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Ark GT-F Springs Review!

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes, Wheels, Tires Discussion' started by ZyroXZ2, Jun 3, 2019.

  1. ZyroXZ2

    ZyroXZ2 United States Stinger Enthusiast

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    There aren't a whole lot of people rolling around with these, and seeing as how I'd have to trim bump stops to install the Eibachs AND how I didn't want a more aggressive drop (scraping, anyone?), I went with pretty much one of the only other few options outside of coilovers. I immediately want to give @NICK_KHAR a shoutout for getting me these springs priced as a bundle with the Eibach sways. Great guy!

    If you've ever installed your own springs before, then there's really nothing I can tell you that you don't already know. If you haven't, though, there are some shortcuts I took that saved time in comparison to Ark's official spring installation guide. I'll follow my shortcut tips with some pics, one of which is a very specific set of spring compressors that allowed me to save time. The fronts only took me about 2.5 hours total (1.5 hours on the first one, 1 hour on the second) because of this shortcut. I'll add some additional installation tips at the end for those of you who wish to try this yourself who may not be used to spring installations.

    - The spring compressors I use have a fixed end which is specifically useful for situations like this on short springs with few coils. Unlike the Ark installation guide that shows affixing the spring compressors to the bottom of the spring perch (risky!) and a coil, I affixed it to the only two coils exposed.
    - This allowed me to not only compress the spring more than enough to clear the fender without issue, but once tilted out of the fender, I simply lifted the spring right off.
    - Installing the spring compressors on the Ark spring, I simply slipped it right back on over the strut and onto the perch.

    The above saved me tons of trouble/time: I didn't have to hammer the strut out of the pinch; I didn't have to remove the strut mount top plate which means I didn't have to mark/realign it when installing the spring; and the strut mount top bolt is a lot more manageable when the suspension is hanging some load on it (less likely to spin). And now for some installation pics:

    Front Spring Installed
    [​IMG]

    Rear Spring Installed
    [​IMG]

    Spring Compressors Used
    [​IMG]

    Spring Compressors Mounted
    [​IMG]

    So after a total of about 4.5 hours of work and about an additional 30 minutes of taking about 1 degree of negative camber out of the back wheels, it really turned out to be all pretty standard procedure. But what does the car look like, now? I just installed them, and want to wait a week before I take pics in case there's anymore settling and comment on the ride.

    So stay tuned for final words on the springs! Heeeee :laugh: (that's me knowing this post didn't quite end where you wanted it to, sorry for the disappointment!)

    UPDATE:

    I am definitely not disappointed in the ride. "Like stock" is an understatement: it corners with more poise than stock while riding just like it. I attribute this to bringing the center of gravity lower. While I haven't gone to a track to see how this translates with any before and after or have a slalom course to run, this really is how the car should be and feel from the factory. Do note, though, that I also have Eibach swaybars on firm, and that could be a factor overall, but the change between post swaybars and post Ark springs is that the car has more balance. If you're going for springs to enhance the feel of the car while not in any way compromising its stock ride quality, this is THE spring to buy.

    As for the drop, I want to make a few notes: as mentioned in the comments below, some people believe there is reverse rake on the Eibachs on RWD, but aren't looking close enough to notice that like most cars, the Stinger has a higher cut front fender. I mention this because if you look at my before and after pics, you'll notice that the rear fender gap was always smaller than the front, but that from the factory, the size of the gaps makes this difference harder to notice. Shrinking the gap aggressively like with Eibachs will make the different much, much easier to notice. Despite that, the car is level because the drop from the springs is even front-to-back (on RWD).

    And finally: since it seems a few people are adamant about pics after installation, I went outside to take a pic. You'll see just how subtle the drop is. However, it's important to note that my before pic was on a near full tank of gas while my after pic is on near empty. So for people measuring with pixels, that makes a difference, lol

    Before Springs, but nearly a full tank of gas...
    After Springs, but an empty tank of gas...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The verdict? To me, this is the best lowering spring to buy because there is zero compromise in any form of any sort, and the mild (but still noticeable, especially when looking at the car from certain angles or the back in particular) drop is how this car should have looked to begin with.

    Updated Pics
    Ark GT-F Springs Review!


    INSTALLATION TIPS FOR LONE DIYERS:

    - The outer tie rod on the driver's side for me was stuck like the car had 60k+ miles (it doesn't). After some PB blaster, I had to instead grab the steering wheel and do full lock rotations until I heard the outer tie rod literally "pop" loose. This took about 15 minutes all on its own. The passenger side came right out, strangely enough...
    - Support the front knuckle with some sort of small jack before undoing the strut mount top bolt (the one in the trunk works fine for this, too!). This lets you ease the strut down and gauge how much you have to further compress your springs to clear the fender.
    - Use the jack to jack the knuckle up when reinstalling so you don't need a helping hand to direct the strut back into the hole in the top plate.
    - The rear outer arm bolt may be held tightly in place due to alignment specs on your car. Simply loosen the camber bolt nut and rotate the cam bolt and you'll see the arm move. This will give you all the wiggle room you need to knock that bolt out of the hole. Leave the camber bolt loose until you're ready to reinstall the outer bolt to make shoving it back through the bushing just as easy. Just don't forget where the cam bolt was positioned before tightening it back up.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 10, 2019
    • Like Like x 2
  2. Tobstertx3

    Tobstertx3 United States Stinger Enthusiast Texas Stinger Swarm

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    Interested to see the pics.
     
  3. MrSmoofy

    MrSmoofy United States Stinger Enthusiast Sustaining Member +

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    Besides pictures 2 questions.

    1. Are you AWD or RWD?
    2. If RWD do these sit more level then the Eibach's on an RWD car?
     
  4. ZyroXZ2

    ZyroXZ2 United States Stinger Enthusiast

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    They don't seem to be settling much anymore. I didn't replace the spring mounts, and a lot of the settling with springs is the rubber compressing until it reaches the maximum (or more clearly, the permanent depression you see left on the mounts by the old springs when removing them). Since I basically sat these springs right into where the old ones settled, I think I'm already there, lol...

    Having said that, construction in our parking lot just started... right near where I took the first picture where I had space to stand back from the side... So I have no idea when I'll get another pic, yet :cry:

    RWD. I'm going to add this comment to my finalized review, but people have to remember that the fenders themselves are not even height: almost all cars have a higher front fender than rear fender to clear for steering while going over speed bumps, etc. Trucks and SUVs don't have to worry about this, and you'll find their fenders are usually cut evenly.

    In other words, an "even" drop will exacerbate this even though the car's actually level. Many people don't notice it at first because of the size of the factory fenderwell gap to the tire (not just the Stinger), but if you measure or look more closely, you'll notice that the front fender is almost always higher than the rear. Having said that, the car remains level, and I have to say, so far it's the perfect drop height: it looks like it should have from the factory to be honest!

    You'll have to wait for pics, of course :p
     
  5. MrSmoofy

    MrSmoofy United States Stinger Enthusiast Sustaining Member +

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    I understand what you're saying but based on the pictures I've seen of the Eibach springs on RWD cars reverse rake to me which I don't like otherwise I would be considering the Eibach springs.
     
  6. ZyroXZ2

    ZyroXZ2 United States Stinger Enthusiast

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    I guess what I mean is: any springs that offer identical F/R drop will cause the appearance of reverse rake because the rear fender is lower cut to begin with...
     
  7. nhcowboy28

    nhcowboy28 United States 1000 Posts Club!

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    And what he is asking has nothin lg to do with the fender. Everyone is looking at the side skirts. And on RWD using the Eibach pro kit (which is made for awd with added weight in the front), the car looks higher in the front.
     
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  8. robz32

    robz32 United States 2500 Posts Club! Authorized Vendor Texas Stinger Swarm

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  9. ZyroXZ2

    ZyroXZ2 United States Stinger Enthusiast

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    I invite you to provide pics of a RWD on Eibach springs. The sideskirt is going to be level (of course, assuming the person doesn't have 200 lbs of crap/subs in the back). The fender gap in the rear will be smaller, though, giving the visual trickery of reverse rake. This is a common visual fallacy and why a lot of springs started lowering the front more than the rear because consumers would be all "ewww the back looks like it's sagging!" without realizing their car itself is actually level, lol

    Yeeeaaaaa, I think they're not only fixing the parking spots borked by tree roots, but repaving the whole parking lot, so EXACT position pics comparing before and after are going to take longer than I anticipated. I didn't know they'd be doing construction until I came into work today with nowhere to park and cars all over the place because 80% of us park in the area currently under construction o_O

    EDIT: Typo. I should do that thing I learned in elementary school: proofreading.
     
  10. Robs

    Robs Singapore Active Member

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    RWD on Eibach springs. As mentioned, rear fenders do drop lower over the wheel arch/well, giving the appearance of the rear being lower.
    7335B6E7-454D-429E-8863-5B97950B3EC7.jpeg
     
  11. Waynerm002

    Waynerm002 United States 1000 Posts Club!

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    Pics, pics, pics! It doesn't have to be the same spot as the OEM look, just some that shows the look of it before and now. This is the springs I have been thinking about for my AWD car.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  12. SKStinger

    SKStinger Canada Stinger Enthusiast

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    Nice install. I can attest to your comment about using the slim spring compressors as mine are bulky and I spent a lot of time getting them fitted.

    This is a slick install when the bump stops don’t require trimming. Otherwise you’ll still be forced to pull out the strut.

    Any reason why you created a new thread and didn’t just add this content to the Ark spring diy?
     
  13. ZyroXZ2

    ZyroXZ2 United States Stinger Enthusiast

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    To curb your expectation, I did say in my above post that it looks the way it should have from the factory, lol... If you're thinking significant drop like Eibachs or coilovers, that's not the case at all. That's why it's perfect to me: it's enough to notice, but not enough to tell it's aftermarket :sneaky:

    This isn't a DIY, it's a product review, that's why, lol (an unfinished one, though...)
     
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  14. ZyroXZ2

    ZyroXZ2 United States Stinger Enthusiast

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    UPDATE:

    I am definitely not disappointed in the ride. "Like stock" is an understatement: it corners with more poise than stock while riding just like it. I attribute this to bringing the center of gravity lower. While I haven't gone to a track to see how this translates with any before and after or have a slalom course to run, this really is how the car should be and feel from the factory. Do note, though, that I also have Eibach swaybars on firm, and that could be a factor overall, but the change between post swaybars and post Ark springs is that the car has more balance. If you're going for springs to enhance the feel of the car while not in any way compromising its stock ride quality, this is THE spring to buy.

    As for the drop, I want to make a few notes: as mentioned in the comments below, some people believe there is reverse rake on the Eibachs on RWD, but aren't looking close enough to notice that like most cars, the Stinger has a higher cut front fender. I mention this because if you look at my before and after pics, you'll notice that the rear fender gap was always smaller than the front, but that from the factory, the size of the gaps makes this difference harder to notice. Shrinking the gap aggressively like with Eibachs will make the different much, much easier to notice. Despite that, the car is level because the drop from the springs is even front-to-back (on RWD).

    And finally: since it seems a few people are adamant about pics after installation, I went outside to take a pic. You'll see just how subtle the drop is. However, it's important to note that my before pic was on a near full tank of gas while my after pic is on near empty. So for people measuring with pixels, that makes a difference, lol

    Before Springs, but nearly a full tank of gas...
    After Springs, but an empty tank of gas...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The verdict? To me, this is the best lowering spring to buy because there is zero compromise in any form of any sort, and the mild (but still noticeable, especially when looking at the car from certain angles or the back in particular) drop is how this car should have looked to begin with.
     
    • Like Like x 3
    • Agree Agree x 1
  15. MrSmoofy

    MrSmoofy United States Stinger Enthusiast Sustaining Member +

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    Now I'll ask did you happen to tape measure the difference :) If there is one I'm not seeing it. It's ok if thre isn't if the ride/cornering is improved without lowering at all.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  16. ZyroXZ2

    ZyroXZ2 United States Stinger Enthusiast

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    I did actually visually compare the springs off the car, and the Ark's are, indeed, about .75" shorter. It could very well be identical spring rates at a shorter cut/coil, and the lower center of gravity is what's doing the trick.

    Also, if you can't tell it's lower from the pics I posted, I'm worried on a number of levels :eek::laugh:
     
  17. Waynerm002

    Waynerm002 United States 1000 Posts Club!

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    I can see the difference in the photos, I like that subtle drop. Thanks for that! I think I might go your route on the springs and maybe rear sway.
     
  18. CoconutRob

    CoconutRob United States Stinger Enthusiast

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    I like it also, thanks for the pics
     
  19. robz32

    robz32 United States 2500 Posts Club! Authorized Vendor Texas Stinger Swarm

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  20. ZyroXZ2

    ZyroXZ2 United States Stinger Enthusiast

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    It doesn't seem to be settling anymore (as aforementioned). The more I look at it, the more I not only notice the drop, but notice how it's "just right". It really is how this car should have come from the factory, but I get how federal regulations about road safety and engineering "extreme" testing/safety factors likely affected it (potholes, road conditions, maximum speed bump height, etc.). The next time I get gas and fill it up (which is soon, I'm running real close to fumes, now), I'll take one more pic for y'all.

    Basically, the car doesn't look lowered, it just looks fitted. Me happy. :D

    These springs are definitely NOT for people who want it to be "lowered" and look sportier by being closer to the ground, though. :whistle:
     
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