Dallas-Fort Worth Tuning
- Thread starter Stoicc
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oddball
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Looks around, there's less than a half dozen companies that tune the Stinger - period.
You can get a piggyback from one of the three vendors.
You can get an ECU tune from one of the ... three? maybe four? vendors that offer that service.
That's it, in the entire US. This car is an uncommon one. ECU tune requires cracking open the ECU and hacking the ECU yourself (no plug-in tuning) which is a real PITA, so only really dedicated shops are going to do that work. Piggybacks aren't really tunable by a shop - just pick your configuration and go.
You can get a piggyback from one of the three vendors.
You can get an ECU tune from one of the ... three? maybe four? vendors that offer that service.
That's it, in the entire US. This car is an uncommon one. ECU tune requires cracking open the ECU and hacking the ECU yourself (no plug-in tuning) which is a real PITA, so only really dedicated shops are going to do that work. Piggybacks aren't really tunable by a shop - just pick your configuration and go.
Stoicc
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I have JB4 and still need to install it but I won't need to dyno if I hook up the JB4 correct? The JB4 will in essence "trick" my ecu into what it outputs where an actual dyno tune will properly change the engine output. Am I understanding this correctly?
oddball
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Kind of? But not really?
The JB4 tunes are pre-set, and are safe assuming you follow the rules (plugs, right type of gas, meth injection if running higher tunes, etc). Map 1 and Map 2 are generally safe and easy - anything higher requires at least some attention.
ECU tunes are the same - prepackaged. Just follow the tuner's instructions on the rest of the car (plugs, right type of gas, meth injection if needed, etc).
The way the two methods go about increasing power output is a little different, but they both change power output.
A piggyback lies about the MAP and TMAP pressures to fool the ECU into thinking there's less pressure than there really is (so it doesn't hit its pre-set "Oh Shit!" threshold) BUT still understands how much air is in there so it commands the right amount of fuel.
An ECU tune will change the actual tables in the ECU so the ECU now permits higher boost levels.
Lots of details are different, and the impacts can be different if you're doing serious racing with the car. The ECU tune could, theoretically, also let the ECU have a better idea about true output, so then the traction control works better. No idea if Tork has gotten that far into the ECU or not - we're talking black magic stuff here.
A ""Dyno"" tune on modern cars really starts with a pre-packaged tune, then the tuner charges you money to tweak a few things and maybe find another 1%-5% power - depending on your specific engine and its quirks, compared to the baseline configuration that's safe for everyone. e.g., here we're at low elevation, pretty humid, and can get 93 octane, so you can run more timing and get a bit more power. That specific tune might be a bad idea in, say, Denver. Plus you get the pretty graph.
Dyno tunes are also useful on wacky builds - like my buddy's supercharged 4.6 in a Town Car. There aren't many of those, so it required some time on the dyno for the tuner to mash up Town Car, Marauder and Mustang ECU tables into something that would work.
The JB4 tunes are pre-set, and are safe assuming you follow the rules (plugs, right type of gas, meth injection if running higher tunes, etc). Map 1 and Map 2 are generally safe and easy - anything higher requires at least some attention.
ECU tunes are the same - prepackaged. Just follow the tuner's instructions on the rest of the car (plugs, right type of gas, meth injection if needed, etc).
The way the two methods go about increasing power output is a little different, but they both change power output.
A piggyback lies about the MAP and TMAP pressures to fool the ECU into thinking there's less pressure than there really is (so it doesn't hit its pre-set "Oh Shit!" threshold) BUT still understands how much air is in there so it commands the right amount of fuel.
An ECU tune will change the actual tables in the ECU so the ECU now permits higher boost levels.
Lots of details are different, and the impacts can be different if you're doing serious racing with the car. The ECU tune could, theoretically, also let the ECU have a better idea about true output, so then the traction control works better. No idea if Tork has gotten that far into the ECU or not - we're talking black magic stuff here.
A ""Dyno"" tune on modern cars really starts with a pre-packaged tune, then the tuner charges you money to tweak a few things and maybe find another 1%-5% power - depending on your specific engine and its quirks, compared to the baseline configuration that's safe for everyone. e.g., here we're at low elevation, pretty humid, and can get 93 octane, so you can run more timing and get a bit more power. That specific tune might be a bad idea in, say, Denver. Plus you get the pretty graph.
Dyno tunes are also useful on wacky builds - like my buddy's supercharged 4.6 in a Town Car. There aren't many of those, so it required some time on the dyno for the tuner to mash up Town Car, Marauder and Mustang ECU tables into something that would work.
