kia stinger store

Custom Remote Keyfob (Vinyl)

Random386

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Be warned. I ended up typing a lot. Sorry


Hey guys, so in my previous post, I talked about possibly making a custom key fob. However, in the process of brainstorming, I noticed the actual shell of the keyfob couldn't be sanded down and remolded to my material of choice. The thickness of the entire shell is less than the edge of a credit card. Thus I gave up on that and thought of another method—sanding n vinyl. Sanding isn't required; however, this key was beaten up, and I wanted to remove the stitch-like ridges.

Walk-through/tut is under this. In the end, I put the material list n cost.

1. Open the keyfob as if you are switching your battery. Pull the metal key out. Use the back end of your house key and twist between the two plastic tabs. Afterward, put a fingernail under the board n then remove it. Afterward, pop out the black plastic and the white rubber sleeve. Put everything aside other than the two shell parts.

2. I sanded down my keyfob, so I masked the metal half. Cover it all as it makes it much easier. I used, I believe, either 220 or 240 dry sandpaper. I will warn you I barely touched the metal, and it scratched, so mask it good. After masking, sand it till the ridges are flush. There will be small holes, but the vinyl will still lay flush.

3. Remove the masking and wipe down the shells with your choice of liquid till clean. Alcohol wipes work well as they dry instantly. After this, remask the metal; however, this time, you have to be perfect. Get the edge of the masking tape to the metal part. Make it so you can see a slight shine/glare of the metal on the edge.

4. Vinyl time. Mine was from cheetah vinyl. Imo it was not as sticky as I would have liked it to be. Use your choice of vinyl. Cut a piece that's slightly bigger than the shell and that you can grab the edge as if you are pinching it on all corners.

5. The half shell that stands alone is the easiest. Remove the entire backing and lay the sticky side up on a table. Place your key in the center. Push down. Afterward, pick it up and do the left n right edges. The top n bottom is tricky. Let the edges that are stuck down on the left n right unsticked, then pull n stretch the material over the edges of the shell than do the top. You will have to rework these a bit to not end up with any creases as long as the vinyl on the outside is flat, your good—Tuck the vinyl tags inside the keyfob as you get each side done to make it easier. Once the entire shell is covered wrinkle, bubble-free, then it's time to cut the vinyl. Crease the vinyl to any inside lips, then use a sharp pointy knife and scar riding those lips. Afterward, grab the tag and pull. It will come off. Ripping risks you may take more off than wanted n it lifting. Do all sides n the small excess tuck inside. It doesn't have to be pretty. Once the key is closed, the excess will be crushed by the other half and stay tight, which helps to prevent lifting.

The metal half. Same steps. However, it's more complicated. You will have to stretch the corners perfectly on all edges to come out clean. Especially the top part. If it creases or wrinkles, lift n stretch, n tuck into the shell. Once it looks good, tuck it n don't touch it. The right/metal side. Stretch the vinyl and wrap it into the inside of the shell, n tuck in slightly. Do the bottom right edge and get a clean curve. Mess with the right side till it's perfect. Tuck all vinyl inside. Use your fingernail and crease/push the vinyl into the seam where the metal meets the plastic—now cutting. Grab a sharp and thin knife. I used a pocket knife. Ride the metal edge and cut the vinyl. Pull-on the vinyl and remove the excess/tag. Use your fingernail and tuck it in. This cut must be all in one. Max two.
Do the straight edge, then reposition to holding the knife's blade and do the edge turning the key as you go for the lock button. Afterward, it's easy sailing crease inside anywhere n cut all excess tags. Remove the masking. Take a sewing needle n prick a hole from the inside. There is a small pin-sized circle that flashes red when you click a button. I personally didn't cut out the kia logo bc I don't have a sharp knife that's small enough. You would ride the edge of the plastic and cut it. If you want to cover it up, layer masking tape in it and vinyl over it to make flush

5. Tuck all the vinyl in on both parts again, push it inside, stretching it. Hold the metal shell buttons facing down (make sure buttons are flush to the metal). Put the white casing in. Then black rectangle plastic. Then the green board. Battery sid3 facing up black buttons facing the metal buttons. It may take a few tries.

6. Snap close. You are done my friend.

This took me 5ish hours. And 10-13ish tries. I kept getting poor results on the edges, over-cutting, small rips when creasing with my nail, etc. If you stretch, tuck, n cut most excess n retuck. It will only take you max 45mins.

If you want to go the extra mile, you could polish the metal n Buff. Mask the vinyl off tho. Or do it before vinyl. Sand, the shell, then polish the metal. Another option is electric plating—no clue how to do such.

Material List

220/240 Dry Sandpaper 5-8$

Vinyl 5$, I bought it at a local shop (12 inches by 12 Inch sheet to practice n test.) I recommend going this route and getting a high gloss carbon fiber or chrome of your choice. It may cost you slightly more, but it's better than paying 100s for a roll. The minimum get a 12x12 as you will mess up

Masking tape 5$

Total 15$


The link above is what I was trying to replicate. This white vinyl was just a test. I will be wrapping my other key carbon fiber or light green chrome when I can acquire some.

Just to be clear, I have three keys to my car. (2 programmed). I bought an extra on eBay for a mere 40 bucks shipped, so I could sand my battered key n see the ridgeless look.

20210609_122105.jpg 20210609_122841.jpg
 
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Random386

Member
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I wrapped mine in carbon fiber, but skipped the sanding... (I did on my last car as well and it held up for many years)
(not a great pic)
Looks cool. Matte Finnish yes? Any chance you could post more photos? I more leaning towards a high gloss carbon fiber. And turning the white key to light green chrome. With the metal wrapped back.

When I first saw the custom keyfobs from Master Carbon I thought it was a brand new outer shell attached. But I realized how that was impossible when I finally went to do such. Rather realized it's just vinyl. Brain fart ik.

Any chance you mind tell me which companies vinyl your using? I'm thinking about 3m or metro for the next keyfob.
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