinkslipp]

There’s a permanent fix, but if the warm engine restart doesn’t fix it, then there is a different problem. Does it drive 100% normally after a warm engine restart?

There's a new wrinkle now. I just drove one of my employees in it that used to be a mechanic. We got out and popped the hood and he said he could smell burning oil + antifreeze which has him believe it could be a head gasket. And to add to that, when I'm driving, I sometimes smell something akin to a skunk and it happens frequently, so I assume it's coming from the engine. I'm on call this week so I'm going to try and take it in Wednesday or Thursday and just work from home. And yes, the car runs completely normal once the engine is warm.

 

[Chapindad]

Not to Hijack, but darn 31+ MPG?!

 

[Bryan3.3]

There's a new wrinkle now. I just drove one of my employees in it that used to be a mechanic. We got out and popped the hood and he said he could smell burning oil + antifreeze which has him believe it could be a head gasket. And to add to that, when I'm driving, I sometimes smell something akin to a skunk and it happens frequently, so I assume it's coming from the engine. I'm on call this week so I'm going to try and take it in Wednesday or Thursday and just work from home. And yes, the car runs completely normal once the engine is warm.

Have them check the electronic thermostat. There may be an issue with it opening and closing properly.

 

[robz32]

definitely sounds like a thermostat issue. Also to discard a head gasket failure, check you oil dip stick and look and smell the oil. If it is a creamy color then you have a gasket failure.