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2019 Stinger battery failure

D.J.

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Yes you can with a jump, you can jump the car from under the bonnet (hood for Americans) there is a positive terminal on the left hand side looking at the engine and use the strut brace bolt as a negative terminal.....
the is an actual ground post designed specifically for this (no need to fiddle with rad support brace bolt).

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vipeboy2000

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JSolo

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True.. easier to open the hood and connect jumpers than to crawl back there.

What if you have no jump source... I used to have a 12V car battery on the tender in the garage for just such uses, but not any more. ;)
 

vipeboy2000

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True.. easier to open the hood and connect jumpers than to crawl back there.

What if you have no jump source... I used to have a 12V car battery on the tender in the garage for just such uses, but not any more. ;)
then i guess, thankfully with the hatch you do what they did in the video, crawl into the back and use the emergency release handle on the hatch and remove the battery that way, 1664313314011.png
 
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Landshark

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i will just add that you should not jump-start a modern car - too many computers and electronics in them that can get damaged by a power surge.

everyone should have a lithium ion rechargeable jump pack in their car. for less than $100, you can get 5 or more jumps before they need recharged, and even power your cell phone in a pinch.

also good for opening Stinger hatches with dead batteries :D
 

PxbVic

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i will just add that you should not jump-start a modern car - too many computers and electronics in them that can get damaged by a power surge.

everyone should have a lithium ion rechargeable jump pack in their car. for less than $100, you can get 5 or more jumps before they need recharged, and even power your cell phone in a pinch.

also good for opening Stinger hatches with dead batteries :D
Yeah those small jump starters are great except over here in Australia, you won't get a good one for under $350.00 everything is so cheap in the States...

The Stinger can be jump started via the terminals under the bonnet (hood)... It's the recommended way...
 

Landshark

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Stinger GT SS

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Yeah those small jump starters are great except over here in Australia, you won't get a good one for under $350.00 everything is so cheap in the States...

The Stinger can be jump started via the terminals under the bonnet (hood)... It's the recommended way...
This one looks pretty good & currently on specia.
 
I've got a Noco Boost GB70 jump starter pack. Works really well, even on my diesel Jeep. You're right about the price down here though PxbVic.

Has anyone considered, or fitted a lithium battery to the Stinger? There are ones available now that are suitable for engine starting, versus the deep cycle ones. Massive weight saving.
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Stinger GT SS

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I've got a Noco Boost GB70 jump starter pack. Works really well, even on my diesel Jeep. You're right about the price down here though PxbVic.

Has anyone considered, or fitted a lithium battery to the Stinger? There are ones available now that are suitable for engine starting, versus the deep cycle ones. Massive weight saving.
I looked at lithium battery but couldn’t justify the price at over $1K can almost buy 3 standard batterie for that.
Yes I know they are much lighter, std battery is 22.8kgs but at least it’s in the rear & adds some weight stability to the car lol.
 

D.J.

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I've got a Noco Boost GB70 jump starter pack. Works really well, even on my diesel Jeep. You're right about the price down here though PxbVic.

Has anyone considered, or fitted a lithium battery to the Stinger? There are ones available now that are suitable for engine starting, versus the deep cycle ones. Massive weight saving.
I have a friend with 3 older cars and 1 modern car.... He ALWAYS has a dead battery to be boosted, on his older infrequently driven cars. (condo life)
He uses a "Noco GB50" - and it is probably the best/most reliable brand on the market - unfortunately one of the more expensive too.

Your GB70 is basically the same but better/larger. It's very good.
My 2nd hand experience does suggest the GB50 is more than adequate for multiple starts between charges, GB70 is just better!
 

Landshark

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I have a friend with 3 older cars and 1 modern car.... He ALWAYS has a dead battery to be boosted, on his older infrequently driven cars. (condo life)
He uses a "Noco GB50" - and it is probably the best/most reliable brand on the market - unfortunately one of the more expensive too.

i have a 4 year old no-name brand jump pack that works great ... only jumped a car once or twice with it, but its fantastic for my riding mower (would otherwise have to remove battery from it in the shed at the far end of my yard, carry it to my garage for charging, then reinstall )
 

PxbVic

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I've got a Noco Boost GB70 jump starter pack. Works really well, even on my diesel Jeep. You're right about the price down here though PxbVic.

Has anyone considered, or fitted a lithium battery to the Stinger? There are ones available now that are suitable for engine starting, versus the deep cycle ones. Massive weight saving.
As the current battery is still serviceable, I'm actually looking at lithium for my car, but at the moment I'm research life expectancy of lithium batteries, can get one about the $550 to $650 price range...
 

PxbVic

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This one looks pretty good & currently on specia.
Yeah for now I've picked up a similar ebay unit, as once the battery is replaced I shouldn't need it... They are cheap, but buyer be ware, you get what you pay for, I'm happy to take a rick on a cheaper unit... Thanks for the link..

Yeah cheap arse me went even cheaper than that :D:
 
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PxbVic

Active Member
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Melbourne Australia
I have a friend with 3 older cars and 1 modern car.... He ALWAYS has a dead battery to be boosted, on his older infrequently driven cars. (condo life)
He uses a "Noco GB50" - and it is probably the best/most reliable brand on the market - unfortunately one of the more expensive too.

Your GB70 is basically the same but better/larger. It's very good.
My 2nd hand experience does suggest the GB50 is more than adequate for multiple starts between charges, GB70 is just better!
Yeah Noco is great stuff, I have a 3500 smart charger from Noco, it's brilliant and is keeping the car trickle charged until I sort out a battery...
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PxbVic

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There's something about all this electrical issues that just doesn't add up to me, while I am a motor mechanic, I've been out of the trade for 30 years, I'm pretty good with electrics, but electronic cars, no so smart I'll admit...

1: If the battery is over 10.5 volts, the car will start, any other car that would be too low to start.
2: At 9.5 volts all the electrics still work, lights, console, central locking, windows, sunroof, tail gate, everything but the car wont start, and the electrics go a bit haywire (wipers going off dash lit up like a Christmas tree etc), but they do work...
3: Alternator is okay getting 14.5 volts from that all day long...
4: The batter is only holding 11.5 volts, so it's dying that's for sure...

I've never seen a car behave like this with a failing battery...

I'm starting to wonder if all the electronic issues I've had have been because of a dud battery?
The car has only traveled 25000 KM in 3.5 years thanks to covid, so I'm just thinking out loud here, maybe the battery was crap from new, or 12 months old when all the consoles started to fail... Guess I'll never know for sure...
 

Landshark

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There's something about all this electrical issues that just doesn't add up to me, while I am a motor mechanic, I've been out of the trade for 30 years, I'm pretty good with electrics, but electronic cars, no so smart I'll admit...

1: If the battery is over 10.5 volts, the car will start, any other car that would be too low to start.
2: At 9.5 volts all the electrics still work, lights, console, central locking, windows, sunroof, tail gate, everything but the car wont start, and the electrics go a bit haywire (wipers going off dash lit up like a Christmas tree etc), but they do work...
3: Alternator is okay getting 14.5 volts from that all day long...
4: The batter is only holding 11.5 volts, so it's dying that's for sure...

I've never seen a car behave like this with a failing battery...

I'm starting to wonder if all the electronic issues I've had have been because of a dud battery?
The car has only traveled 25000 KM in 3.5 years thanks to covid, so I'm just thinking out loud here, maybe the battery was crap from new, or 12 months old when all the consoles started to fail... Guess I'll never know for sure...

can't speak for the Stinger, but my last car was fully loaded with electronic doo-dads, and i heard a lot of stories where some really crazy electrical gremlins and glitches would happen when the battery started going bad ...
 

Cruiser17

Newish Member
Hi All,

My 2019 Stinger GT is in the wars again, it's had 4 centre consoles replaced, wiring to the electric park brakes fail and repaired and now the battery is dying and is only 3.5 years old...

Load testing the battery says it's only capable of 480CCA instead of the rated 740CCA.

Is anyone else having constant electrical problems?

The dealer wont replace the battery, and have quoted $1600 for it to be replaced with a genuine Kia battery, they also state the battery is not under 7 years warranty but only 2 years...

Any ideas on how I can get this car fixed?

FWIW,
My MY21 Stinger (Feb 2021) battery was not holding its charge properly.
Detected by noting that the dashcam would shutdown at voltage below 12V. (Should not get that low).
Second issue showing is that the ECO mode would never go into "coasting" mode, as this does not happen until the battery is fully charged.

Had videos, emails etc.
It took a serious email to Kia (& copied the dealer) direct to have the battery replaced finally. After 8 months of complaining.

Yes, there is only a 2 year warranty in the battery.
 
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