Hey! I see you! Please take two seconds to sign up! We'd love to have you as a member of our Kia Stinger club. You have nothing to lose and so much to gain... :)

DIY: ARK Performance GT-F Lowering Springs Installation Guide

Discussion in 'Kia Stinger How To's and Do It Yourself' started by TEAM ARK, Oct 11, 2018.

  1. TEAM ARK

    TEAM ARK United States Member Authorized Vendor

    42
    29
    18
    Location:
    Ontario, California
    • Useful Useful x 3
    • Like Like x 2
    • Informative Informative x 2
  2. TEAM ARK

    TEAM ARK United States Member Authorized Vendor

    42
    29
    18
    Location:
    Ontario, California
    • Useful Useful x 4
    • Informative Informative x 2
    • Like Like x 1
  3. ZyroXZ2

    ZyroXZ2 United States Stinger Enthusiast

    673
    225
    43
    Will it be offensive that I refer to this guide to install Eibachs? :p
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. JDM_Man

    JDM_Man Canada Active Member

    292
    58
    28
    Location:
    Ottawa
    I thought the springs were orange, are they gold?
     
  5. TEAM ARK

    TEAM ARK United States Member Authorized Vendor

    42
    29
    18
    Location:
    Ontario, California
    • Like Like x 2
  6. Behnendl

    Behnendl United States New Member

    2
    0
    1
    Location:
    New Albany, OH
    I got mine in the mail this week and I am having them installed on Monday. I am so excited. Do you have a time estimate for the install?
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2018
  7. Waynerm002

    Waynerm002 United States 1000 Posts Club!

    2,480
    769
    118
    Location:
    DC Metro Area
    Interested in hearing how this changes the ride of the car and how much drop it has after they settle. Post some photos of the finished product, please.
     
  8. SKStinger

    SKStinger Canada Stinger Enthusiast

    938
    273
    68
    Location:
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    I followed this guide to install Eibach springs on the rear. I plan to do the same for the fronts in a few days and will report back.

    It's a great guide, thorough and easy to follow. A couple tips when doing the rears that differ from the guide and will save you time:

    1. You don't need to remove the lower control arm covers.
    2. The ABS sensor doesn't need to be completely removed, just unclipped and positioned out of the way.

    The rears are an easy job even without a lift. It took me 1 hour to do the drivers side and only 30 minutes for the passenger side and this was being very meticulous.
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2018
    • Creative Creative x 1
  9. XZe

    XZe United States Member

    This is my stinger with GT-F springs
     

    Attached Files:

    • Like Like x 1
  10. Waynerm002

    Waynerm002 United States 1000 Posts Club!

    2,480
    769
    118
    Location:
    DC Metro Area
    Has the springs dropped anymore since you have had them? I'm a little concerned with the 1"+ drop on the AWD and it causing issues with the ECS over time.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2018
  11. JDM_Man

    JDM_Man Canada Active Member

    292
    58
    28
    Location:
    Ottawa
    Factory suspension sags more then 1 inch after some time and ECS still works fine. Hell in my old A4 the factory suspension sagged 2+ inches and ECS still worked perfectly.

    I don't think it will be an issue as ECS is designed to operate during all times, not just when the car is level (think cornering or in a skid, its not level).
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  12. SKStinger

    SKStinger Canada Stinger Enthusiast

    938
    273
    68
    Location:
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Completely agree. My 2010 Audi A4 Avant looks lowered the stock suspension has sagged so much and no issues with ECS.

    I also had my 2009 A5 lowered on KW Height Adjustable Springs for 100,000 km's and had 0 issues. That car sat lower than the Stinger will with the Eibach pro kit springs.
     
  13. Waynerm002

    Waynerm002 United States 1000 Posts Club!

    2,480
    769
    118
    Location:
    DC Metro Area
    I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing, I'm referencing the Electronically Controlled Shocks, not Electronic Stability Control which is what you guys seem to be alluding to. Correct me if I'm wrong.
     
  14. JDM_Man

    JDM_Man Canada Active Member

    292
    58
    28
    Location:
    Ottawa
    Yes that was what I was talking about, derp! lol.

    But back to the same conclusion, factory suspension will sag just as much if not MORE then 1 inch after some time, and this is factored into shocks when they are built.

    However I did ask ARK about this a while ago and they advised it won't cause an issue since its the MOST TAME lowering spring. It only lowers the car 1 inch for AWD (.75 for RWD) vs up to 1.75 inches for AWD (other manufacturers).

    If you DID have any doubts though this would be the spring to get.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  15. SKStinger

    SKStinger Canada Stinger Enthusiast

    938
    273
    68
    Location:
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    I was thinking you meant the shocks. Both my Audi's had Audi Drive Select which allows you to control the firmness of the suspension.
     
  16. Waynerm002

    Waynerm002 United States 1000 Posts Club!

    2,480
    769
    118
    Location:
    DC Metro Area
    Ok, yep, thanks for that clarification. I think KIA should have given us 3 choices for the suspension instead of 2, with the 3rd being a more buttoned down feel. I'm thinking of getting the springs since the sway bar have been on back order and lowering the height a bit should help with the lean as well.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  17. JDM_Man

    JDM_Man Canada Active Member

    292
    58
    28
    Location:
    Ottawa
    You could also grab some Burger Motorsports strut brace replacements (they should be stiffer) and there are some options for chassis stiffing bars.
     
  18. SKStinger

    SKStinger Canada Stinger Enthusiast

    938
    273
    68
    Location:
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    I followed this guide to install the front driver's side Eibach spring yesterday. It is still a time consuming job. It took me 3 hours to do the one side. I'm hoping the passenger side will take substantially less now that I know the routine.

    Some advice/observations:

    1. Apply painters tape around the fender edge to protect the paint from scratches. The clearance is very tight when removing and installing the strut assembly.

    2. Make sure you have a compact set of short spring compressors like the ones pictured as there isn't a lot of spring to grab. Mine are long and bulky and I had to use spacers to shorten them. The compressors can't extend into the strut mount area otherwise you won't have room to drop the assembly. Compressing the spring for removal and then refitting the assembly is by far the most difficult and time consuming part.

    You do need to compress the spring to remove the assembly. The guide says "fit snugly" but my experience was that the spring needs to be compressed in order to have the clearance to remove the assembly.

    3. Contrary to the guide, I had to use a large hammer to dislodge the outer tie rod. From my experience, this is the common way to break them loose. Moving the hub left and right had no impact.

    4. The shock spun when I removed and also when I tightened the top hat. So a torx socket is needed to tighten it while holding the nut with a 19mm flat wrench.

    5. The vehicle pictured in this guide is a RWD Stinger. The AWD has an added drive shaft on the front axle. It does drop and flex when you lower the hub assembly but it does add some resistance when reinstalling the strut assembly as you have to clear the fender and then tilt the hub back to its vertical position which is where the resistance from the drive shaft can be annoying.

    6. Ensure you have the top hat in its final tightened position before attempting to reinstall the assembly into the vehicle. I measured the amount of thread exposed in comparison to the other side of the vehicle to verify that I was tight enough to fit it back on the car. If it's not, you won't have enough clearance and risk scratching your fender.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2018
    • Like Like x 2
  19. SKStinger

    SKStinger Canada Stinger Enthusiast

    938
    273
    68
    Location:
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Passenger side front took me 2 hours. Total time: 6.5 hours. 5 hours to install the front and 1.5 hours for the rear.

    To add to the above post about the front:

    1. When reinstalling the strut assembly it helps to put a spring compressor on to give yourself some more clearance under the wheel arch.

    2. The torx socket you need to hold the shock while tightening the top hat is a T10.

    The torque specs I used were:
    - Outer 19mm tie rod castle nut = 35 to 40 ft/lbs
    - Lower 17mm strut bolt = 80 ft/lbs
    - Top 17mm strut bolt (allen key bolt) = 80 ft/lbs
    - 14mm strut mount nuts = 45 to 50 ft/lbs
    - 19mm top hat nut = 30 to 40 ft/lbs. I was left with a 1/2 inch of thread exposed above the nut which is where the nut was prior to removal.
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2018
  20. MekstingerGT

    MekstingerGT United States Active Member

    228
    100
    43
    Bump. Are the install the same for the awd? All the installs directions I've seen are for the rwd.
     
Draft saved Draft deleted

Share This Page

Users found this page by searching for:

  1. kia stinger lowering springs

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.