GT2 Wireing Harness Wire Remoal

Anden L Schmitt

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Anyone know how to individually remove a wire from the wiring harness, I'd like to not have to cut a wire in order to get a soldering sleeve over a wire.

I installed the DRLs and a friend I talked to said to strip a portion of the wire of the shielding in order to get the T tap on, I realize now that i made a mistake and would like to take a soldering sleeve and place it over each wire where I did that and than T tap in another location without stripping the shielding this time, for sheer piece of mind. If anyone knows how to remove individual wires and than replace them back into the harness once I get the sleeve on please let me know.
 
Depends on the harness. I haven't looked at them very closely, so, *in general*, here are the steps.
Deutsch pins go out through the connector - that is, you push the wire *into* the connector to remove the pin. That's the only type that does that. All the others pull out like you would expect. I haven't seen any Deutsch connectors on this car, just reference info.


Unplug the connector, look at the pins. If there's a plastic block that's a different color than the connector, it may need to come out. Those are locking blocks that prevent the locking tang from releasing. Usually these blocks pull out fairly easily.
Look at the pin. There's the main body of the pin, then there will be some sort of very small slot. There's a locking tang behind that slot. You need something very small - you can get pin removal kits online if you want, but a jeweler's or eyeglasses screwdriver tends to work for most types - to push into that slot to push the tang towards the body of the pin. Push the wire forward a little to get the tang off the plastic, wedge the tang against the body of the pin, pull the wire out.
Make sure the tang is bent back up before reassembly. Push the pin back in, make sure it stays retained.

IIRC, they did bundle the wires quite a bit, so you might be in for a fair bit of time unwrapping everything to get your wires free.


You can also just wrap some electrical tape around the wire. It'll be fine.


Yeah, no need to strip the insulation. At least if you use a decent tap, that's properly sized, and make sure it connected well. The common taps that have the wires parallel to each other, and rely on a pinch on both wires, are trash. I generally force the pinch manually, then use the body of the connector just to protect it. Don't use the body of the connector to make the pinch, as sometimes the wire will just bunch up inside the body and not get forced onto the pincher correctly.
 
Depends on the harness. I haven't looked at them very closely, so, *in general*, here are the steps.
Deutsch pins go out through the connector - that is, you push the wire *into* the connector to remove the pin. That's the only type that does that. All the others pull out like you would expect. I haven't seen any Deutsch connectors on this car, just reference info.


Unplug the connector, look at the pins. If there's a plastic block that's a different color than the connector, it may need to come out. Those are locking blocks that prevent the locking tang from releasing. Usually these blocks pull out fairly easily.
Look at the pin. There's the main body of the pin, then there will be some sort of very small slot. There's a locking tang behind that slot. You need something very small - you can get pin removal kits online if you want, but a jeweler's or eyeglasses screwdriver tends to work for most types - to push into that slot to push the tang towards the body of the pin. Push the wire forward a little to get the tang off the plastic, wedge the tang against the body of the pin, pull the wire out.
Make sure the tang is bent back up before reassembly. Push the pin back in, make sure it stays retained.

IIRC, they did bundle the wires quite a bit, so you might be in for a fair bit of time unwrapping everything to get your wires free.


You can also just wrap some electrical tape around the wire. It'll be fine.


Yeah, no need to strip the insulation. At least if you use a decent tap, that's properly sized, and make sure it connected well. The common taps that have the wires parallel to each other, and rely on a pinch on both wires, are trash. I generally force the pinch manually, then use the body of the connector just to protect it. Don't use the body of the connector to make the pinch, as sometimes the wire will just bunch up inside the body and not get forced onto the pincher correctly.
I'm worried about damaged wiring that may reduce continuity or worse electrical fire.
 
Wrapping with tape will certainly protect from fire. You'd be surprised how they "protect" the service entry wires to your house.
Reduced continuity shouldn't be a problem unless you cut a notable number of the strands.
 
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