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Another brake snip question

AWDGT2

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I'm sorry if this has been asked but I've tried to read EVERYTHING possible out there on this already. There are some terms that are thrown out there that are ambiguous and I just don't understand what they are talking about. First, let me explain what I do prior to the tree and then my questions below.
1. Disable the Auto off so the engine doesn't die at the light
2. Sport mode
3. Disable traction control/stability control
4. Brake boost and go

*What is "Weak Snip"?
*What is Beast Mode?
If you do the brake snip do you still disable the "Auto Off"?
If you do the brake snip do you still disable traction control/stability control
How, when, or why does the Auto Off light blink?
 
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The "brake snip" disconnects a signal line going to the ECU that tells it when the brakes are applied. The only observed effect is this permits you to rev higher while holding the brakes. e.g., if you try to rev at the tree, the ECU will limit to a fairly low level (2k rpm? 3k?). Snip the line, and you can rev to the converter stall. Go modify the converter and you can rev much higher, thereby have the turbos working right off the line.
Actually getting off the line with that is a different issue.

Has no affect on auto off, traction control, etc etc.
 
Beast mode is when the auto off light flickers. Supposedly if you let the car run for 5 or so min and then activate launch control you get beast mode.
 
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OK, I think I understand. Still disable Traction and Stability control... Leave the Auto Off button alone and then brake and go?
Beast mode is when the auto off light flickers. Supposedly if you let the car run for 5 or so min and then activate launch control you get beast mode.
 
What happens when the auto off light flickers? What is different that makes that better than when it's not flickering? It just bothers me when I don't know how things work lol.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Exactly! LOL
I'm still waiting on these answers...
If you do the brake snip do you still disable the "Auto Off"?
If you do the brake snip do you still disable traction control/stability control
How, when, or why does the Auto Off light blink?
What happens when the auto off light flickers? What is different that makes that better than when it's not flickering? It just bothers me when I don't know how things work lol.
 
I don’t have this mod but from my understanding, it allows the turbos to build boost at launch rather than launching and waiting for them to spool up resulting in a kick in the seat of ur pants. Can only imagine how hard the AWD models launch with this mod
 
Exactly! LOL
I'm still waiting on these answers...
If you do the brake snip do you still disable the "Auto Off"?
If you do the brake snip do you still disable traction control/stability control
How, when, or why does the Auto Off light blink?
Yes disable auto off, auto hold and traction control. Someone said dont disable stability control and that will prevent it from going into limp mode when wheels spin I'm RWD) and this seems to be true frlm what I've experienced.
 
I'm sorry if this has been asked but I've tried to read EVERYTHING possible out there on this already. There are some terms that are thrown out there that are ambiguous and I just don't understand what they are talking about. First, let me explain what I do prior to the tree and then my questions below.
1. Disable the Auto off so the engine doesn't die at the light
2. Sport mode
3. Disable traction control/stability control
4. Brake boost and go

*What is "Weak Snip"?
*What is Beast Mode?
If you do the brake snip do you still disable the "Auto Off"?
If you do the brake snip do you still disable traction control/stability control
How, when, or why does the Auto Off light blink?

Ok, back to the “weak snip”. What is this?
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I'm pretty sure I've sorted everything out. As soon as you switch open that connection it's considered weak snip.. at least for a few minutes. Basically the ECU hasn't figured out that it can't shut the motor off as if it was at a stop light. If you're in line to stage for a run, it will allow you to brake boost quite a bit more than standard LC, well over 2k.
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If you put the car in drive and wait....wait...wait.. the auto off dash light will start blinking. It will happen between 1 and 2 minutes... that's beast mode. Basically the ECU has figured out something is wrong and it can't shut the engine off. If you stage then, you're close to 2.9k ish of rpm and boost builds like crazy.
My last launch at the track was at 2882rpm, 13.1psi of boost and 1.71 60'.
I turn off traction control and stability control. I've tried launching with it on and the ecu detected wheel spin and it shut the throttle down quick and put the car on its face.....this is an AWD
I brake boost for under 1 sec! Yes, it's that fast. First yellow full pedal, third yellow slip off the brake.
 
There it is, thats what I need. Thanks for the clarification
 
You can Brake boost without the BrakeSnip.

Just take out the Stop Lamp fuse and replace it with a Fuse tap, inline fuse holder and a switch.

Put in Drive, turn off switch (simulates fuse pull) and now you can brake boost. After you are done switch back on, turn Car on/off to clear dash lights and back to normal.

And obviously this would only be used on a Track.

Enjoy!
 
You can Brake boost without the BrakeSnip.

Just take out the Stop Lamp fuse and replace it with a Fuse tap, inline fuse holder and a switch.

Put in Drive, turn off switch (simulates fuse pull) and now you can brake boost. After you are done switch back on, turn Car on/off to clear dash lights and back to normal.

And obviously this would only be used on a Track.

Enjoy!
 
You can Brake boost without the BrakeSnip.

Just take out the Stop Lamp fuse and replace it with a Fuse tap, inline fuse holder and a switch.

Put in Drive, turn off switch (simulates fuse pull) and now you can brake boost. After you are done switch back on, turn Car on/off to clear dash lights and back to normal.

And obviously this would only be used on a Track.

Enjoy!
So I pulled the fuse just to try and I get spin? And I don’t get the “Launch control ready” notification on the dash when I rev. Is this how it’s supposed to be?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
So I pulled the fuse just to try and I get spin? And I don’t get the “Launch control ready” notification on the dash when I rev. Is this how it’s supposed to be?
Yes, since it can't read the brake position anymore, it won't say launch control ready. But you should be able to boost as much as you want. I wouldn't recommend more than 2800 RPM though as it might put too much strain on the driveline.
 
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Yes, since it can't read the brake position anymore, it won't say launch control ready. But you should be able to boost as much as you want. I wouldn't recommend more than 2800 RPM though as it might put too much strain on the driveline.
Ahh okay. And in order to clear the dash, I’d have to turn the engine off and restart? No workaround?
 
Ahh okay. And in order to clear the dash, I’d have to turn the engine off and restart? No workaround?
Yeah, you have to restart.
 
Yeah, you have to restart.
You're awesome - thanks! Do you have a link or description of the parts you used? I have the fuse tap & in-line fuse holder, but how did you wire the switch?
 
You're awesome - thanks! Do you have a link or description of the parts you used? I have the fuse tap & in-line fuse holder, but how did you wire the switch?
Here are the parts I used
Fuse tap
Switch
I also got a spare cover so I could put the stock one back on if I don’t need it which I probably don’t anymore since I bought a Lozic TCU from a fellow forum member that has the LC torque limit disabled.
 

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