PLEASE HELP - Front Strut Removal

StingerT303

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I am trying to remove the front struts to install my lowering springs (rears already done, rear sway done).

The strut doesn't have two bolts at the bottom to undo like most other cars I have worked on. Instead, the bottom of the strut slides down a sleeve into place and must be lifted out to be removed. The height of the strut prevents it from being lifted high enough to be removed that way. Also, the shape of the wheel well doesn't allow the strut to be tilted out and removed that way.

I am at a complete loss. Whatever amount of money I saved by doing this myself wasn't worth it, and I have done plenty of wrenching and have all the tools I could need.

If you know how to deal with this, please reply, or better yet, call me. 303-912-8187. I'll be in the garage banging my head against the wall.

Please hold back all the "Thats why I dont do suspension work at home" comments... This is like one of those impossible puzzles with the two nails bent around each other.
 
Ive been there before...i did a bit of research for you and this is what i found on another forum from a member that installed lowering springs at home:

"Just installed the Eibachs on my RWD. Rear install was a breeze, the front was a difficult job. The front struts are press fitted to the hub, so to fully detach them you need to remove the whole front brake assembly and hub. Took almost 4 hours to do the whole job."

Sorry to break that news to you but hope it helps you out.
 
Give this video a shot too.

 
Huge thanks goes out to the people who gave me a ring to help out.

The front tie rod and both control arms need to be taken off before the shock can be slid out of the sleeve it sits in. If you get that far, it helps to have something to pry apart the sleeve that the strut slides into to release the tension. The video above helps. I searched Youtube prior to doing the install and didn't see it. Even if I had, he doesn't go into much detail on what a PITA the front is. Back really isn't too bad. The rear sway bar was a bit difficult with one bolt VERY hard to reach, even with air tools it was tough. I did all of this solo, aside from a friends help for about an hour (which I sorely needed). If you do try this, there are some parts that will require 2 people (supporting the knuckle after tie rod, control arms, and strut have been removed). It took me about 13 hours with a lunch break.

All said and done, I would never do this again. Even if someone paid me. No way. Take it to a shop.

Again, thanks to those who helped me out. What a great community of Stinger owners!!!
 
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