3.3TT Questions about alignment and headlight readjustment after lowering your Stinger

[Thrashmetl]

I have a Stinger GT2 I plan to lower on either ARK or Eibach springs in a few months. I’m a bit confused on the alignment necessary after the fact and, to be honest, I know absolutely nothing about alignments. Should any alignment shop be able to do this, or should I take it somewhere that has experience with aligning dropped cars? Do they just return it to factory specs, or do they need to take something else into consideration since it’s dropped so the tires don’t wear unevenly?

Also, I know the headlights will need to be readjusted if I go with the Eibach’s and I essentially know how to make the adjustments, but what is unclear is where they should be aimed? Do you have to shoot them up against a wall before the drop and mark the wall, then aim them based on that after the drop? Or is there a better way?

Related question. Since the ARK springs are an even .75” drop front and back do the headlights still need to be adjusted?

 

[nhcowboy28]

Mine were already too low before dropping. So was absolutely necessary. But it’s your call. Can you see when driving at night. I couldn’t.

Yes, after lowering you need alignment (not just to get the tires from wearing too much, it to get the handling where it is factory spec.

As far as how to adjust headlights...

I pulled back as far on my level garage as possible. Measured then center of my headlight from the ground. Taped the same measurement on the wall with tape.

Adjust so top of beam hit the tape line.

Drove around. Came back and adjusted as needed.

Every car is a bit unique.

 

[Thrashmetl]

Mine were already too low before dropping. So was absolutely necessary. But it’s your call. Can you see when driving at night. I couldn’t.

Yes, after lowering you need alignment (not just to get the tires from wearing too much, it to get the handling where it is factory spec.

As far as how to adjust headlights...

I pulled back as far on my level garage as possible. Measured then center of my headlight from the ground. Taped the same measurement on the wall with tape.

Adjust so top of beam hit the tape line.

Drove around. Came back and adjusted as needed.

Every car is a bit unique.

The question wasn’t so much will I need an alignment, I definitely will, but is it as simple as returning the alignment to Kia specs? Or do other special considerations need to be taken into account when aligning since the car is dropped?

 

[Ozstung]

The factory alignment specs could not be met when my car was lowered on Eibach springs. The guy who did lower the car lied about doing a wheel alignment and I drove around with a mad camber for a while.

Got it as close as possible now from a local guy but the tyres are still going to wear on the inside edges on the back tyres.

 

[Dochidalgo]

Got it as close as possible now from a local guy but the tyres are still going to wear on the inside edges on the back tyres.

Negative camber yet.....

 

[Thrashmetl]

The factory alignment specs could not be met when my car was lowered on Eibach springs. The guy who did lower the car lied about doing a wheel alignment and I drove around with a mad camber for a while.

Got it as close as possible now from a local guy but the tyres are still going to wear on the inside edges on the back tyres.

Does this seem to be the case with everyone on here?

 

[Dochidalgo]

In my case, yes.
I had to redo the previous alignment (negative camber and a little bit toe in not corrected) in another Kia dealer located 400 km far from I live....even with an appointment my car was the 45th Kia car online. After 4 hours and less than half the gas tank, the alignment was well done and they do not apply the Kia alignment specs, that's why took 4 hours and spent half gas tank. They did not let me pass to the work area.

 

[Ozstung]

I have inside tyre wear due to the time I had excess camber, and as dochidalgo said so was the toe.

 

[Thrashmetl]

I have inside tyre wear due to the time I had excess camber, and as dochidalgo said so was the toe.

So with the Eibach’s there’s nothing you can do about it? I assume you guys are running 20” wheels, would the situation possibly be different with the stock 19” wheels?

 

[Dochidalgo]

My car has the OEM 19" wheels....

 

[SKStinger]

I’m not getting any inner edge wear on my tires post Eibachs/alignment. The key is to go to an independent shop qualified in aligning lowered cars, not the dealership. The dealer will only align the car to the Kia tolerances but won’t account for the aftermarket suspension.

You don’t want the car set at the Kia tolerances because the suspension has changed.

The camber won’t be adjustable up front so get them to set the toe as close to zero as possible. For the rear, the camber is adjustable so they positively adjusted it as far as possible. Reduce the toe to as close to zero as possible.

Ideally you want your total toe under 0.4. This will save your tires.

 

[Thrashmetl]

I’m not getting any inner edge wear on my tires post Eibachs/alignment. The key is to go to an independent shop qualified in aligning lowered cars, not the dealership. The dealer will only align the car to the Kia tolerances but won’t account for the aftermarket suspension.

You don’t want the car set at the Kia tolerances because the suspension has changed.

The camber won’t be adjustable up front so get them to set the toe as close to zero as possible. For the rear, the camber is adjustable so they positively adjusted it as far as possible. Reduce the toe to as close to zero as possible.

Ideally you want your total toe under 0.4. This will save your tires.

Perfect, thanks.

 

[SKStinger]

Perfect, thanks.

Np. If I can find my alignment sheet I’ll post it for ya.

 

[Thrashmetl]

Np. If I can find my alignment sheet I’ll post it for ya.

That would be great.

 

[Ozstung]

Mine are stock 19" and I went to a Suspension specialist second time around. Their adjustments as explained to me were as accurate as possible.

Here's what they achieved:

 

[Manaz]

The before settings were certainly all over the shop!

I wonder how long until camber-adjustable free-market parts start appearing for the front suspension...

 

[SKStinger]

Here is mine.

 

[SKStinger]

Mine are stock 19" and I went to a Suspension specialist second time around. Their adjustments as explained to me were as accurate as possible.

Here's what they achieved:View attachment 25114

Those specs are pretty close to mine. The Toe is a little higher. By my math, converting the mm to degrees, it's just under 0.5 degrees total toe. A bit high but as long as you aren't getting inner tire wear, should be fine.

 

[bal]

I have a Stinger GT2 I plan to lower on either ARK or Eibach springs in a few months. I’m a bit confused on the alignment necessary after the fact and, to be honest, I know absolutely nothing about alignments. Should any alignment shop be able to do this, or should I take it somewhere that has experience with aligning dropped cars? Do they just return it to factory specs, or do they need to take something else into consideration since it’s dropped so the tires don’t wear unevenly?

Also, I know the headlights will need to be readjusted if I go with the Eibach’s and I essentially know how to make the adjustments, but what is unclear is where they should be aimed? Do you have to shoot them up against a wall before the drop and mark the wall, then aim them based on that after the drop? Or is there a better way?

Related question. Since the ARK springs are an even .75” drop front and back do the headlights still need to be adjusted?

After installing the Eibach springs and eventually replacing the whole suspension with Ark DT-P, lowered about .5" lower than the Eibach springs, I was still in perfect alignment after each modification. This is on RWD, and 20" aftermarket wheels (sizes in my signature, I did need 8mm wheel spacers on the fronts to prevent the inside of the wheels from rubbing the Ark DT-P coilover adjustment collar. Not saying you shouldn't get an alignment done if necessary, but just letting you know if was not necessary on my vehicle. Try finding a shop that specializes in alignments, most of them will check alignment for free.

For adjusting the headlights, mark their current position 20' away against a wall before doing the lowering springs, then after it's lowered, adjust back to that same point on the wall.

Note: The Left / Right adjustment on the headlights are opposite from the Driver / Passenger side. The picture included is from the passenger side.

 

[me&stinger]

To lower or not to lower.

I was thinking about doing a coilover system kit but having to adjust the headlights and possibly an alignment (although both are good ideas for safety) there's more work involved than I thought. I'm a simplest so I was thinking simple. My mistake.