Recommended mods for track day and daily driver Stinger GT AWD

[Rev_Night]

Hey Peeps,

I have a 2019 Stinger GT AWD, and overall I'm very happy with it. It has the power I want, as well as functional back seats and cargo area. I took it to Summit Point (WVA) track over the weekend, and while I very much enjoyed myself, the overall performance did leave me wanting. I know there is a difference between a sports car and a sports sedan. And no amount of mods will ever make this 4000+ lb behemoth as nimble as my old 350Z. However, through mods, there is improvement to be had -- thus the reason of this thread.

My goal is to mod the stinger so that it can vastly improve on the track yet still retain its quiet ride in a city environment. The wifey and kid still need to be fine with the 'Comfort' setting. 'Sport' mode is only for me or at the track. Additionally, I do have somewhat of a budget, so I am trying to stay on the positive side of the diminishing returns and price/performance curve. As I only plan on going to the track 2x a year, so this is more of a moderate hobby than grand ambitions.

Below are the mods I am looking at, but I would like your recommendations on how best to fulfill them. Brands, products, etc.. Being that the Shenandoah Course has around 20 turns and only 1 true straight away, trying to install mods for 500hp doesn't seem like a good idea. I figured I would make this thread high level on this General forum, and make more detailed threads on the sub forums.

Current Mods:

• K&N drop filters
• 35% tint
• 19" Continental DSW06, 255 squared
• TSW Sprint 19x9.5 +20

Future Mods:

• Suspension:
  • Eibach pro-kit (sways, springs). Soft/Soft for city, Hard/Hard for track days
  • Are chassis struts a noticeable track improvement? I see Ultra Racing makes some, but all 3 are pricey and in low stock too
• Brakes
  • Slotted brake rotors?
  • Better pads?
  • Transmission/Brake fluid DOT 4 (Motul 600 brake fluid)
  • Stainless steel brake lines?
• Power
  • What helps transmission shift quicker/better?
  • Keep it on auto or learn paddles?
  • BMS pedal tuner?

thanks yall!

 

[stoopid]

Does your GT have adaptive dampers? If not, then there's no suspension difference between sport and comfort.

If you travel with passengers and the roads aren't great in your area (as I suspect they're not), adding any rigidity to the suspension will make daily driving and long trips less pleasant with harsher road feedback (bumps). Having dampers you can easily adjust is a must IMO. But yes, improving suspension is likely top priority. I don't think chassis struts are really needed unless your suspension is super harsh/tight. Otherwise you're not sending enough into the chassis for the chassis struts to matter.

The stock brake pads supposedly suck by all accounts and measures, but the discs are fine. Maybe start with those for improved/less fade and get rotors later as needed.

Sport mode offers the quickest gear shifts, and that's about it. The transmission is fairly quick, and seems good at being in the right gear at the right time (auto). You're more likely to get heat soak and turbo lag holding your shifts back due to power not building as quick after a few laps. Maybe an upgraded intercooler.

 

[RM7]

One of the biggest and most noticeable mods is summer performance tires.

 

[MerlintheMad]

The only thing I would want to definitely have in place to track this car (I've never tracked any car), after all my reading, is track spec brake fluid and stainless brake lines. I think the first time out I'd run the OE brake pads, just because I have them and they've never caused me the first hint of grief: let the track trash them, if they are going to be replaced. I already have Eibach sways and I would move them to Hard. And I already run on PS4S.

 

[StingertimeNC]

I have the Ark GT F springs with Eibach sways. I also have adaptive dampers though. I can vouch for the comfort of this setup. Wife has no complaints if I leave the suspension in comfort. I suspect that the eibach springs might be a little more bouncy as the drop is a bit more if I remember. Headed to VIR in a couple of months so looking forward to seeing how this setup does

 

[Rev_Night]

Does your GT have adaptive dampers? If not, then there's no suspension difference between sport and comfort.

If you travel with passengers and the roads aren't great in your area (as I suspect they're not), adding any rigidity to the suspension will make daily driving and long trips less pleasant with harsher road feedback (bumps). Having dampers you can easily adjust is a must IMO. But yes, improving suspension is likely top priority. I don't think chassis struts are really needed unless your suspension is super harsh/tight. Otherwise you're not sending enough into the chassis for the chassis struts to matter.

The stock brake pads supposedly suck by all accounts and measures, but the discs are fine. Maybe start with those for improved/less fade and get rotors later as needed.

Sport mode offers the quickest gear shifts, and that's about it. The transmission is fairly quick, and seems good at being in the right gear at the right time (auto). You're more likely to get heat soak and turbo lag holding your shifts back due to power not building as quick after a few laps. Maybe an upgraded intercooler.

After a quick google search, only GT1 and GT2 have adaptive dampers (Electronically Controlled Suspension). I live in NOVA, so the roads are actually pretty good here. So yes to the sways/springs, no to the chassis struts.

-What brake pads/intercooler would you recommend?

 

[RedCal]

I'll toss in an non performance temporary mod...
A roll of track armour to keep the rock chips at bay...

 

[stoopid]

One of the biggest and most noticeable mods is summer performance tires.

I saw and forgot to mention the DWS06 are all season tourers, definitely not ideal track rubber. Pilot Sport AS 3+ or 4 [or equivalent] would be best, and will be replacing my OE all seasons (had Pilot 3+ on my prior vehicle, noticeable grip improvement). I would put tires at the top, then springs, then intercooler and/or shoes depending on temps at the track on an average day (intercooler less critical if air temps aren't an issue).

 

[stoopid]

After a quick google search, only GT1 and GT2 have adaptive dampers (Electronically Controlled Suspension). I live in NOVA, so the roads are actually pretty good here. So yes to the sways/springs, no to the chassis struts.

-What brake pads/intercooler would you recommend?

Some members post GT generically, which is why it was mentioned.

I haven't needed to replace my pads or rotors yet, but probably looking at EBC Yellow or Red pads if the rotors are fine. EBC also sell race grade pads/rotors. If doing pads and rotors I'm not sure I'll want to splurge on EBC and would decide at the time based on what's in stock at rockauto. Even with the forum member discount they're priced at a premium, and probably worth it if you're lashing the car around a track.

Hopefully someone who's pushing things or tracking their Stinger can recommend a specific intercooler, I doubt there's too many available since it's a fairly serious/need-specific mod.

 

[Rev_Night]

But then I have to have a set of tires at all times in my garage, which is something I am trying to avoid. I did this with the Z (winter/summer setup) and it was actually a huge PITA. Especially for only 2 track days a year

 

[stoopid]

But then I have to have a set of tires at all times in my garage, which is something I am trying to avoid. I did this with the Z (winter/summer setup) and it was actually a huge PITA. Especially for only 2 track days a year

Yup, that's kinda the price to be paid unfortunately. Hence why I've never opted for winter tires when living in a snowy area in the past (I currently have no interest in tracking, but now live where I have run sport tires fine all year).

Skipping the tires will slow your cornering due to traction limitations. That will in turn make any suspension improvements moot since you're more likely to hit the tire's limits before body roll/under/over steer becomes an issue. And if not zipping around the track at full tilt, and living in nova scotia tending to be cooler than say the desert where I am, the intercooler is likely overkill too.

Pin stripes and blacking out the car it is!

 

[Rev_Night]

Well I live in hot and humid Virginia. Track days will be in Spring/Fall, but the pavement does get hot, and the car isnt exactly under shade between sessions

 

[GreenGSX]

If you don't have a lot of track experience I would suggest investing in more seat time and less mods to the car. The most important nut in the car is behind the wheel.

For track prep I would suggest simple mods that allow the car to maintain its performance as it gets to track temps and beyond. That means performance summer tires, street/track pads, and reasonably fresh brake fluid. There are too many good 200-300TW summer tires out there to go through them all but just find a set that fits your budget.

I've used Hawk pads for a long time and I've had good luck with HP+ front and rear for daily driving and track use. You have to live with dust and a little noise but having brakes that last a whole session is worth it to me. It can be hard to find the correct pads for our cars but if you search for 2010 Evo X front pads and 2018+ Sti rear pads its easy to find any compound for any manufacturer you like. For fluid anything less than a year old is fine. I personally use Ate typ 200 because it works, its cheap, and its easy to get on Amazon.

Finally, get a good tire pressure gauge and track your tire pressures coming off track to find the sweet spot for whatever tire your running.

My track setup-
2018 GT2 AWS
JB4 map 1/BMS intakes/MBRP cat back
Eibach pro-kit springs/sway bars
HP+ pads F&R
1/8" total toe in front
1/8" total toe out rear
Hot garbage AS tires

 

[RM7]

But then I have to have a set of tires at all times in my garage, which is something I am trying to avoid. I did this with the Z (winter/summer setup) and it was actually a huge PITA. Especially for only 2 track days a year

It’s kind of hard to take this all seriously if you are going to compromise on the most important part.

 

[Rev_Night]

If you don't have a lot of track experience I would suggest investing in more seat time and less mods to the car. The most important nut in the car is behind the wheel.

You do bring up an excellent point. I'm not comfortable in the slightest with these paddle shifter, in fact I despise them. They will never be a true manual, and they remind me of little kids who think they are a badass by saying 'heck' but don't actually have the balls to say 'hell'. As a result, I just stuck with the auto the whole time at the track.

Was I wrong to do this? Is there performance to be had in using these shifters?

 

[GreenGSX]

You do bring up an excellent point. I'm not comfortable in the slightest with these paddle shifter, in fact I despise them. They will never be a true manual, and they remind me of little kids who think they are a badass by saying 'heck' but don't actually have the balls to say 'hell'. As a result, I just stuck with the auto the whole time at the track.

Was I wrong to do this? Is there performance to be had in using these shifters?

Leaving it in Auto is the problem. Put the car in Sport mode so it will hold the gear you select and get into 3rd gear and just go.

I've found that on the track I spend almost 90% of the time in 3rd gear and I only have to shift up to 4-5 on the long straights. So although I have had moments when the transmission was doing some wacky things it wasn't really an issue with the car it was more an issue of me doing something stupid like, leaving it in comfort mode, coasting after messing up on track and not noticing the car decided to go back to D, and not understanding a super hot car was trying to save itself. I suspect that with more seat time in the Stinger you'll get that sorted out like I did and the transmission won't be much of an issue anymore.

 

[GreenGSX]

It’s kind of hard to take this all seriously if you are going to compromise on the most important part.

The most important part is being on track and learning how to drive. All the parts, mods, tires enhance that experience but I wouldn't let a set of crappy tires keep me off the track.

 

[stoopid]

Well I live in hot and humid Virginia. Track days will be in Spring/Fall, but the pavement does get hot, and the car isnt exactly under shade between sessions

Sorry didn't know what "NOVA" meant, thought it was short for Nova Scotia (Canada).

Do you *really* need good all seasons? The few times it might snow (might) isn't really worth swapping tires, and not worth limiting your enjoyment of the car for inferior all season grip. The Pilot all season are okayish when cold, not like rock so definitely do-able during the Virginia winters. If you get a heavy storm you probably don't want to be on the roads in your area anyway, and unless you're an on call doctor IMO there's little reason to be in a bad winter storm.

 

[Rev_Night]

Lol ok, even if I do get a set of summers, what would you recommend? PS4s? P Zeros? Cont. ExtremeContact Force?

And will stock rims work? Do I want 18s or 19s?

 

[Rev_Night]

Leaving it in Auto is the problem. Put the car in Sport mode so it will hold the gear you select and get into 3rd gear and just go.

I've found that on the track I spend almost 90% of the time in 3rd gear and I only have to shift up to 4-5 on the long straights. So although I have had moments when the transmission was doing some wacky things it wasn't really an issue with the car it was more an issue of me doing something stupid like, leaving it in comfort mode, coasting after messing up on track and not noticing the car decided to go back to D, and not understanding a super hot car was trying to save itself. I suspect that with more seat time in the Stinger you'll get that sorted out like I did and the transmission won't be much of an issue anymore.

I left the car in Sport mode and never once touched the pedal shifters, so it was in auto the whole time. The one and only major issue that arose was the track control. When I entered a carousel, sometimes the car would think it was turning over, so it basically killed power. It was like I was fully braking with no response from the throttle.

So you are saying that, when tracking, I should use the shifters? I guess I could get familiar with them on my own time first.